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Bifrenaria Harrisonia

This is a discussion on Bifrenaria Harrisonia within the **NOT IN BLOOM** All Genera forums, part of the Orchid Photography category; It's late, I hope I spelled that right! A while back, my daughter purchased me ...

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  1. #1
    Carolla's Avatar
    Carolla is offline Senior Member
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    Default Bifrenaria Harrisonia

    It's late, I hope I spelled that right! A while back, my daughter purchased me some orchids from a small shop that was closing their retail section and one of the fun bargains she got me was this Bifrenaria Harrisonia. I thought I'd put up a picture, as I haven't seen much posted about them. If anyone knows how to grow it (the shop owner said it should do well with my Phals), I'd love more information! It's a little rough, but is doing well since I got it.

    Name:  Orchids 2-25-2013 Bifrenaria Harrisonia 1.JPG
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  2. #2
    Ron-NY is offline rothaholic
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    Bifrenaria harrisoniae

    Cultural info from Baker's cultural sheet:

    Cultural Recommendations:
    The following recommendations are based on averages in the habitat which
    should be approximated in cultivation. Reports from growers are included
    when they report success with conditions in cultivation that are outside
    the range indicated in the habitat.

    LIGHT: 3000-4500 fc. Since B. harrisoniae is normally found growing in
    exposed locations on east facing cliffs, full morning sun with afternoon
    shading is indicated.

    TEMPERATURE: Summer days average 77-80F (25-27C), while nights average
    66-68F (19-20C), producing a diurnal range of 10-12F (6-7C).

    HUMIDITY: 75-80% throughout the year.

    WATER: Moderate water is required during the growing season. Care should
    be taken to keep water off the leaves of new growths.

    FERTILIZER: A balanced fertilizer mixed at 1/4-1/2 recommended strength
    should be applied once a week during periods of active growth. After new
    growth is mature, use a fertilizer with less nitrogen and more phosphorus
    to allow the new growth to harden before winter and to promote better
    blooming the following season. To prevent salt buildup during periods of
    heavier fertilizer applications, the pot should be leached or flushed
    every month or so. This is accomplished by prewetting the media and then
    flushing with water equal to twice the volume of the pot.

    REST PERIOD: Winter days average 70-72F (21-22C), while nights average
    58-60F (14-16C), producing a diurnal range of 10-12F (6-7C). Along with
    the cooler temperatures, water should be reduced to occasional misting or
    light watering and fertilizer eliminated for about 2 months in winter.
    Gradually resume normal water and fertilizer applications when new growth
    starts. Successful growers report that these plants should not be treated
    too well in winter. They suggest that water and fertilizer applications be
    restricted to every second or third time that Cattleyas are watered and
    fed. The pseudobulbs should shrink and even shrivel a bit during the
    winter rest. In addition, growers indicate that plants should be placed
    high in the greenhouse to receive maximum light.

    GROWING MEDIA: B. harrisoniae grows well mounted on slabs or rafts if
    high humidity can be maintained and sufficient water can be provided.
    Medium sized fir bark produces good results for most growers who use pots.
    Successful growers suggest that these plants grow well in a potting mix
    more like one used for Paphiopedilum than one used with Cattleya. They
    further indicate that fir bark with a little coarse sphagnum and some
    perlite added produce excellent results.

    MISCELLANEOUS NOTES: Because these plants are intolerant of being
    disturbed once established, repotting should be done only when necessary
    and then only when new root growth is starting. When dividing, each
    division should consist of 4-5 pseudobulbs. Growers report that they have
    never found what initiates blooming, and that some plants never bloom.
    Whether or not they were providing the conditions indicated above is not
    known.

  3. #3
    Carolla's Avatar
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    Default

    Well, it is growing mad roots at the moment, so that's a good sign. The seller indicated that Phal type culture should do well for it and it sounds like I'll be able to provide enough to keep it alive and growing. We'll have to see from there.

  4. #4
    Ron-NY is offline rothaholic
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    Default

    good luck with it! It is a beautiful and fragrant species!

  5. #5
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    Its a good looking plant and great info form Ron. Thanks for sharing.

  6. #6
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    I can tell it's happy with your care - look at all the new growth! Can't wait to see how it flowers for you.

  7. #7
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    Phalaenopsis culture..........................This does not include light conditions I hope. Without enough bright light blooms may never happen. Lovely plant. I know where your cultural information comes from and it's good advice though over time you'll vary it somewhat. Best of Luck! AL

  8. #8
    Carolla's Avatar
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    Default

    I'll have to get new pictures one of these days, it's put out a ton of new roots, creeping out all over the basket. So happy! My plan is to hang it over my kitchen sink so I can easily take the basket down, water it, then put it back up. How much more light does it need? My kitchen sink is a southern window and gets pretty hot/bright, so it might be a winter home, rather than a year 'round one. Otherwise I need to sort out my eastern window area and find it a home there, that has worked great for the Phals in the past to get big strong plants and good blooms. I have most of my houseplants there, but in the summer many of my bigger houseplants go out in the yard in the shade. Its a houseplant shuffle!

  9. #9
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    Sounds good to me Carolla........................Glad your orchids are doing super well! AL

  10. #10
    Carolla's Avatar
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    Well, I'm excited! I was watering it today and realized it has TWO new shoots coming up and continuing to put out roots. Time to start feeding it a bit more and see if I can find a place with more light for it. I took pictures, hopefully I'll get them up soon.

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