doritis pulcherimma,yellow leaves?

Hi, Lucinda here,new to your forum. I'm not so new to orchid growing, have a varied,extensive collection but I have one doritis pulcherima that has me boggled. I have two of the same doritis,the white and yellow bloomers. One keeps getting an occasional yellow leaf even though it's getting good light, humidity, and ample food and water. No sign of mites or other critters,either! Could it maybe be a sign of too much light? That's the only thing I've been able to access. HELP!

Is it always the lowest leaf that yellows? Or are you getting them all over the plant?

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Diane

"NA BEAN DO'N CHAT GUN LAMHAINN"

Howdy Lucinda!

Thanks for joining us!

I'm not a Doritis species grower, so other may have more to offer you, but I'll give you my thoughts.

I usually attribute yellowing leaves to a watering problem. Too much sun makes them very pale green with a yellowish tinge, but that's different. Yellowing is either too much or too little water. It's usually easy to figure out if you check the roots. Note that when roots all rot off, too much water has caused the problem, but now the trouble shifts to too little water, as there are no roots left to absorb any.

How do the roots look, and how does the media look?

I've also had some (I have one at the moment) Dtps. and Phal. plants that just don't like to bloom. They grow great leaves and roots during the year, but once the spike goes up and the buds start to open, the plant sucks the life out of the lowest leaf, causing it to yellow, shrivel and die, and then working up, one leaf at a time. I think they're just genetically weaker plants. I've stopped cutting off the flower spikes to save the plants. I figure survival of the fittest. It the darn thing wants to bloom itself to death, who am I to argue. More room for a stronger plant!

Julie

Hi , Welcome to the forum , I have the same plant , it gets just a little more light than the regular Phals . no yellow leaves , as the others asked is it the lower leaf or ? Gin

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Never put off until tomorrow what you can avoid all together.

Welcome, Lucinda! I agree with the folks above. It is likely a water issue more than a light issue. If you can post a photo, that might help.

Cheers!
BD

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We could learn a lot from crayons: some are sharp, some are pretty, some are dull, some have weird names, and all are different colors....but they all exist very nicely in the same box. ...Hmmm? .

Hi again, Lucinda here, Yes, it's usually the lower leaves. I recently moved them to see if they'd like a slightly higher light spot better. I'm trying to water them a little more often, as they are only in 2" pots. They seem to be doing O.K. No more yellow leaves since the move and more water. Thanks!

Hi Piper, I wondered after reading your response if you knew about 'chilling' phalaenopsis? They need to be 'chilled' outside in fall, or I place mine close to airconditioner other times of year to get them to respike. Maybe this will help you. Same with cymbidiums, you have to leave them outside in colder temps until buds start to open or loose your blooms. NOT in freezing or below temps, of course, but just about anytemp right above.

Hi Lucinda,

Many flowers, such as Cymbidiums, and certain types of Dendrobiums, require cooler temperatures during their rest period. But that hasn't been my experience with Phals, although it may be true for certain ones.

I'd ask what your climate it is? Here in New England, my nights go down to 60 F because that's what the thermostat holds it at. It's not cold enough for standard Cyms, but might do the trick for Phals.

My other question would be which of your Phals require the cooler temps? It may be the influence of a particular species.

Other Phal growers want to chime in?

Julie