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  • 2 Post By sand_tiger86

Vanda roots?

This is a discussion on Vanda roots? within the General Orchid Culture forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; Lookie here, another Vanda question! Aren't y'all glad I change up my subject matter so ...

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  1. #1
    sand_tiger86's Avatar
    sand_tiger86 is offline Senior Member
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    Default Vanda roots?

    Lookie here, another Vanda question! Aren't y'all glad I change up my subject matter so much?

    Anywho, do Vanda roots stay hydrated and saturated with water longer than, say, Cattleyas? I've noticed that the roots on my Vanda stay dark green for much longer (and turn green much quicker) than my Cattleyas, which generally require more water to turn green and turn back to the natural white much quicker. My Vanda roots always air out by the end of the day, but they seem to hold water longer than my other 'chids roots. If it's not a problem, then great - less watering for me! But is that typical of Vandaceous roots?

  2. #2
    coeruleo's Avatar
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    Default

    i have noticed this as well. i think the larger vanda roots are more efficient, and adapted to be more 'aerial' than many other orchids that might normally be rooted in mossy/detritus pockets of branches. vandas and phals seem more often rooted to the side of a tree in nature, where less matter collects, so they are designed to absorb moisture from the humid air.

  3. #3
    sand_tiger86's Avatar
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    Yeah, I figure their roots are built to really take advantage of any water that's bestowed upon them so they retain it for longer periods than orchids with pseudobulds such as Catts.

  4. #4
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    Yes, I would agree, but they still require lots of humidity to remain healthy and bloom.

    cheers,
    BD

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    K, since Sand Tiger has deviated from his usual subject , let me jump on the band wagon with this question; How do I know which vanda can handle direct sunlight from the ones that don't? Or is that another misconception that I found on the net?

  6. #6
    sand_tiger86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dazed View Post
    K, since Sand Tiger has deviated from his usual subject , let me jump on the band wagon with this question; How do I know which vanda can handle direct sunlight from the ones that don't? Or is that another misconception that I found on the net?
    I've wondered this myself. I've hard that V. coerulea and hybrids with heavy coerulea in them are slightly cooler growing and don't need quite as much direct sunlight. I don't know for sure, as I don't have one...but that's what I've seen. I also think Ascocendas don't want direct sunlight as much, either...The standard sized, true Vandas, as far as I know, are the ones that need nearly full sun. I do believe that you can acclimate practically any vandaceous orchid to full sun with the right care, though. I hope somebody else who is knowledgeable on this weighs in.

  7. #7
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    K I'm just bumping this thread cause I'm curious to know what any of the senior members have to say.

  8. #8
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    all the strap leaved ones i have grown in the vanda alliance get sunspots if they get too much california sun. they can handle some short morning sun, and a little dappled sun, but otherwise they get little brown or black burn marks and lose a lot of leaves and get leggy. they all flower at least once a year around the spring or fall. some both, with just very bright light, late evening sun through trellis and shadecloth. from what i have read, straps need much less light than the terete species that are grown in hawaii and the tropics. they must have sun to flower, and their leaves are slender and don't soak up as much light. some hybrids get a little sun protection by having teretes in their parentage. slowly move your vanda into the amount of light you want to grow it. but to keep it lush and green, avoid mid-day sun. this winter i am going to double my shadecloth when the sun angles down to see if i can keep my orchids a little greener and more lush.

  9. #9
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    I have a coerulea and it sits behind a net curtain in a south east facing window all day. So far I have not seen any burning on the leaves. The temps have recently been 27-30.C for the last week and as I said, so far so good, no scorching.

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