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Is this normal? (Rossioglossum)

This is a discussion on Is this normal? (Rossioglossum) within the Orchid Ailments / The Compost Pile forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; The oldest bulb on my Rossioglossum started yellowing and is now almost entirely purplish-brown. It's ...

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  1. #1
    sand_tiger86's Avatar
    sand_tiger86 is offline Senior Member
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    Default Is this normal? (Rossioglossum)

    The oldest bulb on my Rossioglossum started yellowing and is now almost entirely purplish-brown. It's still just as firm as it ever was. I know sometimes Oncidiums do this and Rossioglossums are relatives, but I don't know if it's a fungus or something else? When I got it a few weeks ago, it was all green. I'll show you before/now:

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  2. #2
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    It is rotting, and soon enough will get squishy.

  3. #3
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    My last Rossioglossum did the exact same thing. I don't want know why, though. It's just kind of an automatic reaction as they get in my care. My plants NEVER rot, but these do without fail.

  4. #4
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    Hmm, I wonder if it is due to natural wastage of the plant? I thought that it was the youngest pbulb -which is the smallest one, but this one seems to be quite big? Maybe there is a problem here after all. Keep an eye on it and hope for the best.

  5. #5
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    Could this be a soggy media issue? I'm only suggesting that because you said your last one did the same thing. Do you always pot them in moss? I have my Oncids in bark, and they're extremely happy. In my experience, moss/sphag is notorious for holding too much water. I only use sphag on my tender seedlings and orchids that I get that are in really bad shape (and don't have pseudobulbs to hold water), because they need something that can really hold moisture around the root system. I also use sphag for orchids that I gift to people, because it's easier for a newbie to tell when sphag is dry than bark. But anything I pot in sphag ALWAYS goes in a clay pot to allow it to "breathe," and I pack it loosely to allow for air circulation. Sphag in a plastic pot has always been a recipe for disaster in my experience.

    If you like the moss, perhaps the plant would appreciate a clay pot more. After all, it has pseudobulbs, so it has its own water storage system built-in. It doesn't necessarily need as moist of a media as, say, a phal. Personally, I'd put it in bark, but that's just me. I'm a bit of a bark-a-holic. LOL

    I hope it perks up for you. Sick plants are so depressing. I'm sending your plant some happy vibes...

  6. #6
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    I didn't even notice the moss. I had mine in moss for a week then put it back into bark! I hated the idea of moss for this one. It holds too much water and this oncid. really likes to approach dryness before you next water it. Bark is best in my opinion.

  7. #7
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    It is in bark. The first picture is how it was sent to me from the vendor - some kind of tightly packed, algae infested, wet moss. I repotted it in bark, and it only has a thin layer of sphag on top (otherwise it would dry up too quickly here in Texas). It is in pure bark, though and dries out almost by the next day after watering. The yellowing of that pseudobulb began before I repotted it, when it was in that hot mess the vendor had it growing in that you see in the first picture.

  8. #8
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    In terms of what media's to use Kelly, if it helps I think you have done the right thing. AL

  9. #9
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    Thanks, Al. This method has always worked for me before...I guess I just can't grow these things. Another $45 down the drain.

  10. #10
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    Kelly if this Rossioglossum can just hang in there until your temperatures drop to the fifties F. at night, or at least down to 60 degrees F. overnight, your orchids health might improve. Just as a example, my Rossioglossum Rawdon Jester and Grande are tolerating highs of 80 degrees F. during the day, but it is seldom dropping to less than 65 degrees at night yet. The results are growth, but slow growth and a spike that has just sat there for months...........Thats rather strange. I should go in the fifties in winter for these two orchids, but everything else is warm growing so I really don't think its worth it to go below 60 degrees (That may do the trick though). Hope this helps! AL

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