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Dealing with Bacterial diseases

This is a discussion on Dealing with Bacterial diseases within the Orchid Ailments / The Compost Pile forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; This is a very sad but thought provoking thread for those of us newer hobbyists ...

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  1. #21
    bumpman is offline Member
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    Dr Denis Wang
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    This is a very sad but thought provoking thread for those of us newer hobbyists with growing collections. As the adage goes, preparing for the worst (environmental and weather conditions) and letting the best take care of itself may be the way to think about creating new orchid facilities (greenhouses and orchid-aria), especially in these days of climate change. I'm so sorry for your losses of plants you've no doubt spent years cultivating and caring for.

  2. #22
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    Jef09071984 is offline Senior Member
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    San to hear those expirience, i havent use any fungicide but i am very willing to learn how to use them. i'm just a bit scared for their side effects.

  3. #23
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    cdayinflorida is offline Senior Member
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    This is from Martin Motes:

    "Removal of
    the leaf or stem is a simple but somewhat drastic solution. If one is loath to lose so much of the plant, the most effective
    treatment for bacterial infection is treatment with cupric hydroxide (Kocide or Champion) which should if possible
    be combined in equal parts with mancozeb(Manzate or Dithane M45).
    This combination is packaged, pre-mixed as Junction. By adding a small amount of water to the chemicals in a jam,
    one can make a slurry that can be brushed on the lesions. An old toothbrush is efficient in applying this and your
    dentist will be happy to have it out of your mouth. Any left over slurry can be placed on a high shelf (brush and all)
    and re-hydrated later. This stuff is also the cure for those soft spots that appear on Phal. leaves in summer.
    Be cautious when making the slurry not to inhale any of the dust and never, never, dust these chemicals
    without wearing a mask.
    For large collections, with extensive damage, one tablespoon per gallon of cupric hydroxide and mancozeb can be
    sprayed. Mix the two and wait an hour or more before spraying. Do not apply this mixture to dendrobiums or to
    bromeliads which are hyper-sensitive to copper."

  4. #24
    jrfehon is offline Senior Member
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    I've experienced a good amount of loss too due to black rot this year. The summer in Philadelphia was wet and my cattleyas were too moist for too long. I lost around 12 or so before I got the rot under control. But like everything else, it was a learning experience. I've decided next spring to upgrade my outdoor tables to have some sort of grating system. Water would get trapped on the flat surface underneath the orchid pots so I need to change that. I'm also going to repot all my cattleyas and most of my other orchids in the spring. The cattleyas I lost were some of the ones I didn't repot this year. Hopefully that will help.

    -Jason

  5. #25
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    opaline is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdayinflorida View Post
    This is from Martin Motes:

    "Removal of
    the leaf or stem is a simple but somewhat drastic solution. If one is loath to lose so much of the plant, the most effective
    treatment for bacterial infection is treatment with cupric hydroxide (Kocide or Champion) which should if possible
    be combined in equal parts with mancozeb(Manzate or Dithane M45).
    This combination is packaged, pre-mixed as Junction. By adding a small amount of water to the chemicals in a jam,
    one can make a slurry that can be brushed on the lesions. An old toothbrush is efficient in applying this and your
    dentist will be happy to have it out of your mouth. Any left over slurry can be placed on a high shelf (brush and all)
    and re-hydrated later. This stuff is also the cure for those soft spots that appear on Phal. leaves in summer.
    Be cautious when making the slurry not to inhale any of the dust and never, never, dust these chemicals
    without wearing a mask.
    For large collections, with extensive damage, one tablespoon per gallon of cupric hydroxide and mancozeb can be
    sprayed. Mix the two and wait an hour or more before spraying. Do not apply this mixture to dendrobiums or to
    bromeliads which are hyper-sensitive to copper."
    I managed to salvage a few amputees of vaying species with the aid of monotonous concentration and time with plenty of ruthless decision making and a dose of sterile methods. Dendro canes were easy and as said in a recent post this time of year (uk) triggers response from dends no matter what their class is so their trauma with harsh tissue removal etc proved no problem to them. My perisiteria elata (dove orchid) was the 1st large psbulb ive operated on and careful measures certainly pay off. Off i go again now to get that systemic wonderous fungicide on the war path and observe as i go.

  6. #26
    cdayinflorida's Avatar
    cdayinflorida is offline Senior Member
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    I had an old perisiteria. Had it for years. I lost it last winter.
    What a funny plant. It seemed to bloom whenever there was a drop in the barometer.

  7. #27
    Lars.Kurth is offline Senior Member
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    I brought back a small bottle of Phyton 27 from the US and did an initial preventative spray on all plants this morning. And a drench with higher concentration on some of the plants which are susceptible to bacterial issues or have had parts removed (i.e. Gongora, Stanhopea). I did loose a few plants, but no plants that took me ages to get. The only one I am quite sorry about is a large Ornithocephalum that basically went glassy over night and could not be salvaged.

    It is actually getting colder now (around freezing) and thus the heating has kicked in a lot. As a result, the greenhouse is much drier. Humidity has dropped a lot. Spring should be on its way soon: so I will only need to get through the next six weeks or so.

  8. #28
    cdayinflorida's Avatar
    cdayinflorida is offline Senior Member
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    Good luck with the plants, Lars.

  9. #29
    opaline's Avatar
    opaline is offline Senior Member
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    I have used 'sulphur bombs' as they are known here in uk. Quite a good oppoortunity this time of year as said with ltd growth/ rest, temp control/ low humidity etc etc. Possibly a pre emptive strike or an extra bit of effort for some extra luck. The smoke drifts within an isolated situ (greenhouse) reaching the parts others cant reach attacking those fungal/ bacterial pathogens we have recently learnt to hate.

    In response to your comment on losses, dont it just confirm that the 'addiction element' couldnt be more true. I accepted the fate of the many deceased orchids with ease? well admitting defeat anyhow. So did i really value the original purchase? or was it pure lust, greed or other sins.? My catasetinae gongoras, corys, stans and all have been allocated a space within my mind to be approached again sometime in the future sooner or later. I insist (with me) that these demand specific specialist care approach/ allocation and attention and certainly not suited to a communal/ mixed collection.

    Inaddition, thee others have been put down to that ever so significant learning curve. The one I miss..............the nanodes medusae. So weird and difficult to obtain the concept of unique and exclusive sucks me in everytime.

    Best of luck with your US obtained Phyton.

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