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Wilted, Burned, Dry, Wrinkled....HELP!!!!

This is a discussion on Wilted, Burned, Dry, Wrinkled....HELP!!!! within the General Information forums, part of the Frequently Asked Questions category; Hello all, I just discovered your corner of the Web, and it's delightful. Unfortunately, I ...

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  1. #1
    orchidflyer is offline Junior Member
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    Unhappy Wilted, Burned, Dry, Wrinkled....HELP!!!!

    Hello all,

    I just discovered your corner of the Web, and it's delightful. Unfortunately, I found it in dire circumstances.
    I just got an import shipment of 15 Phal. gibbosa and 10 Phal. parishi, plus a bunch of Cleistomas, Gastrochilus', and Chiloschistas, amongst a bunch of other sun loving plants. The sun loving plants arrived just fine, but the shade plants listed above arrived DRIED OUT, CRISPY, WILTED, BURNED, and the Phal's, of which EVERY SINGLE ONE WAS IN SPIKE, has wilted spikes and/or dead spikes/flowers.
    It appears to me that the person that shipped them to me from Thailand picked them up from his contact source in Thailand, held them for several days prior to shipping them to me, and in that time period, they were set in the sun at some point, perhaps to dry out the wood, so as to lighten them up for shipping, to lessen the cost of shipping. However, the shade plants wouldn't last an HOUR in the hot Thai sun after growing in shade, without beginning to wilt, dry and burn.

    So my question is...now what? What can I do to MINIMIZE the damage? Should I cut off all the flower spikes and WATER, WATER, WATER? Should I leave them on so as to lessen the places bacteria can enter? Should I just wait and see? Is there anything proactive I can do to try to help them out, and perk them up?

    APHIS (Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service--part of USDA) did a test on the wood planks that they're mounted on. Technically, wood is not an approved growing medium, but since they aren't deriving sustinence, but only structure from the wood, they made an exception. However, the wood had only a 12 percent water content at the WETTEST reading, which is VERY VERY dry.

    Any suggestions to bring back DRY, wilted and partly burned phals and the other species is greatly appreciated!

    At least I got all the dendrob's through fairly happily! They all can do without water and with lots of sun!

  2. #2
    Gin's Avatar
    Gin
    Gin is offline Senior Member
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    I am very sorry for the trouble . I would remove the spikes seal cut with a tiny bit of vaseline , reduces moisture loss and protects from bacteria . Place the plants in a shaded humid area , can be misted but be sure they are dry before nighttime ... beware of rot ... I have heard of giving dried plants a soak in water with disolved sugar added to it (not sure of the amount ) also wrapping them in wet newspaper for a few hours . Hope you can save them nice choice of plants Gin

  3. #3
    Orchidilerium's Avatar
    Orchidilerium is offline I do the best impersonation of myself!
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    whenever I recieve or make a "french fried phal" I immediately repot it into semi hydro, Flush it with dilute physan in the morning, then wash through and fill with water later that day. This seems to help the leaves bounce back, usually in under a week. The burned spots are burned for life, so I cut the leaf removing all burned area, sealing with vaseline as gin said... Reason for this being that the plant needs water, but rot is an ominous threat. So flushing in semi hydro replenishes the water content, yet making it more difficult for rot to ensue.

  4. #4
    Nanci is offline Newbie & Luv'n it
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    Lightbulb

    Not to sound stupid but what is "dilute physan" and what does the term "semi hydro" mean??

    Thanks,
    Nanci

  5. #5
    Diane's Avatar
    Diane is offline Can't Re-Member
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    Physan is a frequently used broad range disinfectant, fungicide, virucide and algaecide. Dilute Physan mean to use it in a much lower strength than the directions call for. (When in doubt, use less!)

    Semi-Hydro is a method of growing plants. You have probably heard of Hydroponics - where plants are grown with no soil or media of any kind, just with highly fortified water. Semi-Hydro is done with the plants potted up using special media that is like small little balls of clay. You water the plants very frequently, because they media hold very little water. Often there is a small amount of water left in a 'saucer' under the pot and the roots will grow down to the water. It's a pretty big change from regular growing because of the special set up.

    Just to thoroughly confuse you, I would follow Gin's advice - but would unpot each burned plant (assuming they were potted) and check their roots for damage. Then I would create a cool humid spot for them and mist as needed.

  6. #6
    orchidflyer is offline Junior Member
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    Thanks for the replys, everyone, but unfortunately, all the plants are mounted, so they can't be unmounted and repotted. I got APHIS to let them through mounted on wood, which is usually a NO-NO, but they allowed it this time. So I got a bunch of VERY established mounted plants, with VERY established roots. It's the roots that i'm counting on to save the plants, since some of them have either lost or will lose all their leaves. But they all have GREAT roots which, when wet, will photosynthesize, and, I hope, allow the plant to generate enough energy to survive long enough to put out another leaf here in the springtime.

    What do you think about fertilizer?

    Also, how should I handle Cleistomas that have been put through the ringer? They have brown spots and marks all over the leaves, from burn looking marks to what I would normally call rot looking marks, from tips to spots on the leaves. They're very hard to diagnose, but I'm going on what the other plants went through...temperature exteremes and DRYNESS for a week. Any suggestions?

    Thanks!!

    At least a lot of the plants are looking great, though all of them are showing signs of stress from the relocation, and today, I went out into the greenhouse and found it to be 117!!!!! YIKES!!!! I had to open all the vents/doors, and immediately start the mister to bring it down by 40 degrees within 15 minutes. We'll see what happens from THAT. Luckily, I don't think it was that was for long, and most things were wet, with a lot of air movement, and also had a fair bit of shade.

    Thanks again all!

    Jeff

  7. #7
    Nanci is offline Newbie & Luv'n it
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    Talking Thanks

    Diane, thanks for the information. I'm really new to orchids and appreciate all of everyone's patients with my questions.

    Nanci

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