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Questions regarding Seasol

This is a discussion on Questions regarding Seasol within the General Orchid Culture forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; I finally got my hand on Seasol (just because it is discounted). Anyone has experience ...

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  1. #1
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    Question Questions regarding Seasol

    I finally got my hand on Seasol (just because it is discounted). Anyone has experience using Seasol on orchids before? Any recommendation on dilution should I use on orchids? How do I store Seasol (fridge or ambient temperature?). On the bottle itself it recommends weekly usage. However, the experiment on youtube tested on corn, tomato, cucumber and banana, they soak the plants for extended amount of time (for days) without removing the plant from diluted Seasol, of course it works but I find it is a little bit misleading than what is recommended. Any explanation is much appreciated.

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    I google this too ; it is a concentrated seaweed product. I believe that I have used a similar one on sale in UK - Maxicrop. I used to make up a solution to my usual EC strength ( 600ÁS) , and do the same with Calcium nitrate, and thirdly do the same with a standard hydroponics "Bloom" mix, then mix all three together. Everything grew well but I found difficulty in controlling pH when I used it for S/H - and it was only after using this for several years that I discovered the pH problem was from the Calcium nitrate.
    To cut a long story short I changed to a formula very similar to the Missouri one ( or should that be Missippi ? ) and finally one of our brighter European nurseries started selling a ready made equivalent, which keeps pH to ideal limits without fuss and I standardised on that. If you want a name and address, pm me -but sending 2kg jars of it would be expensive - I collect a year's supply at a time from a major show I visit annually.

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    There are many "seaweed" products on the market, but they actually are quit dissimilar in their contents and how plants react to them.

    I would be a bit concerned about the sodium content of Seasol, but once diluted, and used infrequently, it's probably not an issue.

    I suggest you start with a 1:400 - 1:500 letdown, and see if you get a reaction i a few weeks. If a month goes by with nothing, increase it a bit.

    Geoff- it's likely Michigan State University (MSU), sold in Europe as "Rain Mix".

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    Quote Originally Posted by raybark View Post

    Geoff- it's likely Michigan State University (MSU), sold in Europe as "Rain Mix".
    Yes, we usually use the name of the nursery and call it A*********'s Rain Mix

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    Not sure if the Seasol is the same here as it is overseas BUT what most growers don't realise is that this or most/all seaweed products are for GARDEN plants, NOT Orchids. It is a plant starter for soil grown plants as a stimulator for roots & transplant shock. Its formulation is designed for soil, not Orchid mixes where its action doesn't work. It also has an issue that if used for a prolonged period of time on mounted orchids or Vandas, ie exposed root plants, can & does leave a brownish film over the roots thus suffocating them & causing them to die off. IF a roo stimulant is required for your Orchids, used a recognised product for Orchids or simply used ordinary white sugar at 6 teaspoons per pint of water. ANY stimulant should only be used for 10 applications MAX' or it can & does have a negative effect on the plants.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy View Post
    Not sure if the Seasol is the same here as it is overseas BUT what most growers don't realise is that this or most/all seaweed products are for GARDEN plants, NOT Orchids. It is a plant starter for soil grown plants as a stimulator for roots & transplant shock. Its formulation is designed for soil, not Orchid mixes where its action doesn't work. It also has an issue that if used for a prolonged period of time on mounted orchids or Vandas, ie exposed root plants, can & does leave a brownish film over the roots thus suffocating them & causing them to die off. IF a roo stimulant is required for your Orchids, used a recognised product for Orchids or simply used ordinary white sugar at 6 teaspoons per pint of water. ANY stimulant should only be used for 10 applications MAX' or it can & does have a negative effect on the plants.
    Question Roy on amount of dose of the sugar water, normally I use 1 tablespoon per gallon of the kelp that I have been using. I have seen what you said would happen on some of my orchids using a non orchid kelp mix, will be making a change.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy View Post
    Not sure if the Seasol is the same here as it is overseas BUT what most growers don't realise is that this or most/all seaweed products are for GARDEN plants, NOT Orchids. It is a plant starter for soil grown plants as a stimulator for roots & transplant shock. Its formulation is designed for soil, not Orchid mixes where its action doesn't work. It also has an issue that if used for a prolonged period of time on mounted orchids or Vandas, ie exposed root plants, can & does leave a brownish film over the roots thus suffocating them & causing them to die off. IF a roo stimulant is required for your Orchids, used a recognised product for Orchids or simply used ordinary white sugar at 6 teaspoons per pint of water. ANY stimulant should only be used for 10 applications MAX' or it can & does have a negative effect on the plants.
    I think it is Australian product imported into Malaysia. I did not realize that it is specially designed for soil. Luckily you mentioned that. But it does say it could be used as foliar spray. So maybe I will avoid the root and only spray the leaves for an early experimentation. Thank you Roy.
    P/S: I was waiting for a fellow Australian to reply.

