Shop Orchid Care OrchidTalk Orchid Forum Weather Station Links Nursery

Welcome to OrchidTalk Orchid Forums


The Friendliest Orchid Community on the Internet!


  •  » Learn to Repot your Orchids
  •  » Learn Orchid Care Tips and Secrets
  •  » Find the perfect Orchid for your Growing Environment
  •  » Chat with Orchid Growing Professionals

OrchidTalk - "Bringing People Together to Grow Orchids Better!"


Let us help you grow your Orchids better; Join our community today.


YES! I want to register an account for free right now!


Register or Login now to remove this advertisement.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 27
Like Tree13Likes

Help with my softcane Dendrobiums?

This is a discussion on Help with my softcane Dendrobiums? within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; Ok. it is summer here, temps. around 28 - 30 deg.C during the day, 17 ...

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size
  1. #1
    rosie's Avatar
    rosie is offline Rosie
    Real Name
    Annette
    My Grow Area
    Greenhouse
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    Cattleyas
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    444
    Member's Country Flag

    Default Help with my softcane Dendrobiums?

    Name:  Dend. 2.jpg
Views: 1041
Size:  33.3 KBName:  Dend.1.jpg
Views: 787
Size:  40.4 KB
    Ok. it is summer here, temps. around 28 - 30 deg.C during the day, 17 deg. C overnight.
    I withheld fertilizer, and just some water, during our winter (June to Sept.), and these photos show how lush they look, today. The year before, I did the wrong thing and fert. watered, and I got keikis. This year I did the right thing. So they are look great, but no flowers, what should my fertilizer regime be now. I have been feeding nitrogen 1 week, water 2nd week, phosp. 3rd week, water only 4th week. Seaweed extract 5th week. Surely they should be budding now? I have never had any flowers on my dendrobiums since I began in May 2010. Please advise me guys.

  2. #2
    Dorsetman's Avatar
    Dorsetman is offline Senior Member
    Real Name
    Geoff Hands
    My Grow Area
    Greenhouse
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    Cattleya ?
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    England, South coast.
    Posts
    3,251
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    How cool was it in your winter ? I've only been to Brisbane once, and that was from a cruise ship, spending a few hours, and I can't even remember what month it was anyway !
    Soft cane - D. nobile and its hybrids and allies require to be kept cool and dry in their rest period and will then usually have flower buds showing at the end of that period.
    However, the plant on the left above looks to me more like a Dendrobium in the phalaenopsis section ( no its not a phally ) which require but little rest, and perhaps need more light than you have given this one, judging by the colour of the leaves.
    But if you got keikis you were doing most things right apart from giving too much water ( they need nil = zero = absolutely nothing ! ) in that rest period. They only need fertiliser when in active growth. So try repeating whatever it was you did before except stop the water. You don't need to start again until those buds are clearly visible as flower buds, and even then they don't need very much until the new growths start and a crown of new roots is seen.
    It is difficult for a beginner to recognise just how much water many orchids will enjoy when growing fast - like an inch or two of rain a day every day , and just how little they need at other times, like three months between successive waterings !

  3. #3
    espranch is offline Senior Member
    Real Name
    Betty
    My Grow Area
    Greenhouse
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    encyclia
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Gender
    Female
    Location
    N. East Texas
    Posts
    2,747
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    Rosie, If they were mine, I would do this: water weekly with a weak fertilizer solution ( 1/4 of what directions say to use ), preferably blossom booster 10-30-20. I would do this two to three months prior to their blooming season. Water with the fertilizer solution three times in a row, then use plain water. Just my opinion...Betty

  4. #4
    rosie's Avatar
    rosie is offline Rosie
    Real Name
    Annette
    My Grow Area
    Greenhouse
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    Cattleyas
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    444
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    Thanks Geoff for your help. Actually the one on the left had only just been purchased in October, in bloom from a hardware store. So is in the greenhouse with 70% shadecloth on top all day. The others are Shinonome and a couple of noid dends. in 2nd photo. Our winters here (from about May - end of July) in Brisbane are from 10 C. to 18 C. I suppose when you stopped off on your cruise, you wouldn't have seen much of Brisbane, except our lousy wharf.
    Last edited by rosie; December 30th, 2011 at 07:48 PM. Reason: wrong photo

