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  • 2 Post By Ron-NY
  • 1 Post By Chris1140

Some questions on dividing

This is a discussion on Some questions on dividing within the General Orchid Culture forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; Hi y'all, I have some questions regarding dividing a few of my plants. The first ...

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  1. #1
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    Default Some questions on dividing

    Hi y'all, I have some questions regarding dividing a few of my plants. The first question is concerning a Cattleya which has never bloomed but is getting completely unruly. I don't know why it hasn't bloomed, everything else does, but I'm sure it will some day. In the mean time though, it's way too big with over 15 pseudobulbs. Is it safe to divide even though it hasn't ever bloomed? Or would dividing it just ensure that it will never bloom at all?

    My second question is for my plants that HAVE bloomed. Does dividing set them back several years on blooming? Since you're cutting them back down to a smaller size, will it be like having a seedling all over or once they've bloomed already do they always stay "adult"?
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  2. #2
    Ron-NY is offline rothaholic
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    when you divide, have each division be about 5 p-bulbs. Put in a pot that allows 2 years growth. It should not set the plant back. I always recommend dividing at time of active growth. As for your non bloomer..just place it next to the blender ..hopefully it will get the idea if it doesn't preform for you it will be pureed.

  3. #3
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    I have done a few and while I didn't kill anything, I would not call it a success either. It seems the more growths the stronger the plant and better blooms,but that is just my experience. I like the blender idea, I have a few I will try that with

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    About not blooming....

    Is it getting cooler night time temperature? I set my cats out on my deck this spring when the night temps got about 40 degrees. My Leila has a new spike and the other 2 are threatening to sprout.

    Also, they like bright light, up to around 4000 f/c

    Why don't you post a picture and let us see the plant?

    Do you belong to an orhid society/ they could show you how to divide it if they think you should.

  5. #5
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    I agree, if something doesn't bloom it can only be temperature, light and/or a rest period.

  6. #6
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    Large flowered Cattleyas always give me this kind of trouble. It's not light because I bloom antelope Dendrobiums. It's not a temperature drop because I get my Phals to bloom like clockwork. Smaller flowered and leaved Catts do fine (as do other sub-genres of Catts like Epicatts) but give me a large leaved floofy Cattleya and it's going to refuse to flower every single time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by sand_tiger86 View Post
    Large flowered Cattleyas always give me this kind of trouble. It's not light because I bloom antelope Dendrobiums. It's not a temperature drop because I get my Phals to bloom like clockwork. Smaller flowered and leaved Catts do fine (as do other sub-genres of Catts like Epicatts) but give me a large leaved floofy Cattleya and it's going to refuse to flower every single time.
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    I don't vary the temperature for phals, but Catt need the variance, might try it. Or more fertilizer, Catt are heavy feeders.

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    I have had success with allowing my cats a 10 degree change in the fall for about 2 weeks. I also have found they perform better after re-potting with the recommendations of 5 psuedo bulbs. The other thing I've done is switch up on the fertilizer schedule just to change the rotation. I'm more on the rescue end and should try the blender so it would happen quickly.

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