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Epiphyllum

This is a discussion on Epiphyllum within the The Jungle forums, part of the Land Plants category; Originally Posted by Phalcycle Ahh. I have many of these epi. but I don't know ...

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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phalcycle View Post
    Ahh.
    I have many of these epi. but I don't know how to bloom them.
    They are really large, but haven't bloomed in ten years.
    I need help
    I've had mine for 8 years, and it just bloomed this summer for the first time, so don't give up hope. It had 3 blooms and they lasted for about 3 days. I took pictures on my cell phone, but I don't know how to post them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phalcycle View Post
    Ahh.
    I have many of these epi. but I don't know how to bloom them.
    They are really large, but haven't bloomed in ten years.
    I need help
    I had one of these as well and it never bloomed. It found a new home when I moved. Since then, I have been told that plants need to be pretty old to bloom and they like to be pot-bound. Most of them need a significant day/night temp differential to bloom and they need to be kept out of unnatural nighttime lighting. Like I said, these are only things that were told to me...I have no experience blooming them myself.

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    CULTURE Epiphytes do not like full sun, semi-shade is idea. In other words the same conditions favoured by many ferns and orchids. It is worthwhile remembering that the cultural conditions are entirely different from the rest of the Cactus family. Lack of this understanding may have caused failure in the past. These plants are very easy to grow and flower in the right conditions.
    The parents of most of these plants, in natural habitat, grow epiphytically on forest trees and vegetation. they use the trees as support, but do not derive any nourishment from them. They root in accumulated humus material on, for example, tree branches. They produce long aerial roots which can take up water from the humid atmosphere.
    COMPOST There are many potting composts which are suitable but one we recommend consists of:
    3 parts house plant compost
    1 part of coarse lime free sand
    1/2 part rotted cow manure or organic material like 6X
    Any potting compost used for epiphytes should ideally be porous and contain a high proportion of organic material. The addition of a small quantity of Bone Meal, which is a slow releasing fertiliser, can be beneficial.
    POTTING When you receive the rooted cuttings, plant them in slightly moist potting compost, and then withhold water for a couple of days or so, and then water normally. Do not use very large containers as epiphytes do not produce as large a root system as other plants.
    LABELLING As these plants are virtually impossible to name correctly when not in flower, we always label the cuttings themselves with an indelible marker pen. Customers are then always sure that they receive a plant which is correctly labelled.
    WATERING and FERTILISER Root moisture should be available all the year round, but remember to water freely in hot weather. An addition, spraying with water is particularly beneficial in hot weather, to maintain a high humidity. From March onwards water with a low nitrogen, high potash fertiliser such as Cactus or tomato fertiliser. This helps promote flowering.
    After flowering change to a high nitrogen fertiliser to promote growth for enhanced flowering the next year.
    TEMPERATURE Minimum winter temperature is 7 C (45 F). In cold conditions brown spots may appear on the stems. These are not caused by a disease and so do not harm the plants but are nevertheless unsightly. In hot summer weather dry compost followed by copious watering can cause the stems to turn brown. This is a physiological disorder like blossom end rot in tomato fruits. These plants are killed by frost.
    PESTS There are two main pests of epiphytes - mealy bugs and green aphids. Proprietary brands of insecticides, both contact and systemic can be used. Always remember to follow the instructions on the labels before using, so as to make up a spray liquid of the correct strength. Do not add more than recommended - it may harm your plants. Suitable insecticides are available for purchase at the nursery.
    FLOWERING Flowering time for Epiphyllums is mainly April-July, the main month being May. If grown on correctly, rooted cuttings should produce enough growth to flower in 1-2 years. do not worry if some of the buds do not mature, the plant will only support those buds it can sustain. Remember the larger the plant, the more flowers that can be produced in a season. do not over feed with nitrogenous fertilisers as these tend to produce growth rather than flowers.
    FLOWER SIZE This is indicated, where known, after the name and is based on the average flower. Blooms can vary considerably in size depending on how the plant has been grown.
    S SMALL 6-13CM (21/2"-5")
    M MEDIUM 13-18CM (5"-7")
    L LARGE 18-23CM (7"-9")
    XL EXTRA LARGE OVER 23CM (9")


    video 1:
    video 2:

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    video 3:
    video 4:

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    Thanks Darren!

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    video 5:
    video 6:

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    Quote Originally Posted by cakedaddy View Post
    Thanks Darren!
    you're welcome Jason!

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    THANK YOU sooo much for the advice and movies on this thread... This answered all my questions I had and then some. I really appreciate it, and I'm glad that there is such a great forum like this one where I can readily find great suggestions and answers!

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    Thanks for the videos! I have been thinking about buying some Epi cuttings on the net. Now, I know how to deal with them. Has anybody ever done Semi Hydro with Epiphyllum? Probably too wet for them?

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