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Cymbidium in spike.

This is a discussion on Cymbidium in spike. within the **NOT IN BLOOM** All Genera forums, part of the Orchid Photography category; This is a first for me , no idea what the flowers will look like ...

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  1. #1
    uncasteeb's Avatar
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    Default Cymbidium in spike.

    This is a first for me , no idea what the flowers will look like as i bought
    these without labels(well 2 of the standards have).

    I put this 1 into s/h as an experiment & they seem to really love it.
    I also used granular feed(Osmocte) & this seems to have worked out fine.
    There does appear to be other spikes but this 1 is the largest.

  2. #2
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    Oh, I look forward to seeing how the blooms turn out. We finally bloomed a cymbidium that had to have an extreem cold spell before spiking. The plant looked so healthy in the GH, but to get it to spike we had to put it outside. The temps got down near freezing and the plant looked like it was going to die. The leaves yellowed and it spiked. It had really nice pink and white blooms on two spikes.

    Be sure to post a photo of the bloom!

    Cheers!
    BD

  3. #3
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    I really like the Cymbids. but don't have the room for them , just have 2 one is a warm grower , the other a small standard . I will be waiting for a picture of the blooms . Gin

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    Gin i really screwed up.I bought 8 Cymbidiums all are in 10" pots for very little money.I was going to heat the g/h & keep them there.From a bit of experimentation i realised that keeping the g/h @ 10c(50f) minimum was going to work out more expensive then running my growroom.
    So they,ll have to make do with what window space i have & like it.If i had/got another HID/HPS setup i would buy more paphs/phrags & species phals.

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    lolol I would of bought them too , and made room . At one time I had several very large ones in 12 inch plus pots... Then the mealy bugs attacked , it was before home computers for info. or the systemics we have now , I tried to kill the little @#$#@ mealies but it did not work , ended up throwing them out .... hate to think about it . Gin

  6. #6
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    Well the spike is over 20" high with 17 big fat buds.There are another 3 spikes growing on this plant.
    2 of the others are spiking with vengenance.
    7 spikes on 1 & 8 on the other.
    Getting upto 3 spikes per pseudobulb.


    Oh my Cymbidium eburneum has 2 big buds ready to pop as well.
    Well pleased with my first growing season with them.

  7. #7
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    Well Done Steve considering they've had to make do with what space you have aye [IMG]http://www.**********************************************/forum/images/smiles/poke2.gif[/IMG]

    can't wait for the flower pics....

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    That will be quite a show , don't forget to let us see the flowers . Gin

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    Wow, those are nice spikes. Are all the pointy green things in the second picture spikes? That's a lot!

    Looks really healthy. I would guess it's grown inside (from the pics)? I've read that cyms "make poor houseplants". Hmmm...a cym outside in the boiling hot weather in summer (even morning sun is sizzling) among swarms of hungry insects looking for food... . Ok, maybe it's not that bad outside but I got to decide what to do with mine next summer.

    I would love to see the flowers!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by orchidaddict789
    I've read that cyms "make poor houseplants". Hmmm...a cym outside in the boiling hot weather in summer (even morning sun is sizzling) among swarms of hungry insects looking for food... . Ok, maybe it's not that bad outside but I got to decide what to do with mine next summer.

    I would love to see the flowers!
    I grow mine outside year round, but of course we have mild winters. Standard Cymbidiums don't like much it much hotter than 75 to 80 degrees, and need cool nights in the fall to set spikes - say 50. They don't tolerate frost or freezing.

    I grow mine where they get scattered sunlight for a few hours through tree leaves, then bright (but not direct) light the rest of the day. Some tolerate full early morning sun. The minis do seem to tolerate temperature extremes better. As far as bugs - well I only have trouble with snails and slugs. I've got a couple in spike now too, and I'll bring them in once in bloom to enjoy, then back out they go! Inside temps and light just don't work to well trying to get blooms.


    Here is the AOS culture info

    These orchids are prized for their sprays of large flowers, used especially as cut flowers or for corsages in the springtime. There are two main types of cymbidiums--standards and miniatures. Where summers are warm (above 90&#176, only miniatures are recommended, since they are more heat-tolerant and bloom in warmer weather.

    Temperature
    Temperature is the most critical factor in blooming cymbidiums of either type. During the summer, standard cymbidiums are usually grown outside in semi-shade, where day temperatures should be 75°-85° (or more), but night temperatures in the late summer to fall (August to October) must be 50° to 60° to initiate flower spikes. Optimum temperatures in winter are 45°-55° at night and 65°-75° during the day. When in bud, temperatures must be as constant as possible, between 55° and 75°. Miniatures can stand temperatures 5° to 10° higher than standards and still bloom well. Most cymbidiums can stand light frosts and survive, but it is not recommended. Bring them inside when temperatures dip to 40° in mild climates they may be grown outside year 'round. A bright and cool location inside is best for winter months.
    Light
    Light is also very important for growing cymbidiums. Coming from cool and bright areas in Asia, they need high light but cool temperatures. In many of our climates, the high level of light cymbidiums need is accompanied by high temperatures in the summer, which may cause the plants not to bloom. There are several ways of counteracting this: spray the plants with water during summer afternoons to cool the plants down, shade more heavily, and increase air movement. The maximum amount of light possible, short of burning, should be given to the plants. This means only light shade during the middle of the day, or about 20%, shade. In cool areas (e.g. coastal California), full sun is tolerated. Leaves should be a medium to golden green in color, not dark green. Keep shadier in the winter, especially if in bud.
    Water
    Water must be provided at all times to cymbidiums. As semi-terrestrials, they need a fairly constant supply of moisture. Since they produce all their vegetative growth during the spring and summer months, they need the most water then. Water heavily during the growth season, keeping the potting medium from drying out completely, and reduce water when the pseudobulbs are completed in late summer. Keep barely moist during the winter.
    Humidity
    Humidity outdoors is usually sufficient during the summer months, except in dry climates. There, evaporative cooling in a greenhouse, or misting outside, is necessary. Keep humidity at 40%-60% during the winter, especially if plants are in bud. Keep the air moving to prevent fungus spotting (Botrytis) from damaging the flowers.
    Fertilizing
    Fertilizing at the proper time will help cymbidiums bloom. During the growth season (spring through late summer), high-nitrogen fertilizer (like 30-10-10) is used. In late summer, use a high-phosphorus, bloom-booster fertilizer (like 10-30-20), to help form bloom spikes. Fertilize at full strength every week to two weeks. In winter, fertilize only once a month.
    Potting
    Potting must be done about every two years, as the potting medium breaks down, usually in the spring after blooming. Shake all the old potting mix off the roots, dividing the plant if desired. Divisions of green bulbs with leaves must have 3 to 4 bulbs minimum to bloom, bulbs without leaves are considered backbulbs and need special care to grow (see below). Pick a potting mix that will hold moisture well; a medium-grade fir bark with peat moss and perlite is a common mix. Select a pot that will allow for at least 2 to 3 years of pseudobulb growth before crowding the pot, while planning on placing the active growing bulb(s) of the division farthest from the side of the pot. Spread the roots over a cone of the mix in the bottom of the pot, and fill the pot with medium, working it among the roots, tamping firmly. The junction of roots and pseudobulbs should be about l/z to 1" below the top of the mix. Keep shaded, drier at roots but humid, until new roots grow.
    Backbulbs may be left on the division to add strength, or removed to propagate. Take single backbulbs, and bury halfway in a bark or peat/sand mix. Keep shaded and warm until new growth sprouts, and pot as above. It may take up to three years to produce a blooming-size plant from this method

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