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I'm thinking about potting my Vanda...

This is a discussion on I'm thinking about potting my Vanda... within the General Orchid Culture forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; Right now I'm using the glass vase method, but it still requires constant misting and ...

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  1. #1
    sand_tiger86's Avatar
    sand_tiger86 is offline Senior Member
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    Default I'm thinking about potting my Vanda...

    Right now I'm using the glass vase method, but it still requires constant misting and daily watering...and it looks like the roots are getting burned because of the magnification of light through the glass. I've seen online that several people successfully grow Vandas in pots as long as very loose, course mix is used. What do you guys think? The only concern I have is the root system. I know their roots are feet long when mature...how on earth does that work in a pot? (Yet I still see plenty of pictures of them doing just fine in them)

  2. #2
    espranch is offline Senior Member
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    Sorry that I cannot help you, Kelly. I tried several times to grow them, ( they're both beautiful AND fragrant ) but, I couldn't keep them inside the greenhouse, because it did not get enough light. Outside was a problem, also. Enough light, but way too low of humidity. And, I'm NOT going to be watering/misting them twice a day! Betty

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    sand_tiger86's Avatar
    sand_tiger86 is offline Senior Member
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    Yeah, they are a royal pain in the ass. But I'm determined to make something of one. I won't stop trying with it! I use a humidifier in the back room and it gets pretty humid, with the fan blowing at all times.

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    You dont have to use organic media in pot, try stryofoam/ polysterene chunks or sponge. Its only the water retention of moss or peat rich grade bark that needs cautuion. Large grade bark with charcoal, lava rock, pebbles, glass nuggets, wine corks. Free dangling vandaceous roots can be very demanding in some grow areas.

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    opaline's Avatar
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    Clear pots like those associated commercially with phals would be a good method giving you a window to let roots tell you yes or no to water. Some organic matter such as large bark still engages in natual decomp mode but very slowly and pockets form in spaces visually noticeable through pots and condensation continuous. This is my most overlooked troubleshooter and cultivate phals no problem now. I just spray area freely and never direct to pot media drench. All i watch closely for is water contact with underside leaf and contact with aerial roaming roots.

  6. #6
    sand_tiger86's Avatar
    sand_tiger86 is offline Senior Member
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    Thanks! But a concern of mine are the eventual size of the roots. Vandaceous roots are notoriously gargantuan and long...how are they kept in a pot? Do they acclimate the size of the roots to their confines, somewhat?

  7. #7
    opaline's Avatar
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    It will just fall into the same boat as others that become abundant with aerial roots, something that goes with the turf and aesthtecally au-naturel !. Anything can be considered as a pot as the root mass will not be in permanenlt wet bark/ media. Even just 50 /50 organic, synthetic will allow you to be more flexible on what you could use. Woven sea grass baskets where the warp in galvanised wire. Roots still need to dry off or appear dry to us so that there are no rot risks. Vanda roots go green very quickly on water contact but depending on your climate spray twice daily. Quite a difficult subject really as the grow environment is even more so a key dictator here. Mine hang free and get 1 - 2 heavy sprays. Thats 2 liters of rainwater in a 8ft x 6ft grow area. Gas central heating haas been in use alot for last few months and no probs. Iput it down to replicated life in the wild. Soak up when possible. Unless roots wither and dry and the leaves wrinkle will carry on as normal! When I observe the roots turning green then great Good sign.

    -What aabout slat baskets use for Stanhopeas/ Coryanthe.
    -Mounting to a moss pole where you can decide position of roots. Or tree trunk.
    -Once at a certain height and old leaves have left a bare trunk many growers chop and start again with the original left to side shoot and the other with a modest colony of its own roots to sustain it whilst growing.
    -Careful allocation of mosses.
    -Growers have used cable tidy's to gain control.
    -U turn loop upwards and round. This can be made inconspicuous with some Tillandsia esp spanish moss.
    -Grapevine spheres and a dash of artistic flare infact probably a feww tricks in floristry trade.
    -If suspended use the hanging feature so support a mixture of plants one under each other Vanda ontop. Succulents maybe to reduce battle for moisture. Root points can gently be aimed to go inside pots to circle again and again and so actuall length in drop is restrained.

    Many things can help bide your time as it matures manipulating the roots to minimise drop.
    Last edited by opaline; May 1st, 2012 at 10:55 PM.

  8. #8
    wonderlen is offline Senior Member
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    I grow all my vanda types in clay pot. Smaller vanda type are in without sideholes and larger vandas are in 6" + clay pot with large side holes. I filled the bottom with large chunks of brick or volcanic rock, stabalize the plants with large chunks of barks or logs and pad a few moss (lightly) around. I don't even water my vandas everyday, all are in windowsill. They seem to liek the slow evaporation of the water from the clay pot and you can flush the plant with a hose from time to time to get rid of any salt build up. If the plants get top heavy, i simply put it into the next larger clay pot. =)

  9. #9
    sand_tiger86's Avatar
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    Thank you! I just bought some lava rock today. You're in Canada, I see - may I ask, do they bloom for you? And how so? That's pretty far North...are they fine in a windowsill or do you have to use supplemental light?

  10. #10
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    Brutal_Dreamer is offline Dreaming with my eyes open...
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    We grow our vandas in wooden baskets and we drape the roots back over the basket as they grow longer and longer.

    cheers,
    BD

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