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Repotting help needed Monnierara Millenium Magic ‘Witch Craft’ AM/AOS

This is a discussion on Repotting help needed Monnierara Millenium Magic ‘Witch Craft’ AM/AOS within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; Ijlun, interested to know about using a drinking straw....

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  1. #11
    ksriramkumar is offline Senior Member
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    Ijlun, interested to know about using a drinking straw.

  2. #12
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    hi mary kay, ksriramkumar,..
    you know the condition when the roots only attach to each other or pot by their very thin outer layer, and using hand to break it could tear way too much, even end up breaking them. so i originally looking for a waterproof paper that was thin and sharp enough to be inserted in between to separate it, but found straws instead ( i used to make plastic flowers from straws as hobby so i have many types of straws),.. flatten the straw, and insert the root you want to separate in it,.. could separate with very minimum damage instead of tearing with hands,..
    And you could actually leave the ones you've separated in the straw for a short time while working the other..
    Last edited by lijun; June 17th, 2014 at 11:23 AM.

  3. #13
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    kspalding is offline Senior Member
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    Found this for u on the AOS website in regards to ur orchid.
    Intro:


    Catasetinae orchids have two distinct seasons: growing and dormant. Generally, we ship this plant in spike (or ready to flower). Although it sounds like work treating it differently each season, it is actually less work than most orchids because of the winter rest.







    Light:

    These orchids can handle intermediate to bright light conditions. If you aren’t using artificial light, an east or south window would be the ideal position.



    Temperature:

    Intermediate to warm, with winter night temperatures from 58 degrees to 64 degrees Fahrenheit and winter day temps from 70 to 80 degrees F. Summer temps can be a few degrees warmer.



    Humidity:

    During the summer, 50% or higher is ideal. During winter, after the plant loses its leaves, it can tolerate humidity as low as 35%.



    Air movement: Catasetinae enjoy abundant air movement; if you are growing in a greenhouse, use air-circulating fans. They do best hanging, as this allows for maximum air movement around them.



    Water:

    These orchids are thirsty during their growing season, which is generally spring through late fall. Water before the potting material completely dries out. Once to twice per week is normal. After the flowers are finished, the leaves on the main growth will turn yellow, drop off, and leave the pseudobulb (or cane). This is when the orchid can rest. This means not much water and no fertilizing. The bare bulb is holding the energy to produce a new growth after dormancy. When dormant, the plant can be kept dry (almost no watering) until a new growth emerges in the spring. Generally, we slightly apply water if we see the bulbs start to shrivel or wrinkle a bit (this means a light water or spritz of water to the potting media). In the spring, a new growth will start to emerge from the base of the largest bulb. Once it has reached 3 or more inches in size, the watering schedule can go back to normal.



    Fertilizer:

    You can fertilize with an orchid fertilizer, such as Green Jungle Orchid Food, once the new growth has reached 5 or more inches in growth, all the way until the next dormancy period. If the orchid is in moss, fertilize once every third watering. If the orchid is in bark, fertilize two out of three watering times.



    Flowering:

    Late Season:

    Sometime after flowering, in the late autumn, the plants will begin to enter the dormancy phase. It is important to understand the signals of the onset of dormancy and the factors triggering it. The plant’s first signals are the yellowing and browning off of the leaves; at this time, stop fertilizing and reduce watering by ½ and when most leaves are yellow/brown and have dropped off, cease watering altogether. The general rule to follow is: by the 15th of November, stop fertilization and reduce watering by ½. Most leaves should have yellowed or fallen off by the 1st of January, however, if the plants still have leaves, all irrigation should be stopped at this time.



    The onset of dormancy is caused by several factors: the maturity of the pseudobulb, shorter day length, cooler day/night temperatures and a reduction of root zone moisture. In most of the country, dormancy occurs naturally, however, when the plants are cultivated in warm growing areas such as in South Texas, Florida, Hawaii, or in the home or under lights, sometimes dormancy needs to be encouraged. Stopping watering in early January, regardless of the number of green leaves, will trigger the dormancy.



    Repotting:

    Fine bark or New Zealand sphagnum moss works best. We choose to use sphagnum moss.

    We use plastic pots as they have better moisture retention, however, if you have a very humid environment (75% plus), clay pots can also be used.

  4. #14
    silverstoli's Avatar
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    Thanks Kim. I can't wait to see this guy bloom. He does like a lot of water and is growing really well. I will probably have to help with the dormancy when the time comes unless we actually have a cool fall/winter. I would think our temps might confuse the poor thing.

  5. #15
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    I tried this but didn't know how hard to suck on the straw.

  6. #16
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    wade,.. i never tried sucking it, only used it as to replace cutting with scissors or tearing,.. and slide the roots in. but since you mentioned sucking the root with the straw,.. i think i may try that too,..

  7. #17
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    It's been a few days since I repotted. The large bulb had a few wrinkles in it when I repotted. Nothing major, but there were defined indentions. Today it is very plump and the indentions are gone. I guess it is happy about the new pot and media. It looks very good.

    Thanks for everyones help in this. I was very nervous as the roots were so crisp and brittle. I know I broke a few, but it seems happy now, so I guess I didn't do too much damage.

    MK

  8. #18
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    Zainal Abidin Bin Othman
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    Quote Originally Posted by silverstoli View Post
    It's been a few days since I repotted. The large bulb had a few wrinkles in it when I repotted. Nothing major, but there were defined indentions. Today it is very plump and the indentions are gone. I guess it is happy about the new pot and media. It looks very good.

    Thanks for everyones help in this. I was very nervous as the roots were so crisp and brittle. I know I broke a few, but it seems happy now, so I guess I didn't do too much damage.

    MK
    Dont worry Mary this part of our learning process really very interesting and the orchids actually very hardy plants as long as they dont get infection by hook or by crook it will grow for you depending on atmosphere temperature.

  9. #19
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    Mary- I was actually afraid to say this earlier for fear of being shunned by others horrors. But honestly, when we get our taiwan imports they are in nothing but moss that looks like mush. When I remove the moss (and this is where it may horrify ppl) I pay no regards to the roots. Once in their new environment they seem happier and befor I know it they start sprouting new ones. The aeirials even get beautiful lime green tips. I think its because when in an unsavory environment it can make the roots unsavory. Removing unsavory roots can prove to be more helpful.

  10. #20
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    The roots were actually in pretty good shape. But I do have a question, have you ever found something that looks like floral foam (Oasis?) in the pots or is that just broken down moss? I have found it in a few of the plants I have repotted. It is usually in the midst of the root ball, right under the plant stem when I find it.

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