  5. #5
    opaline's Avatar
    opaline is offline Senior Member
    Real Name
    Matt
    My Grow Area
    Sunroom
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    Catasetinae
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Gender
    Male
    Location
    England, UK
    Posts
    830
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    Hi Rosie, generally across the posts altogether, it will be more applicable to the plant to increase light levels - bright light. In one way or another it is insufficient light that will deter the blooms. Together with this, the seaweed extract may just be greatly increasing the nitrogen dose supply of food to plant. Like the rotation of diff ferts as a safe bet to provide as many nutrients as poss, but too much nitrogen often promotes green, more green and a whole lot more..............................green!

    Tomorite, speccialist fert for fruit and veg plus tomatoes ofcourse acts as a bloom booster and contains seaweed extract. Tomatoes are loaded to the max (short season) while making strong lush foliage/ root growth while at the same time setting flower and fruit. I dont really bother with rest periods for my orchids as a whole bar about 5 or 6 and dont use special bloom boosters. I Have a high nitrogen feed 30.10.10 which is used occasionally/ weakly when spraying and use miracle grow for my cymbidiums ONLY as it burns root tips on epipyhte orchids. Seaweed extract is the only thing used routinely often.

    I have opted for 2 4ft gro lights to supplement sun whilst in our short grey winter days only. You may have read about it but as basic, cool white flourescence for blue spectrum for greenery and warm white flourescece for red spectrum - promote spike/ bloom. Sought of corroborates with increasing light levels to bright lit for dendro to increase trigger to bloom.

    I am starting to get quite sceptical about all these varied 6 digit npk fertilizers. I use rainwater and to replicate natural situ best i can the rain washes over mounts/ media taking with it a few nutrients here and there as organic matter decomps and this runs over the velamen spongy tissue on orchid roots and drink drink away until sufficiently hydrated. With a bit of high nitrogen feed and dose of seaweed all that is left is sunrays to iniate the science bit. Neglected orchids bloom as they have fought for survival and triggers reproduction attempts. A healthy orchid will bloom but it needs its fix of sun beforehand for preparation.

    please note - I am not dismissing temps, fertilizers and scale of moisture/ humidity to trigger/ encourage blooming.

  6. #6
    Dorsetman's Avatar
    Dorsetman is offline Senior Member
    Real Name
    Geoff Hands
    My Grow Area
    Greenhouse
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    Cattleya ?
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    England, South coast.
    Posts
    3,251
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rosie View Post
    Thanks Geoff for your help. . Our winters here (from about May - end of July) in Brisbane are from 10 C. to 18 C. I suppose when you stopped off on your cruise, you wouldn't have seen much of Brisbane, except our lousy wharf.
    Shinonome is 50% Dend nobile, 20% heterocarpum, 20% findleyanum (approx) and will do well if you put it outside , preferably where it won't get sodden with rain, but 10 degrees will help it set buds. You can leave it out until you see the buds or new growth starting !

    Actually we did see a bit of your home city - it happens to be memorable out of all the many places we have visited because we had lunch at a Botanic garden (?) University garden (?) something like that , and among other delights tried what we were told is a local speciality - devilled oysters , unfortunately it seems one was bad, and my wife had one of the brief painful food poisoning episodes which can happen anywhere if eating shellfish - she was perfectly well again the next day, and no hard feelings Brisbane : butI can still picture the fish platter, and indeed the restaurant - I think we ate in the open air, under a verandah - a sort of rustic balcony - the experience made the day unforgettable ! ( as you might gather I am a foodie nut as well as an orchid nut )

