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Dendrobium Canes Shrivelling

This is a discussion on Dendrobium Canes Shrivelling within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; Hi guys, I bought a Dendrobium Kingianum in November 2011 online from Belgium. I repotted ...

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    Talking Dendrobium Canes Shrivelling

    Hi guys, I bought a Dendrobium Kingianum in November 2011 online from Belgium. I repotted it by seperating the canes in groups of 4 in a bigger pot, it has buds on it already. I was the beginning of Winter. Since then, the orchid has bloomed but the canes have continually shrivelled and none of the leaves have gone yellow or shed. I don't know what to do. I have kept it with the other orchids on the window sill and the potting mix is not wet but moist. Your views might help save this one, please share your advice. I am situated in the UK and its mid winter here.


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    Hi Gurj , Old canes do naturally die with old age as they are replaced by new growth. The shrivel texture you are observing is either 'dehydration' (check root health if newer canes/ more recent are showing symptoms)) or the natural factor of plant using up the moisture/ nutrition reserves as in all orchids in their storage - stems/ canes/ pseudobulbs and leaves., out with the old and in with the new.

    As you are a stones throw away from me new growths should be starting now or will be soon with the commencing of longer days and more sun.

    The foliage looks super strong and healthy. The presence of yellowing of leaves would require a bit of investigating. Dont let your dends feet/ roots sit too long in moisture, allow to dry out betw waterings.

    Orchid root rot is the worlds number one ailment/ killer due to lack of knowledge with 'epiphyte' orchids, growing on trees/ elevated areas with roots open to catch rain flow as it falls. The air flow is constant.

    Leaves look dark try increasing light levels to bright. Lack of sun worshipping leads to none flower production. Not strong direct exposure though- sunburn!

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    Flowering uses alot of energy and also an orchid will only keep sufficient back up with canes or bulbs sufficient for its survival as it matures. Dont cut old canes, they sometimes re bloom or produce kiekis (babies) esp the one you have! Only cut if dieing/ rotting.

    If your root ball is healthy then assume insufficient watering (plant looks like it has a big appetite and warm conditions ( central heating) will increase transpiration/ evaporation).. Try foliar spraying/ misting. Grow season starts soon!

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    Hi Matt, my neighbour, thank you for the advice. If I knew where you are, I'd have called you over to have a look and invite you for lunch (curry and rice). I have checked again, the roots are white, not wet but moist. None of the leaves are yellow or yellowing. My only concern is the shrivelling of the canes. I am new to orchid keeping. Shall I give it a dunk? Because, as the winter season approached I witheld watering like I do in summer, dunking them all once a week. You might be right, with the central heating on, there is a possibility of transpiration. All my orchids are on a window sill so they get plenty of flitered light, you know how it is here; 5 minutes of Sun if at all.

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    hello neighbour, I am bromsgrove side of rubery/ rednall. As you follow rest/ cool dry periods as do many then that is the reason for your wrinkling canes, orchid purely living off its water/ nutrient reserves that it stores away during grow times. If you think your central heating is used in a substantial amount then a dunk may be good to supplement its water out take (transpiration)., glad to hear roots are all white and healthy. Depends on how strict you want to be? Some growers tend to stay cool-dry, no water at all for 3 months. ofcourse this depends on temperatures, dont want to exhaust the poor thing.

    Winter light/sun here not good at all. I decided to supplement this year with gro lights until daylight gets longer and the sun comes out to play. Lunch sounds very good, i am very spoilt at the moment with a gorgeous variety of dishes, all these long grey/ dull days making friends do lots of cooking! hehehe...jamaican and indian cuisine make me very fat!

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    I have grown quite a few kingianums and have 6 or more in my collection. After blooming is not the time for canes to dessicate. D. kingianum, in their natural environment go through a cool/dry/bright spell before they come into bloom with the spring rains. The canes shrivel during this period and that is normal. The spring rain cause the shriveled canes to re-plump. I try to replicate their natural habitat in growing them. Come the fall, I place them in a southern exposure and don't again water them until they spike and the spikes break their sheaths. If they are watered before that, they tend to keiki and not bloom or bloom as well. This was taught to me, many years ago, by the late, Dr. Wilford Neptune. Dr Neptune was a breeder of kinguianum, in this country and garnished many AOS awards for his prodigy.

    As for your shriveling it is most likely due to shock, secondary to the repotting. They are a hearty species and should come along just fine. They like to be fairly crowded in their pots and I would have not did as severe divisions as you have chosen to do. I suspect they will do fine though.
    Last edited by Ron-NY; January 19th, 2012 at 10:58 PM.

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    Thank you Ron, I see I made a wrong decision. I will make sure to keep this in mind. Thank you and Matt for your input!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron-NY View Post
    I have grown quite a few kingianums and have 6 or more in my collection. After blooming is not the time for canes to dessicate. D. kingianum, in their natural environment go through a cool/dry/bright spell before they come into bloom with the spring rains. The canes shrivel during this period and that is normal. The spring rain cause the shriveled canes to re-plump. I try to replicate their natural habitat in growing them. Come the fall, I place them in a southern exposure and don't again water them until they spike and the spikes break their sheaths. If they are watered before that, they tend to keiki and not bloom or bloom as well. This was taught to me, many years ago, by the late, Dr. Wilford Neptune. Dr Neptune was a breeder of kinguianum, in this country and garnished many AOS awards for his prodigy.

    As for your shriveling it is most likely due to shock, secondary to the repotting. They are a hearty species and should come along just fine. They like to be fairly crowded in their pots and I would have not did as severe divisions as you have chosen to do. I suspect they will do fine though.
    I am failing at this, it doesn't look good. Most of the roots are dead, leaves have started to yellow, BUT the blooms are still there. I am confused, angry, irritated and totally misunderstood. . . fuming; totally can't understand what is really happening. I got rid of most of the dead roots, repotted it in a new medium with charcoal and bark mix over a bed of charcoal. That's all I can think of. Shall I leave it alone or mist water on the medium?

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    Hi Gurjeet relax dont angry, ok now get the fungicide spray over the entire plant wait for,24 hours, the cane already shriveled and the leaves turn yellow nothing much that we can do, here we are hoping that the cane will produce some shoots at the bottom. I'm bit worried maybe the roots get infected when you received the plants, remember anything can happen. Please get some sphagnum fully soak with fungicide than cover the bottom part of the pseudobulb to encourage the new roots formation. Hoping this will work for you good luck.zain

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    Quote Originally Posted by zainal abidin View Post
    Hi Gurjeet relax dont angry, ok now get the fungicide spray over the entire plant wait for,24 hours, the cane already shriveled and the leaves turn yellow nothing much that we can do, here we are hoping that the cane will produce some shoots at the bottom. I'm bit worried maybe the roots get infected when you received the plants, remember anything can happen. Please get some sphagnum fully soak with fungicide than cover the bottom part of the pseudobulb to encourage the new roots formation. Hoping this will work for you good luck.zain
    Thank you Zain, I don't have a fungicide but i can place some moist moss at the bottom.

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