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Question about cattleya culture

This is a discussion on Question about cattleya culture within the Genus Specific forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; Figures...ah well, they will just have to adapt. Otherwise I'll end up trading them for ...

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  1. #11
    Cjcorner's Avatar
    Cjcorner is offline Senior Member
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    Figures...ah well, they will just have to adapt. Otherwise I'll end up trading them for something a little more into the heat and humidity here. A little more patience perhaps... we shall see.

  2. #12
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    Brutal_Dreamer is offline Dreaming with my eyes open...
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    Nice response, John! Good information. Good luck, Connie!

    Cheers,
    BD

  3. #13
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    John, thanks. Great post.

  4. #14
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    wetfeet101b is offline It's not dead! It's just permanently dormant.
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    When I purchase a new orchid that I am not familiar with, I usually buy them in quantities of 3 or more (as long as they are not expensive ).
    My philosophy is that at least one of them would be able to adapt to my growing conditions and it becomes my starting point for division propagation.
    If all three survive, then that means I got two beautiful mature plants ready on the STOP block

  5. #15
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    I have to agree with the point about night temps being important....its that daily fluctuation in temperature that IMHO is really the key. Also, just knowing something about cold things, cooler air causes things to condense, so I imagine that would help them have shorter stronger pbulbs as opposed to longer more flimsy ones grown in warmer temps. Good post!!

  6. #16
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    John--as usual I have learned something from reading your post. So what is the "ideal" night temp for catts? I am letting everything get down around 62 right now to initiate phal spikes. Is that cool enough for good, healthy catt growth? Days at the moment are topping out at about 80-85. ???

    Thanks for all the great insight.

  7. #17
    wetfeet101b's Avatar
    wetfeet101b is offline It's not dead! It's just permanently dormant.
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    Sadie,

    I cannot speak for all the catts out there as there are possibly hundreds of hybrids and species with their own range of tolerances.

    However, generally speaking night temperatures below 75F is considered "cool" by cattleya standards. And anything below 50F would put them to sleep (dormant, not dead).

    Our typical summer nights are in the 80F-85F range, so we are just a bit warmer than what catts would like. So my catts' summer growths exhibit some mild symptoms of this problem, but not too bad (I had an old post about it with some pictures). They grow large and fast, but too soft by cattleya standards and then eventually harden. The key is to avoid any physical injuries to the leaves and pseudobulbs until they harden - think molting lobsters lol.

    I wish I could bring the summer night temps down inside the greenhouse, but my greenhouse does not have an A/C unit - nor could I afford to run it. I would be happy with summer nights at 75F

    However, there are a few incidents when the growths coincide with a heatwave and we get night temperatures of 85F-90F for a few nights. The pseudobulbs look like the party clown's balloons complete with twists and turns.
    Check out an old photo of this heatwave victim:

  8. #18
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    John,
    You've answered my questions perfectly--a rule of thumb is all I was looking for. There are so many catts--it would be impossible to be very specific without knowing more of what I actually grow. I had just noticed that some of my new growths that matured during the summer (when night temps rarely dropped below 80) were a little leggy and wimpy by catt standards. I'll remember to treat them like baby lobsters.

    Thanks,
    Sarah

  9. #19
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    When mine are soft I twist tie them to another stronger p-bulb to keep it standing until it hardens off. Otherwise over they go, hanging over sideways with a huge kink in the p-bulb.

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