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2 questions - phal roots and chinese cymbidiums

This is a discussion on 2 questions - phal roots and chinese cymbidiums within the General Orchid Culture forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; dear friends, these 2 questions are unrelated: 1) is there a reason why one of ...

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  1. #1
    hohcs is offline Member
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    Default 2 questions - phal roots and chinese cymbidiums

    dear friends,

    these 2 questions are unrelated:

    1) is there a reason why one of my phal is growing lots of roots but no new growth of leaves or spike?

    2) is there anyone into growing chinese cymbidiums?

    would like to hear from you.

    thanks.

    chung shih

  2. #2
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    Hi Chung Shih,

    I'll only attempt to answer the first question. If the phal has been potted or repotted into a pot larger than the root mass, the plant will shift its energy into growing new roots. It will neglect leaf and flower spike development during this period.

    That's why you'll commonly hear, don't over-pot orchids. That means, don't move them into a larger pot than they need. The roots don't want to be smushed in or over-crowded, but assume they want something of a snug fit. Too big a pot and you'll stall on leaves and flowers till new roots start to fill the pot.

    That's the only answer I can think of for question 1. Others may have different thoughts.

    Good luck,
    Julie

  3. #3
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    I,ve had Phals from friends & relatives to get back into bloom.The plants that have recieved less than good light seem to make roots like crazy in my growroom but no spikes or leaves.It takes a couple of months before the plants decide to move on with growing or spiking.

  4. #4
    hohcs is offline Member
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    ah, the light. it must be it. i think it is not getting enough light. i am still not a good judge of light. if i were to use simple lighting for my 6 plants, what would anyone recommend without having to spend a heap on pro grow lights?

    thanks again.

  5. #5
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    I watched the phals I'm growing do pretty much the same thing; roots first, then leaves and roots. Two have spiked since then, their first ones. It may simply be they like to get their feet in the ground first, so to speak [yeah, I know, epiphytes, but 'feet in the air?'] - adapt to new conditions by finding a moisture source, then new vegetative growth. However, I've been told phals seem to make their own rules to an extent, which I also find to be true.

    You will know the light level by the leaf color first; too dark, they need more light. grassy, light greens is what you're looking for. Too much light they will tinge with maroon and yellow; new leaves will be smaller than the previous set.

    fluorescent lights are the least expensive to set up. there are sticky threads with some good info here...do a search, there'll be plenty of posts to read. I'm using Phillips Natural Sunshine bulbs in a wardian case for a few plants, they have all the same light ratings as the high-priced fluorescents marketed as 'grow lights'....

    others here will undoubtedly have more info.....

    p

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by peteMc
    Too much light they will tinge with maroon . . . I'm using Phillips Natural Sunshine bulbs
    p
    I actually believe that a tinge of maroon is a sign the plant is getting the maximum light it can take, and that it's a good thing. I haven't had them turn yellow from too much light; when I did burn a few last spring, they got really, really dark maroon-brown. I grow almost all phals hybrids and a few species now; they've become my favorite (I can finally say that without guilt about all the other pretty orchids) because they do so amazingly well for me. Most of the year, they are under shade cloth right next to and getting the same light as my few remaining dends, oncids, mtdms, not far from the vandas and cymbidiums (hanging around the edge of the shade porch), and they're all happy, growing and spiking. Since late October, though, the phals have been under 4x40 watt Philips Natural Sunshine bulbs. (I left everything else outside to adapt or die, because I just didn't have room inside for all of them.) The seedlings and smaller plants are about 6-8 inches from the lights and the blooming plants are on a shelf about 24" below the lights. Except for my Dtps. Taida Auckland "Taida", because the blooming spike is so tall it won't fit under there. The spike first poked through in August and grew almost entirely outside. Although I'm happy with the Philips Natural Sunshine bulbs (I have a bunch of just out-of-flask phal seedlings that are thriving under them), I wish it was just a tad warmer so I could leave the phals outside year-round.

    Sorry to go on so long, but I have found that my phals just do better when they get way more light than the books say they need.
    Liz

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    I've got to say the same, Liz. My phals are light whores. They're happy, blooming twice a year, throwing up monster roots and leaves. If I believed the books, I'd have them in a much lower light setting, but I figure they know what they want...

    Julie

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    can one get phillips natural sunshine lights from home dept? yes, i put one of my phal in the path of late afternoon sunlight the other day on the west window for 2 days and i start to see noticeable leaf growth which i have not seen for months at where it was placed in semishade.

    i want to set up a plant table by the balcony and grow them in lights since sunlight is so unpreditable here.

    chung shih

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    Quote Originally Posted by hohcs
    can one get phillips natural sunshine lights from home dept?
    That's where I got mine. I think they were under $6 each.
    Liz

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    Thanks Liz and everyone for your help. Indeed the plants are all growing quicker and better and stronger under lights! i got two 40w sunlight thing from phillips and i turn them on in the morning till evening for 12 hours, whether the table is in the sun or not as a supplement.

    looks like the plants like it!!!

    thanks again,
    chung shih

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