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  • 2 Post By nicki
  • 1 Post By raybark

Treatment advice for Red/False Mites

This is a discussion on Treatment advice for Red/False Mites within the Orchid Ailments / The Compost Pile forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; I have a small mite problem but I'm not 100% sure which type they are. ...

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  1. #1
    nicki is offline Senior Member
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    Default Treatment advice for Red/False Mites

    I have a small mite problem but I'm not 100% sure which type they are. I was thinking red mites but after doing some reading they might be false mites since there are no webs. But yet other articles lead me away from false mites. I've also read that false are not treated the same as spider. I've been lucky til now not to have any insect threats so this is new and I'm a bit confused.

    It started out on one Aerangis. Now I noticed the same thing with my other. I can see some tiny rust/copper coloring and the leaves are damaged with some white streaking. I did the kleenix test and there are some tiny specs of red. I haven't noticed anything on the other plants but I didn't do a thorough inspection either. The two Aerangis weren't next to each other and I removed the first infected one as a precaution weeks ago. I don't know if the mites have a preference to which plants they take a liking to.

    What is the best product to use? I'd rather get them on the first try than test several things that might work. My collection is indoors but will be easy enough to take outside.
    How often do I need to treat?
    I assume I should treat all the orchids even if they show no signs?


  2. #2
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    tucker85 is offline Senior Member
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    There's an organic product made specifically for mites. It's called Liquid Ladybug. I haven't used it but I've heard that it works. For orchids that are not in bright sunlight, horticultural oil works very well. The one I use is called Organicide but there are others and they all work equally well. Be careful where you spray oil products because they're difficult to clean off and they will stain many surfaces. Orchids with oil on them will burn if put in bright light. I also like insecticide soap for most insects but I've never used it on mites. The process that Dr. Martin Motes talks about in his book "Florida Orchid Growing" is to use a horticultural oil first and then an insecticide soap a week later. No matter what product you use, you need to treat the plants at least twice, a week to 10 days apart. That's to kill any newly hatching eggs. Some growers say to treat a minimum of three times. Be sure to spray the underside of all leaves.

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    Jeff my orchids are kept under lights. Some have leaves that are inches from the bulbs, could that cause burn? I could leave the lights off for a day til the plants fully dry.
    I'm going to make a trip to the big box store to see if they have any of the products you mentioned or something similar. Thanks

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    The easiest, cheapest and safest way to start would probably be insecticide soap. It's readily available in any garden store or big box store. It's not a poison but a soap high in potassium that ruins the protective coating on the insects. Spray it on all surfaces of the plant but make sure to get the undersides of all leaves. A week later do it again. Then monitor the plant once a week by taking a moist white paper towel and wiping it across the undersides of the leaves and look for tiny red spots. If the mites return you could step up to an oil based product which has a little more killing power but is a little more difficult to use because it stains surfaces and requires keeping the plants in lower light for a few days. Oil based products are also widely available at garden stores and big box stores. I don't know how artificial lights affect plants with oil on them. If all else fails you can go to real poisons like Liquid Ladybug.

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    nicki is offline Senior Member
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    I bought Garden Safe Insecticidal Soap. The only oil I saw was a neem oil concentrate. I just finished up treatment and one bottle was just enough for the entire collection. I'll pick up another to treat in a week. Thanks Jeff.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicki View Post
    I bought Garden Safe Insecticidal Soap. The only oil I saw was a neem oil concentrate. I just finished up treatment and one bottle was just enough for the entire collection. I'll pick up another to treat in a week. Thanks Jeff.
    Good move!

    cheers,
    BD

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    SucraShield is effective on the eggs, larvae, pupae, and adults of a wide range of soft-bodied insects and mites, is non-toxic, and is safe for use around bees. A high percentage of the manufacturer's sales are to apiaries for fighting varroa mites.

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    I use Botanigard (Beauvaria).

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