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Disease, burn or otherwise?

This is a discussion on Disease, burn or otherwise? within the Orchid Ailments / The Compost Pile forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; Hi, that is what I've done both times but it still continues to blacken and ...

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  1. #11
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    Hi, that is what I've done both times but it still continues to blacken and move down the leaf...

  2. #12
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    Definitely do not use water on the cut edge. Any drips will spread the bacteria further.

    Cut, then use the cinnamon if you like, then keep the plant drier than usual. Don't water for a week. If you go a week and the rot has not reappeared, take a paper towel & isopropyl alcohol (or peroxide), wipe down the remainder of the leaf. Take a new paper towel & more alcohol, wipe the other leaves.

    Wait another few days. If there is no returning infection, carefully water jus the roots. I would do the alcohol wipe down again.

    If at any point the rot reappears, cut the entire leaf off, be sure to use a sterile blade.
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  3. #13
    ksriramkumar is offline Senior Member
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    Concur with Catt mandu. water is a medium that spreads bacterial spores and is better to keep the leaf dry. avoid watering the leaves for now. keep the leaves dry and use cinnamon as mentioned by catt mandu.

  4. #14
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    To me it looks like the plant is infested with phalaenopsis mites, severe pitting, is usually indicative of the critters. Bayer 3 in 1 works well for me. Diagnosing can be extremely challenging

  5. #15
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    Oh gosh, how do you diagnose Phal mites? Is there some way to see them? I don't have any pitting like that on my plants, but I want to know what to look for if I do!

  6. #16
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    Puppies - unless they are somehow inside the plant, it's clean... also I would expect it to spread to other leaves then rather continuing to rot the edge I cut, no?
    I want to know what to look for just in case though!

    ---------- Post Merged at 05:58 PM ----------

    Catt, as it's a new leaf - if I have to cut it all the way down and the rot starts up AGAIN, would it spread throughout the plant? I'm starting to wonder if I should like wax seal this thing or something...

    Note** Ugg everyone sorry about my grammar, by the time I'm on here I'm usually sleepy or just got up. HAHAHA

  7. #17
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    I don't think a wax seal would help, could make it worse. A cut will heal by itself if it is allowed to air-dry. The cinnamon should help the cut to desiccate which is really what you want. Keep any sap from that leaf off of the rest of the plant.

    Can you post a pic of what it looks like now?

    IMO the best way to fight this is to keep it dry, dry, dry for a while. I know how often we all usually usually like to water a healthy Phal, but keep it in a low stress environment (not to hot, not too much light, not excessively humid) and I think you can keep it pretty dry for a while, even longer than I suggested before. I had a Phal with a rot issue a couple years ago, I withheld water for 2 - 3 weeks but kept it indoors in a low light, 70 degree F room and eventually recovered to bloom again. Most important for you now, you want to get ahead of the rot. I still think you have a good change of stopping this.

  8. #18
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    As for keeping it dry - I often forget to water my Phals for a couple of weeks, it rarely even makes them a bit wrinkled.

  9. #19
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    Here's another picture - in the last 24 hours it's curling and darkening again but so far isn't moving any further down so let's see. I hope it's just bruising this time.
    Name:  leaf2.jpg
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    I won't water him this week and see if that helps as well...

  10. #20
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    Sooooo here's another 24 hours later. -sigh- It looks different this time though - is it just bruising??
    The rest of the leaf is now getting yellower than the others too...
    Name:  3.jpg
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    I hope it's just bruising/dropping it and not killing the phal... -cries-

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