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| Flasking Equipment & Technique Discuss, 1st flasks - are these OK? at Orchid Propagation forum; My first deflasking was messy too but the roots are ... |

08-29-2007, 08:48 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Favorite Orchid(s): Phalaenopsis
I grow my orchids: Under Lights.
Location: Palo Alto, California
Posts: 34
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My first deflasking was messy too but the roots are more important than neatness !!! You can always untangle them when they are bigger. Great Job !!
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08-29-2007, 09:01 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 208
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Thanks for the confidence boosters, it really helps. I was kind of nervous about the last one.
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08-29-2007, 10:32 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Favorite Orchid(s): All types
I grow my orchids: In a Greenhouse.
Location: So. Misery
Posts: 4,006
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They look good to me  Gin
__________________
Never put off until tomorrow what you can avoid all together.
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08-29-2007, 10:56 PM
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Junior Junkie
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Favorite Orchid(s): All of them!
I grow my orchids: Under Lights.
Location: Michigan
Posts: 654
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such cute little babies!!!! Good luck and keep us updated.
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-Sara
Addicted and loving it. 
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08-31-2007, 08:39 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 208
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I would like to note that the use of the plastic bag tents, or other methods frequently described are not necessary or desirable with the agar left on the seedlings. They seem not to really dry out or wilt according to the typical descriptions with the moisture and sugar avalable in the media.
The plastic bags are not recommended because they encouraged the growth of a sugar fungus that became a potential threat to the seedlings. I hope that it was just a wimpy zygomycete. Removing the bags permanently just this morning has caused it to degenerate rapidly, and has no apparent ill effect on the plants.
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10-10-2007, 09:36 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Buhl Idaho
Posts: 920
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I think it is currently recommended to remove as much of the agar as possible to avoid the fungus problem you encountered as well as allowing the roots to grow more freely. You also found out the humidity tent is more trouble than it is worth and causes more problems than advantages. Best to allow the plants to adjust to free air as soon as they can.
__________________
Steven
In Flower/Bud:
Phal Aurelia Franklin peloric, Paph Magic Lantern, Paph philippinense, Phal Leopard Prince x Brother Danseuse
and a few others too.
Low Bud/spike?
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10-10-2007, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoOrchid
I think it is currently recommended to remove as much of the agar as possible to avoid the fungus problem you encountered as well as allowing the roots to grow more freely. You also found out the humidity tent is more trouble than it is worth and causes more problems than advantages. Best to allow the plants to adjust to free air as soon as they can.
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Yes, I would have to say now that I would try something different in the future. The paraphals did well, and only one died. The others only have a few hanging on, and I will be lucky if any of the Neofinetia survive.
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10-11-2007, 08:57 PM
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
I grow my orchids: In a Greenhouse.
Posts: 4
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Orchid flask usually do not ship well... the gelling agents usually get busted up as you see. The plants do need to be reflasked. If you have mycology training the sterile aspect of this should present no problem. The MS is a great formula for orchids and will give these a boost. I would add banana puree and charcoal if your MS formula lacks these. Replate your seedlings with plenty of room and let grow a while and pot out into greenhouse in Spring (in Northern Hemisphere this is March through May).
I like to use 6 inch pots filled half full of finely chopped NZ sphagnum moss that has been hydrated with boiling water and cooled. In the US I always use an initial drench of a methyl thiophanate fungicide (trade names in US are Clearys 3336, Fungo, Benomyl, etc.). I mist the plants midmorning and mid afternoon and keep the moss moist, but not wet, for several days, then cut back to midmorning misting for another week or so. By this time the plants cuticle will have developed enough thickness to not dessicate. The pots filled half way with the moist sphagnum provide a protected collar that allows the seedlings to grow with vigour. I also fertilize weekly once the seedlings are hardened off.
LWP
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