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Need Help Blooming in Northern Latitudes

This is a discussion on Need Help Blooming in Northern Latitudes within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; ...

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  1. #1
    melmah is offline Junior Member
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    Default Need Help Blooming in Northern Latitudes

    I have oncidium intergenerics, a cattelya and a zygopetalum for the last 2 - 3 years that have never bloomed for me so far.

    They are:

    Oncidium Hybrid (2 pseudobulbs)

    Odontioda (3 pseudobulbs)

    Brassidium Dark Star X Shooting Star (3 pseudobulbs)

    Miltassa Charles M. Fitch (3 pseudobulbs)

    Cattleya (Potinara X Wanda's Fire) (3 pseudobulbs)

    They are situated in front of a south window with filtered light from wood blinds and underneath a CFL lamp. They are all in semi hydro. We are currently in summer season and get light in that window from around 1:00pm – 9:30pm, but during the winter months, the light in that window is from 1:00 pm to 4:00 pm. The lamp is on for 12hours a day and I have been fertilizing with bloom booster to see if that would do the trick. What can I do to initiate blooming? What am I doing wrong?

    Thanks in advance,

    Melanie

  2. #2
    Diane's Avatar
    Diane is offline Can't Re-Member
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    Are you getting any new growths?

  3. #3
    clintdawley's Avatar
    clintdawley is offline Wrapped in metal..wrapped in ivy...
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    Clint M. Dawley
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    ..and are the newest p-bulbs larger than the last?


    Quote Originally Posted by Diane View Post
    Are you getting any new growths?

  4. #4
    Brutal_Dreamer's Avatar
    Brutal_Dreamer is offline Dreaming with my eyes open...
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    Usually the reason for folks don't get blooms is lack of sufficient light. Your reason may be young plants. Are these seedlings? Two or three pbulbs may mean very young plants. (Or they could be divisions - in which case I would recommend very high light levels compared to what you mention and not longer light levels, just higher.)

    Cheers,
    BD

  5. #5
    clintdawley's Avatar
    clintdawley is offline Wrapped in metal..wrapped in ivy...
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    Default I agree...

    I agree with Bruce's observations as well.

    In addition, what are the min-max temps in your growing area? (Orchids need day/night temp swings to set buds.)

  6. #6
    Mehera's Avatar
    Mehera is offline Just Another Senior Moment
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    In my south windows, the light floods into the room from about November to March, but after that, it gradually retreats until inside plants actually get more sun in the middle of the summer in the east and west windows. I have them directly in the sunlight; nothing to filter the light--and you are far north of me. I do have to watch them pretty close at certain times of the year to make sure they are not getting sunburnt. I guess my point is, I have to move my plants all year round to give them the best light. When they have enough light (assuming they are old enough) you will have no trouble getting them to spike.

  7. #7
    orchid-man's Avatar
    orchid-man is offline Not Normal
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    Murray
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    these plants sound as though they are young plants andwould still be a year or two from flowering

  8. #8
    pavel's Avatar
    pavel is offline change is the only constant
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    As others have mentioned, the problem is most likely that either your plants are too young yet or insufficient light.

    What COLOR are the leaves on the plants? (If they are dark green then you can be fairly certain that your light is not sufficient.)

  9. #9
    Phyrex's Avatar
    Phyrex is offline .CA-member-t
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    Pavel, is there a color table somewhere that indicates what is light and what is dark as light and dark are quite subjective terms ? I know when it is very light or very dark but what are proper colors?

    Note to self: Must get a light metre.
    Last edited by Phyrex; July 21st, 2007 at 07:10 PM.

  10. #10
    Kerry's Avatar
    Kerry is offline Too much to learn, let alone re-member!
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    Phyrex - do you mean light and dark green, or are you referring to light levels?

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