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Paph won't bloom

This is a discussion on Paph won't bloom within the General Orchid Culture forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; I've had this orchid (Paphiopedilum Ruby Mist x Pacific Magic) for over a year and ...

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  1. #1
    PAGrower is offline Senior Member
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    Default Paph won't bloom

    I've had this orchid (Paphiopedilum Ruby Mist x Pacific Magic) for over a year and it will not rebloom, despite plenty of healthy-looking leaves. I fertilize "weekly, weakly" with a 19 31 17 formula. I've been growing for about 3 years and have managed to rebloom most of my collection, so I think my growing conditions are generally pretty good. Right now, this orchid is sitting next to an odontonia which is spiking, so I know it's getting plenty of light. Thanks in advance for any advice.

  2. #2
    Paphraguy is offline Former User
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    I grow mainly the large multifloral Paphs and Phrags and don't grow the ones that you have. If it's not blooming, I would give it some more light.

    Hopefully, others can jump in and share their culture.

  3. #3
    LJA's Avatar
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    LJA is offline OrchidTalk Tech Admin
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    PAGrower, welcome to the forums!

    I'm not familiar with that specific cross so can only give you a general idea of what may be wrong.

    My first thought was not enough light, but you said the Odontonia beside this Paph was spiking.

    The only other thing I can think of is temperature drop. Many Paphs need a good 20 degree drop between daytime and night temperatures for at least a couple of months to initiate next season's spike. If your Paph is one that requires that and you're growing in a location where temps remain at a steady 70 degrees for example, the plant won't bloom.

    Many home growers overcome their heating systems by placing plants that need temp drops right up on a windowsill in late fall and winter. It's surprising how much cooler a windowsill can be on a winter's night than the room's thermostat might be set at.

    I know it feels like a long time to wait, but you might try that this fall.

    If you're already doing that and the plant still isn't spiking, well, then I'm stumped and will have to defer to someone more familiar with the cross. Anyone else have any ideas?

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    TheEnigmaOfLife is offline Junior Member
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    Also if you need a temp. drop you can put it in your garage at night and if you have a window in the garage, you can leave it in there during the day also. This all assumes you have a garage.

    Good Luck
    Chris

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    PAGrower is offline Senior Member
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    The only other thing I can think of is temperature drop. Many Paphs need a good 20 degree drop between daytime and night temperatures for at least a couple of months to initiate next season's spike. If your Paph is one that requires that and you're growing in a location where temps remain at a steady 70 degrees for example, the plant won't bloom.
    Oops. I have a drafty sun room where I kept most of my cool growers over the winter. The paph spent the winter in a warmer spot -- I goofed. Well, at least I'll know for next year, right? Thanks for the help.

  6. #6
    e.muehlbauer is offline Junior Member
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    This kind of paph doesn not need a temperature drop. If you bought it in bloom, it may be just adjusting to your conditions...a setback from which it will eventually recover. Hybrid paphs have their own minds about flowering...the Maudiae types can bloom twice a year, or they can wait years between blooms. Sometimes they will bloom on all growths, then wait a few years. If it is healthy and growing, it will bloom again....when it wants to. Take care, Eric Muehlbauer

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    PAGrower is offline Senior Member
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    This kind of paph doesn not need a temperature drop. If you bought it in bloom, it may be just adjusting to your conditions...a setback from which it will eventually recover. Hybrid paphs have their own minds about flowering...the Maudiae types can bloom twice a year, or they can wait years between blooms. Sometimes they will bloom on all growths, then wait a few years. If it is healthy and growing, it will bloom again....when it wants to. Take care, Eric Muehlbauer
    It was blooming when I brought it home, and aside from not flowering, it has always been healthy. I may repot it since I've had it over a year. It is currently in bark chips. Should I repot in the same? Thanks for your help.

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    Repotting may be just the thing to "shock" the plant into blooming, since it's apparently not the type that needs a temp drop. You also might try moving it to a location where the light intensity / duration is different from where it's growing now. Reluctant bloomers will often respond to the (small) "stress" of being moved from where they're used to growing by sending up a spike. At least, that's what we've noticed in the greenhouse here: a change of microclimate many times induces bloom.

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    e.muehlbauer is offline Junior Member
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    I forgot to add....a drop in fertilizer (if the newer growths are well along...) may also help.....normally, a low N high P bloom booster is recommended, but recent research is showing what I always expected...the high P is wasted, while the lower N does the trick......Take care, Eric

  10. #10
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    I'm with Eric. It's a Maudiae-type along the vinicolor breeding lines, and the vast majority will bloom whenever the new growth is mature, with or without a substantial temp drop. They also don't need much light to bloom, although more light tends to speed up the growth process (albeit shortening flower life). How is the new growth doing? I don't know what size plant you bought, but from experience I can say that some of the plants are ready to take off on the new growth right after blooming, and others really lag a while before they start growing.

    And repotting a plant that isn't performing up to expectations is one of my favorite pastimes.

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