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This is a discussion on Paph Roth cultivation. within the General Orchid Culture forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; I have done some research into the cultivation of these but i didn,t take a ...
I have done some research into the cultivation of these but i didn,t take a lot of notice on how to bloom them as i thought it would be years away for my plants.
Now that i have a reasonably large plant i am slightly confused about the cool period that is often mentioned.
My plan was to give the plant cool nights(50f or slightly lower) for about a month in October & then increase the light(to about 3000 fc) late winter(say the end of January early Feb.
How does that sound ?
Also does a paph Roth need to have a secondary growth to be able to flower ?
Let me preface by saying I've never had a roths big enough to bloom, and therefore haven't had the opportunity to fail to bloom one. But from what I hear, I think 55F for 3-4 weeks would be sufficient to bloom it. I wouldn't go to 50 and definitely not below that. (That's parvi territory).
I've also heard from a single source that some extra calcium (crushed oyster shell) may help. Ditto with higher light in the winter. In his book, Paphiopedilum's Grower Manual, Birk notes that a couple years of winter rests will help plants bloom.
Antec has also mentioned that the 'Charles E' clone is a recalcitrant bloomer and passes that on to its various sib crosses. Presumably the progeny from other clones are easier to bloom. (Not sure which cross yours is from).
My personal take is that the winter chill is by far the most important part of blooming these things. Most coryopedilums bloom on a growth and a start that's 1/3 to 1/2 grown. I suppose some roths may bloom on the single growth, but the ones I've seen are at minimum a growth and a start.