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Vanda sulking?

This is a discussion on Vanda sulking? within the General Orchid Culture forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; Originally Posted by sand_tiger86 I live in Texas. I'm well aware that they're not flowering ...

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  1. #11
    Dorsetman's Avatar
    Dorsetman is online now Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by sand_tiger86 View Post
    I live in Texas. I'm well aware that they're not flowering size, but they're just not budging in leaf growth. And I wasn't aware that Vandaceous orchids need a chill-down before they would flower? I thought they hated cool weather.
    There are two species used in the background of pretty well all large flowered Vandas. V.sanderiana comes from Mindanao in The Phillipines, and I don't think there is much difference between the natural temperature average in June and December there - in other words it does not get much natural seasonal variation. On the other hand, a really good thunderstorm can lower the temperature by 10 degrees, and many orchids need that sort of thing as a trigger to flower ( e.g. the pigeon orchid of Malaysia). The other species involved here is V.coerulea, which comes from places where there are three seasos ; cold dry, warm dry, and wwarm wet. In the cold season, temperatures down to single figures of degrees C. at night would not be unusual ( I have spent nights in the forest there - and I can tell you this from personal experience)- the plants need that kind of ripening to flower. In my collection of maybe 2-300 vandaceous plants, , and when I think there does not seem to be very many spikes developing, I look at the weather forecast, and as long as temperatures above say 8 degrees C are forecast for the nights, I wil sort out a few plants which have not flowered recently ( looking for those with more than 3 pairs of leaves abouve the last flower spike, ) and leave them out all night for a few nights. Sometimes a single night is sufficient, sometimes a week - but either way, flower buds are usually seen 6-8 weeks later...as to the size of the plants, I have never flowered a seedling less than say 8 inches high with say 8 inch leaf span, and most usually twice that size.In Thailand they can get there in 2-3 years from flask ; My best is about 4 and most usually 6.

  2. #12
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    If yours are growing tons of roots, you are doing GREAT! Because vandaceous orchids grow year round, they need consistent fertilizer, so I would try to give them fert twice a week. You said that you are watering daily, just make sure they are drying completely between waterings. Good luck! And I think you will do just fine with them.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dorsetman View Post
    There are two species used in the background of pretty well all large flowered Vandas. V.sanderiana comes from Mindanao in The Phillipines, and I don't think there is much difference between the natural temperature average in June and December there - in other words it does not get much natural seasonal variation. On the other hand, a really good thunderstorm can lower the temperature by 10 degrees, and many orchids need that sort of thing as a trigger to flower ( e.g. the pigeon orchid of Malaysia). The other species involved here is V.coerulea, which comes from places where there are three seasos ; cold dry, warm dry, and wwarm wet. In the cold season, temperatures down to single figures of degrees C. at night would not be unusual ( I have spent nights in the forest there - and I can tell you this from personal experience)- the plants need that kind of ripening to flower. In my collection of maybe 2-300 vandaceous plants, , and when I think there does not seem to be very many spikes developing, I look at the weather forecast, and as long as temperatures above say 8 degrees C are forecast for the nights, I wil sort out a few plants which have not flowered recently ( looking for those with more than 3 pairs of leaves abouve the last flower spike, ) and leave them out all night for a few nights. Sometimes a single night is sufficient, sometimes a week - but either way, flower buds are usually seen 6-8 weeks later...as to the size of the plants, I have never flowered a seedling less than say 8 inches high with say 8 inch leaf span, and most usually twice that size.In Thailand they can get there in 2-3 years from flask ; My best is about 4 and most usually 6.
    Very interesting and helpful information! Thank you! I would say that my fuchsia Vanda is about 5 inches high, but the leaf span is about 1 foot. I really have no way to tell that if it's miniature or not, but both parents are actual Vanda. My guess is it'll end up a pretty large specimen if it doesn't die on me. The other is little Mokara/Ascocenda hybrid which is about 4 inches tall with a leaf span of 7-8 inches. On both, I'd assume that it'll be at least two years before either bloom. I can tell they've been deflasked for a few years, but they're still adolescent.

  4. #14
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    Name:  Vandaceous-seedling.jpg
Views: 504
Size:  96.0 KBI have been thinking about your problem , and have two suggestions ; 1) are you in too much of a hurry ? Plants sometimes grow roots and do nothing else for a time, without anything being actually wrong ! But if this has been going on for more than a few months, like a year ot more , consider option 2). Something is wrong with your nutrition. I actually use a complex formula -13N ( high nitrogen is important for leaf growth) 3P ( low P - higher can be a stop to leaf growth and force a switch to an attempt to flower, which can be abortive in a junior plant) 15K ( essential for new DNA production) 11Ca - (calcium makes up the side walls of the cells to a large extent , and many commercial fertilisers miss this out, thinking it's in the tap water - but I don't use tap water, I use rain) 3 Mg ( same applies, well, in the sense that it is in tap water but not in rain - and Mg is the building block for chlorophyll - the green stuff in the plant ) .
    A good booster at this time of the year ( Spring in the Northern Hemisphere) is a foliar feed with a heavy dose of Epsom Salts ( Magnesium Sulphate) mixed to at least twice the strength you might use for watering onto the plant. Apply as a spray - just once. You may see the leaves change to a brighter green with a week or two ; then try adding extra Calcium and Nitrogen - in the form CaNO3 is very convenient. Mix 88gms to 1 litre of water for the stock solution, then add two generous table spoons per gallon of water, and use instead of any other feed, maybe alternately with your usual.
    Here's a pic of a vandaceous plant in my collection 25 months out of community pot, when about 2 inch leafspan. Now in a 5 inch pot. I do have to admit that I wish they were all like this - but it shows what is possible. No maguic , just science.

  5. #15
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    The fact that they are producing new roots is a great sign. I have several Mok x Ascda crosses. They are in more light than the the other vanda types.
    Vandas act adversely to stress. They will retreat to dormancy producing no new roots nor growth at the crown. While they like warmth and light they can become very stressed in high heat. So be careful in your window situation. I know Texas can become very warm. A small fan oscillating across the area will help in the dead of summer.

  6. #16
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    Just an update! Upon watering my Vanda this morning, lo and behold, a tiny new left is starting to emerge from the crown. Victory! haha It's getting new root tips all over the place, as well. Guess it's over it's little pouting spell.

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