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Cymbidium Loch Maree Horror

This is a discussion on Cymbidium Loch Maree Horror within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; Last year my standard Cymbidium Loch Maree Produced a curiously deformed spike which was crooked, ...

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  1. #1
    Pindar's Avatar
    Pindar is offline Senior Member
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    Default Cymbidium Loch Maree Horror

    Last year my standard Cymbidium Loch Maree Produced a curiously deformed spike which was crooked, almost like a fern crozier unable to unwind fully. The result was that the blooms were tooName:  Cymbidium Loch Maree 30.JPG
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    This season everything went fine again and I also include a photo as it is looking right now at this moment.

  2. #2
    Cjcorner's Avatar
    Cjcorner is offline Senior Member
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    If you find out let me know. Check out the way some of my epidendrum pbulbs are spiking out this year. Only some of them are curly; others are straight and perfect. Even the one tucked in ended up coming out and forming buds. These pics were from December, they are now blooming.

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  3. #3
    gardenguysorchids's Avatar
    gardenguysorchids is offline Don't be afraid to color outside the lines
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    Sorry I cant help with an answer but that is one beautiful cymbidium. Will be interested in hearing what the experts say.

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    opaline's Avatar
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    any black marks on leaves. Can be genetic or possibly has disease of some sought, if kep moist long periods or saturated air - great for Bacterial infection. oo heavy handed with superthrive - over dosed - can cause disfiguremnet.

    Possibly subjected to stress with significant temp fluctuations and low humidity. Too warm in winter rest as spike is set.

    High dosage ferts when in rest/ dry/cool. Could have inflicted physical damage whilst in deveopment without realising.

    My money will go on too warm, moist and cosy as the plant sensed shortness of photoperiod (rest time) whilst spike set. Its wimpish and weak and poorly developed with no fight in it and also faced obstruction as it meets sheath - no strength to push out and voila - ruined spike.. Cyms need to be hardened off and must be given some tough love, just dont slap it!

    As with most orchids spoiling them and wrapping them in fluffy cotton wool, panicking because a leaf moved is no good. They need to put their survival instincts in to motion, otherwise they just behave like a depressed budgie withouts its mirror - no soul no passion or lust to live and reproduce and manage biological processes armed and ready for attack/ defense, ofcourse their reserves also need to be soughted unitl mission complete- strong healthy seeds.

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    Thanks Matt.

    The infuriating thing is that it had spent all summer and most of the autumn out in the shade, so as to katch day/night temperature difference to ensure good spike initiation... and then it produces a weird spike.

    ...But last year I couldn't take my Cymbidiums out because we we completely redesigning and rebuilding the back garden- and it flowers fine!

    But the rest of the info you supply I will consider carefully. Hmm...

  6. #6
    Pindar's Avatar
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    Dear Connie, what a swizz- I am so sorry for you predicament, it is such a shame when this happens. Guess we all have to take these things on the chin sometimes, dust ourselves down and carry on! The thing is though- your plant looks so healthy, so it is an enigma for this to happen...

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    opaline's Avatar
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    It maybe the case that each year it matures a more steady balanced regime will occur. Largely with lot of orchids the hit and miss occurences continue at first in a lengthened stretched period of acclimatizing. Also possibly roots/media was dry and fert cause tissue burn to roots at a key development time of spike. Ive noticed a few (various orchids) that seem to struggle within an altered time warp and takes few grow season to sought self out.Like their confused.

    6 - 10 oc during the winter and a maximum of 26oc during the summer.

    Often over cared for and struggle to re bloom cos of this!require cool nights during the summer and increase in temperature day of at least 6oc .and are best kept in bright lit position may - sept. After flowering use hi nitrogen food 301010.spring to sept/Mine thrive on mracle grow as well. Will give good new growth and new big bold pseudo-b's.

    Sept - start high potassium/ phosphorus (bloom boosters) and low nitrogen , infact the lowest of all. Bio processes here will strengthen bulb and set for spike. I use tmorite here and miracle grow,

    That is about as much as I can share and if you announce today or 1st next month u start regime above the plant will hurry along and coordinate with the temperate seasons and ofcourse your schedule. Im still training mine to fetch and roll over but not getting anywhere?

    Keep to the simple and very basic steps/rules - should reward you in no time.

  8. #8
    opaline's Avatar
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    Sometimes the right mix of elements is just not right. Even level of humidity coinciding with time of year care can play a part. I do read alot of articles/ tips, the only thing I argue is the level of light provided in situ. At one time cyms were classed as sun worshippers with the thick strap leafs basking away and the thinner strap leaves away from direct rays (or filtered sun - net cutains/shadecloth). I can with confidence insist that they have 6 hrs of rays minimum may -sept. dawn till noon and 4-5pm till dusk. 12 noon till 3-4pm the sun is too harsh and have seen sunworship plants struggle. Cyms wont flower if their new pseudo- bs have had poor exposure. Nutrition and light are critical may-sept. For a spring show of blooms (april may) the psbulbs factory and spike emergence will be in motion prev aug sept oct. This is when high potash/phos is upmost required and even exposure to the red spectrum of the sun. The high nitrogen and light exposure may onwards adheres to the blue spectrum - vegative growth.

  9. #9
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    Dear Matt: Thank you so much for all your help- I really appreciate the trouble you have taken to help me out here. You are solid gold, and someone worth listening to! I think the light issue may indeed have a part to play in my predicament because the Cyms that have not flowered really have received less light overall, even when they were outside in 2010. Loch Maree has been receiving brilliant light since the late Autumn when the shades go off permanently because the light is less severe and danger from heat passes.

    Hey- I use Miraclegro and Tomorite too! Like you I look at the composition, and these are readily available and totally suitable. Nitrogen is Nitrogen, Potassium is Potassium no matter what the brand!

    Your notes are really valuable- you have digested all the info for me- and I am fortunate to benefit from your knowledge and experience. I will follow your advice and try to be more careful and organised in my Cym culture.

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    Lovely flowrs in any event.

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