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Cymbidium

This is a discussion on Cymbidium within the New Growers: Ask the Senior Members forums, part of the New Growers category; As a new user I'm blown away by the amount of valuable info in this ...

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  1. #1
    ischel1's Avatar
    ischel1 is offline Senior Member
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    Question Cymbidium

    As a new user I'm blown away by the amount of valuable info in this forum. So maybe someone can help me figure out why my Cymbidium doesn't bloom. It was in bloom 2 yrs ago when I got it, but nothing since then. Last winter I made sure it was chilled properly for 3 weeks. I feed it weekly and water it when needed. So what's the problem? It's outdoors now in partial sun and the foliage is light to medium green. Help, anyone

  2. #2
    orchid-man's Avatar
    orchid-man is offline Not Normal
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    Ok ischel1

    cymbidiums can be like that but here are some tips.

    1) they are grose feeders-- want a lot of tucker
    2) do not grow them in more than 50% shade
    3) want cool night from about July/August - 50oF?
    4) keep feeding the beggars but change to a flowering formula

  3. #3
    wetfeet101b's Avatar
    wetfeet101b is offline It's not dead! It's just permanently dormant.
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    We will need more info in order to find out what the real problem is:

    1. What kind of cymbidium is it? (there are several different kinds and they vary in culture requirements).
    2. What temperature range does it experience? daytime highs/night lows, etc.
    3. Where are you geographically? and what light intensities does the plant experience? outdoors in Arizona will be different from outdoors in Michigan, for example.
    4. What is your watering and fertilizing schedule like? What kind of fertilizer do you use and how much do you use per batch?
    5. What potting medium is the plant sitting in?

    Once we have this information it will be much easier to find out where the problem areas are.
    We cannot guarantee a quick fix, but we will try to point you in the right direction.

    ~John

  4. #4
    ischel1's Avatar
    ischel1 is offline Senior Member
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    Unhappy

    Thanks guys for answering
    1.I have no idea what kind of cymbidium it is, it was a gift and came without a tag.
    2. Daytime highs up to 100 and nightime lately 80
    3. Located in NW Fl.
    4. Water 2 or 3 times a week depends on the rain and fertilize with MiracleGro Liquafeed Bloom Booster 12-9-6 one week and on alternate week I use Liquafeed 12-4-8
    5. Plant is potted in orchid bark and was last transplanted after it stopped blooming 2 yrs ago.
    It has 2 back bulbs and I was wondering if I should remove them?
    Also I bought the plant indoors to the A/C yesterday because someone told me it was too hot for it here. Did I do right?

  5. #5
    wetfeet101b's Avatar
    wetfeet101b is offline It's not dead! It's just permanently dormant.
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    Hi

    1.I have no idea what kind of cymbidium it is, it was a gift and came without a tag.
    Thats ok. A lot of orchids are sold without proper tags. Its not the end of the world, but it makes it more difficult to determine the proper care without some trial and error

    2. Daytime highs up to 100 and nightime lately 80
    That could be one of the main problems. Most cymbidiums require really cool nights while the new pseudobulbs are developing in order to produce flower buds. They want something like 50F-60F night time temperatures during the months when they are developing new pseudobulbs. Some varieties actually need cooler temperatures than that.

    3. Located in NW Fl.
    Sunlight and humidity should not be a problem in your area. Although providing the cool nights could be a challenge.

    4. Water 2 or 3 times a week depends on the rain and fertilize with MiracleGro Liquafeed Bloom Booster 12-9-6 one week and on alternate week I use Liquafeed 12-4-8
    That should be ok. Just remember that these monsters are heavy feeders and drinkers.

    5. Plant is potted in orchid bark and was last transplanted after it stopped blooming 2 yrs ago.
    Depending on the pot size in relation to the plant, 2 years is the usual schedule for repotting cymbidiums. The condition of the medium will also influence if you need to repot.
    Some orchid bark products completely break down after 2 years and leaves a mushy, soil-like material in the pot.

    It has 2 back bulbs and I was wondering if I should remove them?
    Keep the backbulbs attached to the main plant unless it is absolutely necessary to remove them. They still act as nutrient storage for the whole plant.
    If you are feeling adventurous and want to grow a new plant from that backbulb, that is also worth a try.
    But for now I suggest you keep the backbulb attached until you determine the conditions that will make the whole plant happy.

    Also I bought the plant indoors to the A/C yesterday because someone told me it was too hot for it here. Did I do right?
    Daytime heat is not a problem for cymbidiums. They can stand 100F daytime temperatures as long as they have adequate shading and water.
    It is the night time warm temperatures that is preventing it from blooming.

    Think of cymbidiums as having dual personalities:
    During the day, they need bright/near burning sun and can tolerate a wide range of temperatures.
    At night, they need cool temperatures.

    Bringing it indoors with A/C might work, but remember that they will still need bright light during the day so you need to place them near a bright window.

    Also (I am not 100% sure about this), but I think in cymbidiums the cells that produce the flower spikes are produced at the same time that the new pseudobulb itself is developing.
    In other words, if given the proper conditions the new pseudobulb will be "born pregnant" with the flower spike bud inside.
    If the pseudobulb develops under incorrect conditions, it will be sterile and will never bloom. It will just act as support for the rest of the plant - which is still important.
    If that is the case, then it is important to provide them the proper growing conditions BEFORE the new pseudobulbs develop or all new growths could be sterile as well.


    I hope this helps,
    John

  6. #6
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    Cjcorner is offline Senior Member
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    Now I remember why I don't have any of those...lol....lazy girl here likes the "cruise control" phals and catts around here.
    Connie

  7. #7
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    John, Thanks a mil for the reply. What great info you have about Cymbidiums. I think you are probably right about the temp, it's been nagging at me. Think I'll keep it inside in a sunny room until it gets much cooler and then put it out. Thanks again

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