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Is Paph concolor ok

This is a discussion on Is Paph concolor ok within the General Orchid Culture forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; to try in s/h? If not, would you grow it in fine bark?...

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  1. #1
    Cinderella is offline Senior Member
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    Default Is Paph concolor ok

    to try in s/h? If not, would you grow it in fine bark?

  2. #2
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    I have tried a few brachys in s/h. My experiment has been an astounding failure. All of them, which is perhaps 3-4, have either lost their roots or died altogether. I suspect much of that is due to the temperatures at the root zone, which is really low during the winter. Most brachys are intermediate to warm growers. I'm not saying brachys cannot ever be grown in s/h. I obviously cannot and would never try it again.

    A fine bark or CHC-based mix should work fine for brachys. Keep in mind they like very pure water, keep fertilizer at an absolute minimum, and they should dry out slightly between waterings. Never bone dry because that will increase the relative salt concentration. They require excellent air movement during the heat of summer, as they are prone to basal rot.

    concolor is probably the easiest brachy to grow, and in my estimation has the finest-patterned leaves in the entire paph genus.

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    Cinderella is offline Senior Member
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    Thanks, Jason, glad I asked. When you say keep fertilizer at a minimum, how much do you mean? Lightly fertilize once a month?

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    whatever you use for paphs, cut it in half at least and probably by 3/4. someone once told me, "you need to sneak the fertilizer in". those are words to live by in my book. it's the same for phrag besseae.

    a dilute fertilizing every 2-4 weeks with a fertilizer with micronutrients oughta be plenty to prevent mineral deficiencies.

    a *light* topdressing of crushed oyster shell (from the pet store) once or twice a year may be beneficial.

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    whatever you use for paphs, cut it in half at least and probably by 3/4. someone once told me, "you need to sneak the fertilizer in". those are words to live by in my book. it's the same for phrag besseae.
    My large multi-floral paphs are pretty robust & are fine with my normal fert regime , Phrag Besseae i,m trying on Fish ,Blood & Bone.I,ve read that they,re more tolerant of natural ferts.Time will tell.
    For Paph callosum & Paph venustum i,m using 1/2 my normal strength .I managed to fert burn both of these

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    ah, the big coryopedilums...yes they can take quite a bit of fertilizer, especially when it's bright and warm. i heard that the natural stuff like seaweed, fish meal, manure etc are far less likely to cause root burn. but i can't handle all that stink on the windowsill!

  7. #7
    e.muehlbauer is offline Junior Member
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    I have found that brachy's are far more fertilizer tolerant than normally believed. The ones I have underlights are fertilized with the rest of the paphs, usually 2 out of 3 or 3out of 4 waterings. I use liquid MSU type fertilizer (from First Rays) with a little Pro-tekt added to reduce acidity. The strap leaves get 2 tspns/gal, all other paphs half that amount or slightly less. Brachy's are far less sensitive to fertilizers than phrags, which even under lights get fertilizer (without Pro-tekt) only every 3rd or 4th watering. I have found besseae to be more tolerant than other phrags, although its old growths die as the new ones mature..leaves are spotless though. The problem with brachy's is that they need lots of air at the roots, and can't remain damp for as long as other paphs can. They don't always appreciate repotting the way most paphs do, another quirk. And they are shorter lived than most paphs...but when they die, they die from the top down, not the roots up...for me at least.Take care, Eric Muehlbauer

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