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Nobile dend. questions...

This is a discussion on Nobile dend. questions... within the General Orchid Culture forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; So I just bought my first nobile-type dendrobium, and I hear they're pretty much completely ...

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  1. #1
    sand_tiger86's Avatar
    sand_tiger86 is offline Senior Member
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    Default Nobile dend. questions...

    So I just bought my first nobile-type dendrobium, and I hear they're pretty much completely different than typical dendrobiums. I was hesistant on ever buying one because I think the bare canes are just, well...ugly. But this one, with its beautiful orange flowers, changed my mind! Anyhow, do all nobiles lose their leaves? This ones flowers are on canes with leaves. I hear you're supposed to basically ignore the hell out of them come winter. Right? I don't want to kill it, it's so unique! I'm just used to my easy, warm loving, high-light orchids haha

  2. #2
    Ron-NY is offline rothaholic
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    this is cultural info taken from Baker and Baker on Nobile Dends:

    Cultural Recommendations

    LIGHT: 3500-4500 fc. The heavy summer cloud cover indicates that some shading is needed from spring through autumn, but light should be as high as the plant can tolerate, short of burning the leaves. Growers report that D. nobile tolerates full sun when grown outdoors if acclimated early in spring and if air movement is excellent. Growers indicate that light is high enough when leaves are slightly yellow.

    TEMPERATURES: Summer days average 79-82F (26-28C), and nights average 66-67F (19-20C), with a diurnal range of 12-16F (7-9C). Spring is the warmest time of the year. Days average 86-88F (30- 31C), and nights average 54-66F (12-19C), with a diurnal range of 20-33F (11-18C). Growers indicate that plants do well outdoors providing night temperatures are near 50F (10C).

    HUMIDITY: Near 80% in summer, dropping to near 60% in winter.

    WATER: Rainfall is moderate to heavy from late spring through early autumn, but conditions are much drier in winter. Cultivated plants should be kept moist while actively growing, but water should be gradually reduced after new growths mature in autumn.

    FERTILIZER: 1/2 to full strength, applied weekly while plants are actively growing. A high-nitrogen fertilizer is beneficial from spring to midsummer, but a fertilizer high in phosphates should be used in late summer and autumn. W. Neptune, in his 1984 American Orchid Society Bulletin article, reported that he obtains better flowering, more uniform growth, and a minimum of keikis by using a 10-30-20 fertilizer mixed at 1 tsp. per gal. (1.3 ml per liter) once a week from spring through midsummer. In late summer and autumn, he switches to a 0-44-0 fertilizer mixed at the same dilution rate. Water and fertilizer are then withheld through winter until the following spring.

    REST PERIOD: Winter days average 76-82F (25-28C), and nights average 48-49F (9-10C), with a diurnal range of 27-33F (15-18C). Overnight lows are below 50F (10C) for 3 months. Plants should be able to tolerate temperatures a few degrees below freezing for short periods, but such extremes should be avoided in cultivation. During very cold weather, a plant's chance of surviving with minimal damage is better if it is dry when temperatures are low. Growers report that the plants from this habitat do tolerate light frost. In the habitat, rainfall averages are very low for 4-5 months in winter, but during the early part of the season the high relative humidity indicates that additional moisture is available from frequent fog, mist and heavy deposits of dew. Growers sometimes recommend eliminating water in winter, but plants are healthiest if for most of the winter they are allowed to become somewhat dry between waterings but do not remain dry for extended periods. For 1-2 months in late winter, however, conditions are clear, warm, and dry with humidity so low that even the moisture from morning dew is uncommon. Plants should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings and remain dry longer during this time. Occasional early morning mistings between waterings may help keep the plants from becoming too dry. Fertilizer should be greatly reduced or eliminated until water is increased in spring. A cool, dry rest is essential for cultivated plants and should be continued until new growth starts in spring. In the habitat, light is highest in winter.

    GROWING MEDIA: Plants may be mounted on cork or tree-fern slabs if humidity is high and plants are watered at least once daily in summer. Large plants are best potted in an open, fast draining media. Growers indicate that the type of medium is not critical but that using an undersized clay pot, which is barely large enough to hold the roots and allow room for 2 year's growth, is very important. Repotting should be avoided until the medium starts to break down. When necessary, repotting is best done when new root growth starts or as soon after flowering as possible.

  3. #3
    smartie2000's Avatar
    smartie2000 is offline Senior Member
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    certain hybrids don't loose as many leaves. They are bred for their easier care and flowering.

  4. #4
    pavel's Avatar
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    Some of the newer hybrids do not need a cooling period or much in the way of dormancy at all.

  5. #5
    ischel1's Avatar
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    Fantastic info Ron. Thanks for posting it.

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