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Question on Oncidium spikes

This is a discussion on Question on Oncidium spikes within the General Orchid Culture forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; I was just reading some confilcting suggestions. I read that on certain Oncidium plants, the ...

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    Talking Question on Oncidium spikes

    I was just reading some confilcting suggestions. I read that on certain Oncidium plants, the spike should not be cut. What alliances should I cut back and which should I leave alone? Thanks, Traci

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    OT, we cut the spikes of everything back once the flowers have dropped (and sometimes a little before). Occasionally, the spikes of some intergenerics will put out a little side branch or two if we didn't get to cut in time, but these have maybe four or five flowers on them, and that's it. Not a show worth saving an old spike for, and keeping that spike going reduces the plant's energy and makes it take longer for the plant to bloom next time.

    Cut 'em all the way down. The plant will go dormant for a couple months where it won't do anything but shed old leaves and scare people. Then, new growth will start sprouting and the spikes and blooms from those will be really strong.

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    Originally posted by lja
    OT, we cut the spikes of everything back once the flowers have dropped (and sometimes a little before). Occasionally, the spikes of some intergenerics will put out a little side branch or two if we didn't get to cut in time, but these have maybe four or five flowers on them, and that's it. Not a show worth saving an old spike for, and keeping that spike going reduces the plant's energy and makes it take longer for the plant to bloom next time.

    Cut 'em all the way down. The plant will go dormant for a couple months where it won't do anything but shed old leaves and scare people. Then, new growth will start sprouting and the spikes and blooms from those will be really strong.

    Phew! I was worried that maybe that is why my plant wasn't flowering. But of course, there hasn't been a significant temperature drop at night either. I'm thinking all my orchids that haven't flowered will be giving me a nice show come summer. That is the only time of year there is a 10-15 degree drop at night.

    I'm wondering why I didn't get an email to your reply, that is strange...

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    Traci, you should have gotten an email about a reply if you've signed yourself up for those. Check your User CP (Control Panel) to make sure that the "email you when a post has been made" is still activated. We just got through moving our servers from in-house to off-site: that may have something to do with it. If it says that you're still set up to get email notifications but you're not getting them, let me know. It'll be something I'll have to look into and fix. In any case, thanks for saying (!!)

    The temp drops between night and day aren't necessary for most plants to get them to rebloom. It's really only an issue if you're growing full sized Cymbidiums or certain Paphs. (notably rothchildianum or crosses made with it). (Some other genera as well, but not things typically grown in the home....)

    Sorry about the email notification. I'll definitely look into it.

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    This notification got to me, maybe the last time was just a fluke thing.

    I don't understand why my oncidiums aren't producing spikes. Maybe I should read less (that they flower 2-3 times a year) and just not worry. It is the healthiest plant in the world, it keeps making new growth and the root system is absolutly amazing. I guess when it is realy, it will give me some flowers.

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    When was the last time it bloomed? They do usually bloom twice a year, very occasionally, three. If the foliage and the roots look good, and the new growth is almost mature (has started to develop its pseudobulb) it should also start initiating a spike. Sometimes, giving plants more light will "shock" them into spiking...

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    it flowered last August, and has already formed 2 fat pb, and new ones are growing off of those ones now.

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    It sounds really healthy--I would say that light is definitely the issue, and that it needs more than it was getting since last August. But you've moved since then, and you said you now had some brighter locations. Place it in a bright spot!

    Also, "twice a year" for blooming doesn't necessarily mean "every six months." It may take eight or nine months from one blooming, and then only four or five from the next one. Also, if it's a Brassia cross, many of those only bloom once a year. It really depends on growing conditions: light levels, fertilizer, etc.

    But definitely give it more light: I'll bet that before you know it, you'll look at it one day soon and see flower spikes growing out from the base....

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    I puy iy in the brightest window, and used a fan on low for air. At the orchid show I went to yesterday, a woman told me it would help prevent leaf burn. I bought a Brassavola Nodosa that I am going to mount, and an oncidium barbie 'strawberry delight'. The latter is a mini , but it is large for a mini. It had 3 flowering shoots and 2 that are just in bud. I'll have to get a pic of it, it is so beautiful!

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