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This is a discussion on Staking Your Orchids within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; This is a problem with being a plant molecular biologist, you try to figure some ...
This is a problem with being a plant molecular biologist, you try to figure some scientific explanation for a phenomenon I think there is some science behind this advice like the turgor pressure in the xylem, phloem etc. higher relative temperatures leading to more elasticity etc etc. Or it is simply that people are a bit clumsy in the mornings with all the Wine they had the night before and by mid day they are in the best of their senses LOL !
I am by no means an expert at this staking thing, but here's what I do with catts. I stake pbulbs early, not waiting til they have a bud. If I need to stake the stem of the bud itself, I do it early too, and sometimes in stages, letting it be partly corrected for a week, and then correcting more the second week. Any moving of the stem is done very slowly and gently, of course. I've had good results not breaking anything this way...but I still manage to break them in OTHER ways, of course.
I will try that tipping thing, thanks!
Jeff, I do that too...many times it just seems easier to tie to an existing pbulb. I'm glad to hear someone else does it too.
Thanks, Kathi, and Jeff (again!). I have actually staked pbulbs without buds early on, myself - no spikes to break there, si I don't get nervous. Early planning is always the best. But I'm not generally an early planner, especially since I don't have a greenhouse, and cattleyas especially don't make pretty windowsill plants year-round. Often, I find that I'm buying orchids to reward (winning an award) or console myself (usually for breaking a spike!), and I'm an absolute sucker for a catt already budding. It's hard for me to coax a catt through the winter inside here, so none of mine are second-bloomers, for instance (of course, that's also because I've scarcely been growing orchids for a year).
I'm so looking forward to living in Puerto Rico, where I can grow outside 24/7! Anyway, one thing I've learned from y'all is to work with the pbulb - not the spike - when I'm staking a catt already in bud - it's a half successful approach - hard to make the blooms open properly without somehow staking or tying them - THAT'S the area I'm dangerous in.
I have two floofies - one in bloom, and one almost in bloom. Both are staking nightmares. I'll post them and you'll see.
By the way, Folks should be especially aware - new growers, that is - that you CAN'T straighten the spike of an already budding Paph! Their stems harden early on, and even the most outrageously poorly-grown spike has to be left pretty much as is. Sometimes you can just support the spike near the blooms, but I personally hate the appearance of a huge stake as part of the look of the plant.
I buy a roll of the green plastic coated wire used for setting-up chain-link fencing, cut it up in various lenghts to make stakes. CAUTION !! please if you try this please take a pliers and turn the top end into a small 'eye'. This will prevent you from being stuck in your eye or face when bending over a plant.