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  • 2 Post By catasetum-ian
  • 2 Post By opaline

CTSM winter seedling care

This is a discussion on CTSM winter seedling care within the Genus Specific forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; I recieved a flash of CTSM this summer and I'm a bit nervous abbout the ...

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  1. #1
    Dawn-oh's Avatar
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    Default CTSM winter seedling care

    I recieved a flash of CTSM this summer and I'm a bit nervous abbout the dormancy period they require during winter. These wee babes are between 2-3" tall in a compot and being so small, will they live through months of no water? Anyone try raising them from flask before? I don't want to kill em!
    Thanks
    Dawn-oh

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    can't really answer your question how to exactly help your catasetum through the winter season cause here in my area is hot and humid throughout all year round.
    but basically this is what i do for dormant plant, minimal watering, sometimes i even wait for them to shrivel a little before i water them again. if you plant is in plastic pot packed full with sphag moss, extra careful about watering them during the dormant phase. rule of thumb, its easier to kill one catasetum by over-watering rather than under-watering them.
    However i did read form the net before where you need to keep them above certain temperature. can'r recall from where, perhaps you can try to Google it. any perhaps some other forum member who are growing catasetums in temperate climate would be able to help you out here.
    i had raised several catasetums from compot so far, easy to grow.

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    Thanks. I was told by the seller (who lives in nice warm FL) to keep them dry, not cold and dry. The mix is part sphagnum, some small tree fern fiber, pearlite, a fairly light mix that does hold moisture for 2-3 days. I'm just nervous about the little ones that have not yet formed pseudobulbs, seems if they dry out they'd never make it. I will keep in mind NOT to overwater them when they get older tho, thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dawn-oh View Post
    Thanks. I was told by the seller (who lives in nice warm FL) to keep them dry, not cold and dry. The mix is part sphagnum, some small tree fern fiber, pearlite, a fairly light mix that does hold moisture for 2-3 days. I'm just nervous about the little ones that have not yet formed pseudobulbs, seems if they dry out they'd never make it. I will keep in mind NOT to overwater them when they get older tho, thanks!
    perhaps with some pic about your plant to see how young are the little ones. and also how long is winter away?
    perhaps you can try indoor with UV lighting during winter season. that would keep them warm and also sufficient light for growing in the same time.

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    Hi Dawn. Your dilemma may be reduced slightly in the fact that as long as they are actually/actively growing and continue to grow green you treat as a normal watering session applicable to your growing conditions. Only when the leaves yellow and fall (deciduous) do you withdraw watering regime or atleast reduce significantly as many will flower after they have shed their leaves.

    As I am currently in winter about 70 % have shed leaves and half of these are spiking into their glory. All catasetinae at this time are hung/suspended upside down. This for one allows me to mist/spray and the plant can absorb/ drink water it wants to sustain flower period. And two the risk of rot is low. Water collecting in leafaxils/joints and crown can cause the plant/ bulb to rot within a 48 - 72 hour timeframe, as they are dormant or flowering or have triggered the start of dormancy.

    Some have even decided to commence plant growth again and sending roots out. Now as yours are seedlings with no bulb to sustain it yet, this does pose a threat if they decide to iniate dormancy. Like Cat-ian said they have years round perfect growwing temps and catsm will continue to mature. Financially dependant ofcourse a grow light set up would be ideal under T5 lights. A controlled micro environment isolated from being triggered by shortened length of daylight would be beneficial. If not it will be trial and error and may workout well for you and young plants remain in active growth. If not and orchids suprize us with how tough they are, it is possible after dormancy that they will shoot. Very much trial and error im afraid and you will need to adhere to a strict and precise watering schedule as the plants are vulnerable, at the sime to much moisture will induce risk of rot.

    During winter season I dont withdraw water completly in dormancy and the daily misting of whole grow area helps to sustain the plant, together with the dormant bulb sustaining itself. many of my bulbs are shrivelled and exhausted and some are single, but they comeback next grow season. Hope this helps and just use caution and dont worry or fret.

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    Cool CSTM winter care

    Brilliant! Thanks for all the helpful advice! Makes sense to keep watering them as long as they're still growing, a few larger ones have lost their leaves. Those few larger ones have small (1/3 inch) PSBs , I can move them from the current compot into a new one to hold just those few that are a little bit plumper. Winter, depending on what you DEFINE as winter, is settling in as we speak. The sun sets at a ridiculous 4:30 pm already. They are in a window, but I can move them under the T5 lights no problem....which begs the question, if the plants go dormant, why do they still need that added light?

    In the earlier reply about hanging them upside down, are those under lights as well? Hang them HOW? Never heard of that before for any dormant orchid, very interesting!! Do tell.

    And thanks for all the truly useful advice. Ps, the seedlings are only 2" tall, roughly.

    Sincerely, Dawn

    PS, growing orchids in Minnesota is quite a challenge, but a worthwhile one for sure. What else is there to do when it's -20F?

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