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This is a discussion on Nepenthes noid within the A Kodak Moment: not necessarily plants... forums, part of the Orchid Photography category; When i got mine it was potted in peat moss with sponge rock, since then ...
When i got mine it was potted in peat moss with sponge rock, since then i have transferred it to sphagnum moss and it seems to love it.
Please post pictures when you are done
There was a time when I had a big yen for anything pitcher. I was really lucky to find someone that grew them well. I had many cuttings from him. I never did great with them...just ok.
Connie, yours looks just wonderful!
I chose three large vining sections of the nepenthes, and prepared the baskets. I cut the top of the basket liner off. I didn't need that much growing/root area. I can use the cut off strips for my orchid mounts later on. I mixed up regular potting soil, shredded a piece of styrofoam, put in some spagnum moss and finished with peat moss. I had put the ingrediants in a large bucket, mixed it up...added some water to keep the dust down....and then mixed some more. I had several large pieces of broken pot and I used these to hold down the sections into the potting mix. I am about to go out and wet everything down, right after I move this monstrosity back into the misting area. It will take two posts to get in all the pics. I took a so many pictures of the different pitchers that I had a hard time just choosing these. lol
A few more pictures.....
Nicely done, wow your plant is huge even after you took those cuttings.
I haven't made any cuts yet. I wanted to give the nodes a chance to grow a root before I cut. I do this with my hoya and other vining plants to reduce the stress on them when repotting. I won't make cuts more than likely for at least a week. I know it's not how they say to do it...but it's always worked very well with my other "vining" exotics.
Very nice Nepenthes xMiranda... gotta love this, this is fast growing nepenthes that has a good pitcher to leaf ratio. Thanks sharing.
Typically what is done instead:
- Take a stem/vine and cut it into 2 or 3 inch (approx 5-7.5cm) sections. Each section should have at least two nodes, preferably 3 or more. (Nodes exist at each point wherein a leaf joins the stem.)
- Remove all lower leaves completely. If the top most leaf or two are large, cut the leaf or leaves back so it is only about 1-1.5 inches (approx 2.5-3.5cm) long.
- Bury the cutting so that only the topmost node is exposed. Keep the media damp but not wet. High humidity is generally helpful so potted cuttings can either be bagged like one would for sphag and bagging a chid, or use a clear plastic bottle as a "mini greenhouse".
For those unfamiliar but curious as to this "mini greenhouse" of which I speak:
- Take a 1L or larger pop/soda bottle and cut off the bottom portion at the "line" where the wide bottom section bends in to form the main body of the bottle. This is typically immediately below the bottom of the label.
- Put some drainage holes in the bottom section and add the damp sphag.
- The rest of the bottle can be used as is or shortened by cutting off the rest of the main bottle body to a point 2 or 3 inches (approx 5-7.5cm) below the top section where the bottle first flares out before tapering funnel-like to the 'mouth' of the bottle. For further clarification, this flare point is immediately above the top edge of the label.
- *Disgard the removed midsection of the bottle, if any, in your local plastic recycle bin.*
- Slide the bottom edge of the bottle top section into the bottle bottom section. It will likely be a snug fit.
- Remove the bottle cap to facilitate some air exchange if you wish though if fungus gnats and other such are problematic, leave the cap on and simply add a myriad of very tiny pin sized holes.
- Put your new "mini greenhouse" in a warm, bright area but NOT where it will receive any direct sun.
- Once or twice a week, separate the two sections to check the moss for dampness and to freshen the air within.
- Once new growth is evident on the cutting, rooting has taken place. At that point remove the bottle cap for about a week.
- After that, remove the upper section for increasingly longer periods of time to give the cutting time to acclimate to the change in humidity.
- When the rooted cutting has adapted to normal air conditions, it can be potted up and introduced to "normal" light conditions. (Note: If the lighting for the mother plant is greater than what the cuttings were exposed to, then -- as with seedlings started indoors -- harden them off gradually to those higher light levels.)