Shop Orchid Care OrchidTalk Orchid Forum Weather Station Links Nursery

Welcome to OrchidTalk Orchid Forums


The Friendliest Orchid Community on the Internet!


  •  » Learn to Repot your Orchids
  •  » Learn Orchid Care Tips and Secrets
  •  » Find the perfect Orchid for your Growing Environment
  •  » Chat with Orchid Growing Professionals

OrchidTalk - "Bringing People Together to Grow Orchids Better!"


Let us help you grow your Orchids better; Join our community today.


YES! I want to register an account for free right now!


Register or Login now to remove this advertisement.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20
Like Tree30Likes

A Vanda Experiment

This is a discussion on A Vanda Experiment within the **NOT IN BLOOM** All Genera forums, part of the Orchid Photography category; Originally Posted by raybark There is one aspect of plants that I had forgotten about ...

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size
  1. #11
    Arne's Avatar
    Arne is offline Senior Member
    Real Name
    Arne Schon
    My Grow Area
    Under Lights
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    Brassavola, Broughtonia
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Gender
    Male
    Location
    Baltimore, MD, USA
    Posts
    475
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by raybark View Post
    There is one aspect of plants that I had forgotten about mentioning: adjustment.

    If a plant has been grow under one light level - typically a greenhouse for commercially-obtained orchids - and you bring it home and place it in "lesser" conditions, such as under lights or in a window, it may very well still bloom, but it will likely take a growth cycle or two off, have fewer and/or smaller flowers, and will likely rebloom less frequently going forward.

    In addition to whatever environmental triggers the particular plant relies on to bloom, it also has to have the energy reserves to do so - those sugars and amino acids (among others) that it produces itself through photosynthesis and subsequent processes. A change in lighting may cause the plant to "wait and see" what the future may bring, and may slow the rate at which those reserves are accumulated.

    So, while we should try to give the plant what it expects in nature, the inability to do so does not absolutely mean you cannot grow and bloom them.
    Very well said, Ray. I have a friend in Sweden who grows Vanda of all kinds successfully (Tommy Ljunggren). He always stresses the need for adaptation of the plants to his conditions and they always seem to bloom, maybe not immediately, but after some adaptation time.

  2. #12
    DoreenVDT's Avatar
    DoreenVDT is offline Senior Member
    My Grow Area
    Under Lights
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    pyschopsis
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Gender
    Female
    Location
    Clackamas, Oregon
    Posts
    436

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MattWoelfsen View Post
    How is your experiment growing? Judging from the photo of your subject plants, they do look too dark green. Neofinetia require bright light. You can tell if Vanda Alliance plants are getting enough light by how green the leaves are. The closer to light green--the better. I grow my Vandas under 4 foot long, two tubed, 5400 lumens, LED lights, about 12" above the leaves for 10 hours.
    The Vandas under the 2 tube T8 with sunlight tubes are doing well! Vanda miniatum is in bloom, the some of Neos are in spike. The foliage are light green now. Thank you for your comments.

  3. #13
    MattWoelfsen's Avatar
    MattWoelfsen is offline Senior Member
    My Grow Area
    Sunroom
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    Vanda (Neofinetia) falcata
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Gender
    Male
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana
    Posts
    178
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    That is a good reminder, raybark, regarding new plants and their introduction to their new environment. This is a lesson learned a long time ago. I cannot emulate the plant's environment before I purchased it, that wouldn't impact its acclimatization to my environment. Often times, if the plant is in bloom, flowers and flower buds terminate. My experience with Neofinetia in my environment is that it usually takes an entire year for it to resume what I expect.

    A side note, it seems that new plants acclimate quicker when they are purchased in the Spring time when harsh winter weather has passed. At least that is for my geography: Fort Wayne, Indiana.

  4. #14
    raybark's Avatar
    raybark is online now Senior Member
    Real Name
    Ray Barkalow
    My Grow Area
    Porch/Patio.
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Oak Island NC
    Posts
    1,614

    Default

    When I lived in Louisville KY, a grower there - anyone remember Ward Helphingstein? - recommended that you only buy plants from growers north of you, as the conditions will improve, coming to you farther south.

    I'm sure there was something to that, but I have found it not to be universally true.

