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What to do with a species that will not re-bloom in the area you live in?

This is a discussion on What to do with a species that will not re-bloom in the area you live in? within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; Hey Mesmer- I used to live on Dennis Ave between Georgia and Connecticut Aves. Graduated ...

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  1. #21
    78Terp's Avatar
    78Terp is offline An Avant Gardner
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    Hey Mesmer- I used to live on Dennis Ave between Georgia and Connecticut Aves. Graduated from U of MD College Park in 1978 (hence 78Terp).

  2. #22
    coeruleo's Avatar
    coeruleo is offline Night Bloomer
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    last week we got a round of lows should kick cymbs into spiking. they do need a dip in temps especially at night with warmer days to spike. it was a bit colder in the valley, and they were foolproof out there. here my lows don't always get low enough for spikes. but usually. especially the common minature types. the standards are amazing when in bloom, and if you can learn their secret, very worth growing. it's the sort of thing people here will devote a portion of their back yard too. people build bleacher type benches and grow tons of them. i would avoid frost on a younger plant, but with 4 spikes, i'll admit you have a nice sized plant already, but don't push the freezing. a few days around 60-70 with nights under 40-50 (so a 20-25 degree day/night dip) for a good week or 3 is all it takes. any south facing window in a frostfree but unheated (that cold drafty room) will do. light is really important though, they need a south window, especially when growing. another secret - don't move them around a lot especially when spiking. don't repot unless you really need to. for these i would highly recommend some sort of non-rotting mix, but they do ok in the basic large bark mixes. and you can easily find the summer and winter fertilizers that help keep them on a seasonal growth. bulbs put out their flower stem, then a new vegetative growth (or 2). i don't ever recall getting a second spike from the same bulb. it can be hard to tell what bulb a spike is coming from though. these have a definite seasonal growth pattern. after they settle in they always around the same time, unless you have odd weather. that can throw them off. i have heard stories of people moving away from here and putting cymbidiums into a refrigerator at night for a few weeks. i did that forcing bulbs a few times, and theoretically it might actually work. but you need a really cold spare frig.

  3. #23
    Mrs_A is offline Junior Member
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    I know exactly where that is!! I'm just up the road off Newport Mill between Conn. and University! It's a small world
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    Coeruleo thank you so much for so much wonderful information! My temps are perfect for getting my cymbs to rebloom! I'll just have to leave them on my south facing covered balcony next year until mid-November. I have a semi heated storage room there that leaks enough heat during the day to raise the temp outside the door to the low/mid 60s during the day easily.
    I was watering and inspecting my cymbs last night and noticed new root growth from a bulb that is right at the edge of the pot. At this rate my cym will be air rooting as the bulb is already bulging over the edge of the container. I hadn't planned to repot until after the blooms had dropped. Just curious... Will air roots and being a little pot bound hurt future growth? My cymbs are still in the original containers from the grower with what looks like fine peat/perlite culture. I haven't really counted but there's definitely more the 15 bulbs in an 8" pot.
    Thanks in advance for any help!! I appreciate any and all info.
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  4. #24
    78Terp's Avatar
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    From what I read they do like to be tight in a pot and a repotting usually ends with the plant not flowering for 2 years. They don't like their roots disturbed.

  5. #25
    78Terp's Avatar
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    Another question has come to mind.

    At what point do I move it outdoors in the spring? What are the weather requirements?

    I have heard that once the temps are above 45 F overnight, it is safe. Is that a good rule of thumb to follow?

  6. #26
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    Wade's Orchids is offline Senior Member
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    Something that I feel is important is that Cymbidiums are different than most other orchids. During the growing season (from the time buds form till fall cool-down) they like LOTS of water and fertilizer. After temps go down to the mid to low 50s, stop feeding and cut down on water. They don't want to be dry, but less moisture than during active growth. Keep em cool (nights in the 50s) till you see flower spikes form and then start the water and feeding again. Good luck. Cyms are very durable plants.

  7. #27
    78Terp's Avatar
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    My cym has started a new growth already. The last flower spike has not expired yet, so I am encouraged that I have a chance of success with it.

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  8. #28
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    Carolla is offline Senior Member
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    My poor cym took a dive due to two large dogs racing around the house (naughty dogs!) and is now two rather smaller cyms.... who knows when it will bloom or if it will survive. I'm bummed, but its my fault, it was on a rather unsteady stand and they bounced it. I hope that both parts will live and eventually bloom, but who knows?

  9. #29
    78Terp's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear that.

    Good news for my cym though. It now has 3 new growths on it.

    Is it always like this that the new growth always come from the shortest side of the pot? If they had popped out on the other side of the pb's, they would be no where close to the edge of the pot. But noooooooo, they sprouted on the side closer to the edge.

  10. #30
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    Well so far so good, both parts look like they are doing alright.

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