    ---------- Post Merged at 07:32 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by raybark View Post
    There are many "seaweed" products on the market, but they actually are quit dissimilar in their contents and how plants react to them.

    I would be a bit concerned about the sodium content of Seasol, but once diluted, and used infrequently, it's probably not an issue.

    I suggest you start with a 1:400 - 1:500 letdown, and see if you get a reaction i a few weeks. If a month goes by with nothing, increase it a bit.

    Geoff- it's likely Michigan State University (MSU), sold in Europe as "Rain Mix".
    I was planning 1:500 or 2:1000 too. Thank you for the recommendation.

    ---------- Post Merged at 07:36 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Dorsetman View Post
    I google this too ; it is a concentrated seaweed product. I believe that I have used a similar one on sale in UK - Maxicrop. I used to make up a solution to my usual EC strength ( 600ÁS) , and do the same with Calcium nitrate, and thirdly do the same with a standard hydroponics "Bloom" mix, then mix all three together. Everything grew well but I found difficulty in controlling pH when I used it for S/H - and it was only after using this for several years that I discovered the pH problem was from the Calcium nitrate.
    To cut a long story short I changed to a formula very similar to the Missouri one ( or should that be Missippi ? ) and finally one of our brighter European nurseries started selling a ready made equivalent, which keeps pH to ideal limits without fuss and I standardised on that. If you want a name and address, pm me -but sending 2kg jars of it would be expensive - I collect a year's supply at a time from a major show I visit annually.
    Thank you for the offer. But importing overseas product on my own would be very expensive $$$$. I would only buy overseas product from the store or online from a local seller.

  8. #8
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    1 table spoon of sugar per gallon would be ok Jack. Once plants from flask to pot have established back it off to nothing & start normal fert'. Repotted plants don't need it. Divided plants for a month or 2, every second watering then back off to nothing & go with reg' fert'.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy View Post
    Not sure if the Seasol is the same here as it is overseas BUT what most growers don't realise is that this or most/all seaweed products are for GARDEN plants, NOT Orchids. It is a plant starter for soil grown plants as a stimulator for roots & transplant shock. Its formulation is designed for soil, not Orchid mixes where its action doesn't work. It also has an issue that if used for a prolonged period of time on mounted orchids or Vandas, ie exposed root plants, can & does leave a brownish film over the roots thus suffocating them & causing them to die off. IF a roo stimulant is required for your Orchids, used a recognised product for Orchids or simply used ordinary white sugar at 6 teaspoons per pint of water. ANY stimulant should only be used for 10 applications MAX' or it can & does have a negative effect on the plants.
    I think you're painting with too broad of a brush, Roy. There are just SO many seaweed products on the market, and they vary all over the map in terms of consistency, quality and effectiveness.

    I have never heard of using sugar for root stimulation; I'd be concerned about fungi and ants. Good quality kelp products are high in auxins, and the improper application of those - too much or too often, not the number of applications - can lead to flower deformities, and/or stunted growth. KelpMax is by far the most effective product on the market, and I recommend that for routine use, it be applied at a 1:250 dilution, no more often than once a month. And it does not discolor anything.

  10. #10
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    Ray, the sugar came from a gent working on plants & cell structure etc at a University in England I believe many decades ago. Verified in studies on here but not official ones that sugar when diluted is easier for a plant to absorb thru the root system & allow the plant to use it as a food/stimulant almost instantly.

    The Seaweed product you speak of highly I have no doubt that it works for you. The Seasol is the most widely spread Seaweed product available. Charlie Carp is another BUT it is promoted at the garden not as broad stream fert'. The report I gave was a bit broad but the same warning should be applied I believe. The grower who raised the problem I described with me is one of the most experienced grower of a multitude of genera around & very little escapes him.
    Looking at the composition of nutrients in the products here, they are a waste of time as a long term use product, they aren't sufficient in anything & lack lots to be even considered a fertilizer for long term use. Addition fertilizing needs to be done to cover the lack & missing items. Just what is regarded as fact over here Ray.

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