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Node Culture ?

This is a discussion on Node Culture ? within the General Orchid Culture forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; Greetings to all!!! A novice here. I saw an interesting article online about Node Culture. ...

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  1. #1
    grewmanner is offline Junior Member
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    Default Node Culture ?

    Greetings to all!!!

    A novice here. I saw an interesting article online about Node Culture. Had anyone tried that or perhaps got other ways to do Node culture?


    Thanks in advance.
    grewmanner

  2. #2
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    Halloamey is offline Senior Member
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    It is fairly easy for my Phaius tankerville. Just cut the flower stalk after the blooms have started wilting. Locate the dormant nodes or eyes, cut atleast an inch away from the node. remove the papery sheath covering the node carefully and then lay the pieces on moist cocopeat, perlite mix, nodes facing the sky. In about a month the nodes sprout both leaves and roots. But it usually will take 3 to 4 years for the new plants to flower.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Halloamey View Post
    It is fairly easy for my Phaius tankerville. Just cut the flower stalk after the blooms have started wilting. Locate the dormant nodes or eyes, cut atleast an inch away from the node. remove the papery sheath covering the node carefully and then lay the pieces on moist cocopeat, perlite mix, nodes facing the sky. In about a month the nodes sprout both leaves and roots. But it usually will take 3 to 4 years for the new plants to flower.
    Quicker than that, in my personal experience. But I wonder if the enquiry is about stem propagations of e.g. Phalaenopsis ( and also Tolumnias) ? It is exactly the same of course, a node, or eye, is encouraged to grow and form a plantlet ; but in these cases it is rather more tricky and usually done on Agar under aseptic conditions, just like seed sowing. But flowering size plants come much more quickly. I have a friend who used to go round orchid shows in UK asking for the old flower spikes of good-looking phallies, which he could do that way. He reckoned flowers within 2 years. He was an experienced seed-sower too - all kitchen table stuff, using a home-made glove box for a "clean room". When he started he said he got one successful result in 10 or 20 tries of stem props, but within a couple of years it was up to 5 in 10 - not doing anything different, just practised expertise.I tried it myself, but I have no lab experience ( my friend was a retired geneticist ) and all I got was mould growing on the agar, and I gave up.

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    Ah yes for Phals it is much quicker as they are monopodials, and can be made to grow throughout the year by giving the right conditions. But for Phaius, since it is a deciduous pseudobulb forming plant, it takes longer for the node plants to grow a big enough pseudobulb to sustain an inflorescence. For the first year there is no bulb, just the leaves, the second year they will form the first p.bulb its the size of a pea. Then the next year the growth as well as the p.bulb is larger. I think there is a way to grow Phal nodes without the aseptic conditions using keiki inducing product from Canada. Its a gel or a cream that you apply to the node and within a few months, it develops into a plantlet.

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    Hey Guys,

    Thanks for the response. Actually I’ve tried the cocopeat thing before yet it failed. Anyhow, I have once again some “sleeping bud” nodes at my disposal and im looking at doing the cocopeat as suggested as well as the node culture in vitro. I will definitely share my things if successful. Wish me luck.

    Garz

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    Hi Garz, for what kind of plant are you trying this culture? If for Phals, then the cocopeat version has a very limited and small success rate.

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    grewmanner is offline Junior Member
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    I'm doing it for Phals and maybe Vanda (cocopeat and vitro). Will PH level for the vitro medium be a factor? coz i'm looking at using a home-made (DIY) medium. Thanks.

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    Yes, Keikipaste it's called I think. I have tried it , but without real success. Maybe it depends on the genes of the plant, since some phals form keikis on the flower buds naturally. It is a hormone paste ( wear rubber gloves when using lest your fingers start growing roots too ! (joke) and I found various moulds grew on the paste, and unnatural lumpy warts on the flower stem - I was of course using the paste on the nodes of the flower stem still part of the growing plant ( which had suffeed crown rot or something). The proper stem prop method cuts the flower stem off, svers a lenth of it containing one node in the middle of the length, seals the ends, disinfects the whole length, and then removes the sheath over the node as the last step. I am great on theory , its just the practice which is a bit ham-fisted.

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    Hi, guys! There is a product called keikipro, you can google it, and it works like a charm. One drop on a node and if the plant is flowering, bang-another spike will start. If in vegetative growth pattern, bang-keikis will form. I've had pretty good luck with this stuff. I've had dormant eyes on catts wake up as well.
    Remo

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