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  • 1 Post By Missanna

Pescatorea lehmannii

This is a discussion on Pescatorea lehmannii within the Orchid Ailments / The Compost Pile forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; This is in a basket with sphagnum orchiata mix. It gets bright shade and grows ...

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  1. #1
    moniluhum is offline Senior Member
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    Default Pescatorea lehmannii

    This is in a basket with sphagnum orchiata mix. It gets bright shade and grows in a stable temperature environment of about 80 to 85 degrees during the day. It starts to grow a leaf and then soon turns yellow and dies off. I keep moist but not soggy. Whats wrong with this picture?Name:  IMG_2982.jpg
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  2. #2
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    kspalding is offline Senior Member
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    Is this something u have had awhile or a some-what if not entirely new aquirement? It could still be bacterial just showing up now. Any new growth?

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    moniluhum is offline Senior Member
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    I have had it for several months. repotted it and yes new leaves do grow but don't have a chance turn yellow. you think bacterial? what do you do for that? Physan?
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  4. #4
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    The best thing to do to check if its bacterial is to remove the plant and check the roots. Is there any black or brown discoloration on a majority of them? Even if not that you can tell I would let the plant dry out a few days and allow the roots plenty of air. This is safest way to observe the situation without making it worse. Over the few days monitor if it continues to spread. My first thought honestly was insects since I had this problem once and it turned out to be snails but since you said u repotted and I am sure u would've noticed if this was the problem I go to my second opinion which is the bacterial option.

  5. #5
    moniluhum is offline Senior Member
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    I honestly have repotted the plant more than once. I think the best thing is to treat it as bacterial. How do you treat bacterial infection?

  6. #6
    Missanna is offline Cattleya lover
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    My friend had an oncidium that the growths would start and begin dying from the tips. It wasn't a mineral thing. I took it, sprayed it with thiophanate methyl (a fungicide)-
    First thing I have to say is that physan only controls surface pathogens.
    For a plant this sick, I would go for a systemic one, but the plant looks so stressed, it may not make it whatever you do. Anyway, there are two systemic fungicides I use. One is thiophanate methyl and the other is fosetyl aluminum. I don't think I can list brand names here, but if you want to pm me I can give you more details. Also, I would highly recommend the orchid pests and diseases books, but the fact of the matter is that you can spray all the chemicals in the world and it doesn't make up for Unsuitable growing conditions. I just checked the culture for this and it does say "cool to warm" growing, but essentially it's probably too hot which is making it weak and vulnerable to infections. The description of high elevations in extremely wet forests in Columbia makes it sound like a cloud forest type with 70 some odd degree days in really high humidity which is impossible under lights in a home unless you have a special chamber.
    I just found this
    "We grow our pescatoreas in our warm greenhouse (64º night minimum) next to the wet wall (subtract 5º from the daytime HIGH of 82º) on a bench immediately adjacent to our propagation zone which receives a near constant blanket of fog from a high pressure fogging system.

    If you get a large evaporative type humidifier, it will blow cool air out if it and if you keep this close to the humidifier, it will be happier. I have a miltoniopsis from my aunt that I keep on my lower, cooler shelf nearest the giant humidifier to keep it cooler than the rest of my orchids and it's doing ok so far, but it's still not thriving.

    The best prevention for losing orchids is to only purchase those that will do well in your conditions. It's hard sometimes and tempting to try to get one you really like that you think you can grow, but for now, put those on your "want list" and if you want them bad enough to build their own growing chamber, then build the chamber first and then fill it with the orchids that will grow in it.

    One last thing: I would ease it out of its pot and put it in a clay one without disturbing the roots. The evaporative nature of the clay pot will help keep the root zone a bit cooler.

    One last last thing: from your posts, it seems that you choose orchids with great fragrance. I would highly suggest sedirea japonica for your growing conditions. It seems to be pretty tough and is easy like a phalaenopsis and mine blooms two or three times a year for me. The fragrance is amazing- reminds me of fruity pebbles or fruit loops. Also, there are a lot of mini cattleyas with a lot of fragrance. One that just finished blooming for me is lc. Mari's magic 'h&r.' Lc mari's song is supposed to be a great one as well. I would avoid any with a lot of cattleya walkeriana in the background. I've had a lc. Summer Christmas 'Maria' that hasn't bloomed since 2010. Standard sized cattleyas can be too big for lights and they take up a lot of room and they don't have hybrid vigor like the species, but a lot of the smaller hybrids have great fragrance and fit well under lights.

  7. #7
    moniluhum is offline Senior Member
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    I only have physan. I sprayed it and moved it indoors under lite artificial lights. I agree its probably a goner. Ugh. I had it in a closed patio under artificial lights where it was cool and somewhat humid. Might need to change it back there. Who knows.

  8. #8
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    First, point a fan at the plant. Second, if you feel regular chemicals will burn the plant, maybe try either a listerene spray or a spray with hydrogen peroxide, making sure you keep the airmovement up so it dries quickly. Then when you water it give it some honey. The honey is easily absorbed if you put it in room temperature water. Try to resist the urge to overwater during it's recovery. Be careful you wash your hands thoroughly after working with this plant so you do not spread the infection to your healthy plants. I spray once a week with physan and switch off every so often and use a systemic fungal bacterial. By keeping a regular spraying habit you will not have to deal with this sort of infection in the future. I find adding in micronutrients such as Silicon and Calmag my plants can fight off these types of issues much better and I have fewer sick plants overall. I learned this from another lady on this website and it has made a huge difference.

  9. #9
    moniluhum is offline Senior Member
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    Interested in the honey you mentioned. What is it's purpose and again how do you administer it?

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