  5. #15
    Yug's Avatar
    Yug
    Yug is offline Mostly-Species Snob
    My Grow Area
    Outside 24/7
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    Vanda
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Gender
    Male
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    634
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    I noticed that your leaves look on the dark side. Usually that is a general light-level indicator.

  6. #16
    Arne's Avatar
    Arne is offline Senior Member
    Real Name
    Arne Schon
    My Grow Area
    Under Lights
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    Brassavola, Broughtonia
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Gender
    Male
    Location
    Baltimore, MD, USA
    Posts
    475
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoreenVDT View Post
    About 17 months ago I start this experiment. I would see if I could bloom vandas under T5 fluorescent tube. The vandas are approximates 8 inches under the tube. The light is on now for 15 or 16 hours, I started it off at 12 hours - the tube was new.

    I have yet to get a bloom from this experiment. Though conditions were good enough to develop bloom stems from the vendors I bought the vandas from. I have 10 Neofinita falcatas, a Vanda miniatum and the lone Tolumnia Pink Panther under this tube.

    The Neofinita falcatas that were potted in moss all need re-potting in moss now. Some of them are potted in the Japanese style pots, which I hope to continue. To do that is a interesting challenge.
    Attachment 84038
    So Doreen, how is this going? We are interested.

  7. #17
    DoreenVDT's Avatar
    DoreenVDT is offline Senior Member
    My Grow Area
    Under Lights
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    pyschopsis
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Gender
    Female
    Location
    Clackamas, Oregon
    Posts
    436

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Arne View Post
    So Doreen, how is this going? We are interested.
    I moved the Neos. to the 48 inch 2 tube fixture with daylight bulbs, the Neos. have been blooming all summer. I will take a photo of the new set up.

  8. #18
    Dorsetman's Avatar
    Dorsetman is offline Senior Member
    Real Name
    Geoff Hands
    My Grow Area
    Greenhouse
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    Cattleya ?
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    England, South coast.
    Posts
    3,752
    Member's Country Flag

    Default

    The trigger for blooming in Vandas - and many other vandaceous plants too - e.g. phalaenopsis, is temperature drop.If they are growing well, then take some to a cooler place - a drop of 10 degrees C would be fine - 5 might work, too. A few days ( or nights for example) is usually enough to initiate the flowers, then take back to the warmth and stand back and wait. But not many of those I can see in your pic look big enough. I had a couple of hundred large flowered Vandas at one time, and really big strong plants capable of doing two spikes at once, were 40 or 50 cm high. They did not flower from any of the top 3 or 4 pairs of leaves , so my practice was to pick out plants where the last spike was 5 pairs down, and hang outside for a week - not in the UK winter, but any time when the night time temperature was expected to be in double figures - above 10 C. 3 out of four would respond with a spike visible within a month. Hope this helps !

  9. #19
    DoreenVDT's Avatar
    DoreenVDT is offline Senior Member
    My Grow Area
    Under Lights
    Favorite Orchid(s)
    pyschopsis
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Gender
    Female
    Location
    Clackamas, Oregon
    Posts
    436

    Default

    I have the set up in the dinning room, it gets cooler than the rest of the house. I have no trouble blooming cattleyas and Neos. in that room.

  10. #20
    lakshman sisira kumara is offline Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Gender
    Male
    Posts
    4

    Default

    It looks your Vanda trees color too dark Green. For blooming it require light Green color leaves I suppose.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Experiment!
    By LJA in forum The Pollen Vault
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: October 13th, 2011, 07:59 PM
  2. Replies: 3
    Last Post: August 4th, 2008, 08:10 PM
  3. another experiment
    By bluemoon in forum Breeding & Hybridization
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: December 31st, 2007, 09:56 AM
  4. My Catt Experiment
    By nabakov5 in forum Genus Specific
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: August 15th, 2006, 06:31 PM
  5. Experiment
    By ATester in forum Breeding & Hybridization
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: June 27th, 2005, 03:54 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
OrchidTalk --An Orchid Growers Discussion Forum brought to you by River Valley Orchidworks. A World Community where orchid beginners and experts talk about orchids and share tips on their care, cultivation, and propagation.