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Phal with broken-through segement along main vein of leaf

This is a discussion on Phal with broken-through segement along main vein of leaf within the Orchid Ailments / The Compost Pile forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; As the title implies, I think I'm screwed. In the interest of full disclosure I ...

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  1. #1
    Velamen is offline Member
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    Default Phal with broken-through segement along main vein of leaf

    As the title implies, I think I'm screwed. In the interest of full disclosure I bought a phal that was planted in the god-awful sphagnum moss (awful, that is, for this plant) and transplanted it - while still blooming - into a bark medium. I probably shouldn't have done that.

    In any event, related or not, one of the top (and thereby younger) leaves of my still in bloom phal has a segment along its main vein that is broken open. Light can get through though it's very thin and, until now, was unnoticeable. The margin of the broken segment is slightly yellowish. I assume that this main vein is critical for the transport of water and nutrients and that my plant is doomed.

    Please advise. I will nothing unless advised by an expert.

    BTW: I water only once a week. No more. I know that less is more with water.

    Thanks.

    Don (Velamen)

  2. #2
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    Segments of leaf tissue can be removed at any time when removing/ amputating bad tissue. Just ensure exposed wounds are cleaned and sterilised. Some use cinnamon, i use bleach or hyd. peroxide and more often than not wip out my cig lighter and seal the wound with naked flame, a method come vital with me for many species precious bulbs etc- peristeria, gongora etc. Cell membranes all over leaf, keep close observation may require full removal depending on future results, maybe just fine bar a bit disfigured, not permanent though will soon be outta sight outta mind.

    I repot any orchid anytime bloom or not esp. phals. Would deal with bud blast, still has a future, sphag is a slow murder

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    I agree with the above. You can remove the bad section of leaf and dust with some cinnamon to help seal the cut. The plant should be fine... And as for the spag...I repot them too. Sometimes I use spag on top of the bark mix to help keep moisture for my phals that look a little dehydrated. But it has to be changed too often for me too.

  4. #4
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    an interesting thought, I wonder if phals benefit positively or even negatively from a slight acidity that comes from sphag, phrags appreciate a leaning on the ph scale to a more acidic situ whereby sphag is a useful tool. Could it be after all this time a significant factor in the high mortality rates of phals.? or are we just saturated in quantity.? with ref. to overwatering and other factors that dont help in its survival. The contact of sphag to phal is a suprisingly longtime before we get to score a bargain or a treat in the supermarket. Irreversible damage? One for the phd's!

    With the process of elimination and the careful scrutiny of experiments, sphag has likely been a culprit for burned root tip ends, that annoying occurence of fresh green tipped roots turning brown and dried and killing whole new root. An observation where we experience, as growers, a pleasing result only to be dashed. Many orchid root tip ends fail due to some sought of phyto toxicity and because the cause is so close/ so simple we find it difficult to make diagnosis and overlook it. Chemicals are no suprize but tap water is a for and against dilemma when a root division of same reacts differently to each other. If tapwater is used, everything gets a dose but chemicals can be selectively controlled, segregated/ isolated in its use so complicates outcome. I am just not willing to risk losing anymore chids, tillandsia and carniv .plants at the mo due to recent plague of bact. rot cuasing to much loss.

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    I'm concerned about my orchid leaves too, but for a different reason. I have phal and when I purchased them, they were in moss and I tried my hand with that-I was watering once a week and found that they were dry on top and wet in the pot. I bought orchid bark mix and repotted them recently and they seemed to be doing well. Although it seemed the bark was staying dry and I had trouble controlling myself and I watered if the bark seemed dry. I would fill the pot with warm water (I read once warm water was the best) and let the bark soak a bit then I would pour out the water. I also once a week place the pots in my kitchen sink and let the faucet shower around them. I now have what appears to be wrinkled leaves (wrinkling across the width of the leaf) and the leaf feels limp and thin. All the leaves are not like this, some are full and firm and they all have a nice med green color. I'm sure that whatever is wrong is due to something I've done or doing. Please help before I kill my orchids.

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    Thanks so much for the advice.

    Not sure how to excise tissue from so thin a fissure. I have opted to daub with peroxide and sprinkle cinnamon over the fissure.

    Thanks,

    Don

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    At kporchid, phal leaves thin limp and wrinkled indicates severe dehydration due to physical damage, or chemical and or biological. The cells/ membranes, vascular tissues have basically failed and plant has aborted it. Other leaves thick glossy and firm indicate an isolated case with the one leaf bearing in mind that no other signs from the norm have appeared elsewhere. Check the crown (main grow point) and leaf bracts (where leaves join central spine). While physical, bacterial/ fungal nasties may be at work in those hard to see and reach places. Cut leaf away steadily and hygienically.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velamen View Post
    Thanks so much for the advice.

    Not sure how to excise tissue from so thin a fissure. I have opted to daub with peroxide and sprinkle cinnamon over the fissuren
    That's probably just what I would do too.

  9. #9
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    This is exactly what happened with my Phal... It arrived like this and is controlled to the area. It's like this since 4 months now and no spots have spread. What bothers me is that it is in flower and there are no new leaves or no further leaf growth.

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  10. #10
    opaline's Avatar
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    Fine linear splitting on the valley of the leaf is related to a glitch in the matrix.........sorry glitch in the watering regime often simply being irregular. Phals need high humidity and moisture/ water will be exploited by the plant with roots and leaf stomata cells. As water reserves are utilized from a leaf from too little watering or root health problems, the moment the plant takes water the leaf re plumps itself but is slightly hindered by the restriction and restraint on plant tissue. It has reduced its cell capacity to reflect insufficient water but become unprepared for a sudden bloating and splitting arises on the vein valley. Similar to stretch marks after giving birth in a way. It is still an open wound though and risk contracting bacterial/ fungal nasties until sealed biologically or with our intervention. Exposure to too much sun will also cause changes to cell structure and development.

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