  7. #7
    espranch is offline Senior Member
    Real Name
    Betty
    My Grow Area
    Greenhouse
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    encyclia
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Gender
    Female
    Location
    N. East Texas
    Posts
    2,747
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    It does need more light, as it will not bloom without "high" light. 70% shade cloth is way too much shade. I have mine inside a greenhouse, but without a shade cloth...or outside, but watch it closely especially around noon. If it starts to burn, that means too much sun. Betty

  8. #8
    opaline's Avatar
    opaline is offline Senior Member
    Real Name
    Matt
    My Grow Area
    Sunroom
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    Catasetinae
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Gender
    Male
    Location
    England, UK
    Posts
    830
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    Have just clocked your winter temp range for May to July. I certainly would consider using that as a very ideal and useful 'tool' for orchid cultivation as you have it at your disposal, no cost, little time. The dendros that require/ or are recommended 2-3 months dry/ cool cultivation (whether one calls it rest or not) to promote spectacular shows of blooms would suit a place in your hobby/ garden perfectly. have a look at the displays!!!!Superb!

    I have began to refine and define my orchid hobby/ collection based on what i have available rather than or opposed to kidding myself, of course this has just been a simple insightful enjoyable journey and dont regret a thing! Very rewarding to document it and look back!

  9. #9
    Jose R. Nieves's Avatar
    Jose R. Nieves is offline Senior Member
    Real Name
    Jose
    My Grow Area
    Greenhouse
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Gender
    Male
    Location
    Puerto Rico
    Posts
    323
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    Rosie:
    Your "soft cane" are "hard cane" to me, sometimes called reed stem dendrobiums. I also see they are "too green", that may be due to high nitrogen and/or low light. Dendrobiums can tolerate prolonged periods of no fertilizer. My recommendations would be to hold all fertilizer/vitamins/extracts for a month and move the plants to a sunnier area in the bench. I hope you will see some spikes starting. Once you have them in the new area reevaluate your fertilizer program. Mature plants will do well with a once a month, however, once you increase light levels you are stimulating metabolism so you have to observe them closely.
    Jose

  10. #10
    rosie's Avatar
    rosie is offline Rosie
    Real Name
    Annette
    My Grow Area
    Greenhouse
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    Cattleyas
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    444
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    [QUOTE=Dorsetman;282589]Shinonome is 50% Dend nobile, 20% heterocarpum, 20% findleyanum (approx) and will do well if you put it outside , preferably where it won't get sodden with rain, but 10 degrees will help it set buds. You can leave it out until you see the buds or new growth starting ![QUOTE]

    Thank you Geoff, this is the first explanation I have received on this dend. You have been very helpful. The other orchids in the photo are nobiles, Superbiems and a Dend. speciosum.
    Your day visit sounded like you were at the Brisbane City Botanical Gardens. Which is beautiful, their Orchid shows are quite spectacular. I must get there this year (New Year Resolution). I'm very sorry for the nasty oyster dish. It just takes one, doesn't it. Was this delicacy eaten at our South Bank. There are various seafood restaurants there. It is quite a busy place on the bank of the Brisbane River, with BBQ, Kodak Beach (a big pool with sand), long walks along the river.
    I feel like I could talk to you all day.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Dendrobiums, Dendrobiums!
    By angel in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: July 21st, 2010, 04:02 AM
  2. Three Dendrobiums to pot
    By Cjcorner in forum Genus Specific
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: April 9th, 2010, 08:49 PM
  3. My dendrobiums
    By e4rly in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: April 28th, 2009, 08:28 AM
  4. new to dendrobiums
    By nagal1 in forum Dendrobium Information
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: June 10th, 2007, 02:39 PM
  5. Are these dendrobiums the same?
    By ntgerald in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: July 2nd, 2006, 06:29 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
OrchidTalk --An Orchid Growers Discussion Forum brought to you by River Valley Orchidworks. A World Community where orchid beginners and experts talk about orchids and share tips on their care, cultivation, and propagation.