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HOW do you apply cinnamon powder?

This is a discussion on HOW do you apply cinnamon powder? within the Orchid Ailments / The Compost Pile forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; I did a search on cinnamon on here, it is apparently all in posts on ...

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  1. #1
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    Default HOW do you apply cinnamon powder?

    I did a search on cinnamon on here, it is apparently all in posts on diseases, how to save a plant etc.

    I am in the process of killing a Phrag D'Alessandroi Fox Valley, it looks like it has advanced bacterial rot. I wrote to the well known seller from whom I purchased this plant, and he says he uses cinnamon powder for something like this (though he agreed my plant looked too far gone for help.)

    Phrags do get bacterial rot sometimes. Interestingly, none of my other plants in identical conditions (in humidity trays, grates removed, filled with water) got this problem - including other plants purchased from the same grower, in the same shipment.

    The last time I had this problem, I tried to treat it with cinnamon powder and it appeared to do the plant in! I can't figure out how to get the cinnamon powder to go where I want - it all collects in low parts or angles, that may or may not be where I want it to go. It gathers in relative clumps which seems like it might suffocate the plant.

    So, HOW do YOU apply cinnamon powder to get the desired effect?

    p.s. I prefer this not become a thread about dragon's blood (croton sap) or synthetic chemicals. I don't have the former, and won't use the latter. Thanks!

  2. #2
    ksriramkumar is offline Senior Member
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    Applying cinnamon powder is bit tough on unreadable places. Cinnamon powder is usually good for sealing cuts/wounds and bacterial infection on a few places. couple of points

    1. Don't apply cinnamon on roots as it can desiccate them in no time. root health is vital for orchid to come back to normal health.
    2. Spray pharmacy strength hydrogen peroxide (3%) all through the plant and then apply cinnamon powder on the infected spot.
    3. you can also try Cinnamon leaf extract oil.

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    HOW do you get cinnamon powder on a specific spot, is my question. With a toothpick? What prevents it from falling off, or falling into the base of the leaf/plant?

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    Chris in Hamilton is offline Senior Member
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    Make a small amount of paste, just add a few drops of water. Then apply with a that's right, you guessed it, a TOOTHPICK.
    Last edited by Chris in Hamilton; January 15th, 2017 at 04:38 AM.

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    I just keep in my greenhouse one of the pots of cinnamon sold for culinary use , which has a flip lid, and underneath that is a cover perforated with fairly large holes- like 3 or 4 mm. Flip the lid, invert, shake.
    But crown rot is so rare, in my collection of maybe 1500 plants that I wonder if my cinnamon pot is still in the greenhouse- have not needed it for ever. As I have said elsewhere recently, I always add a plant disinfectant to ALL water in the greenhouse. Very weak, but enough to keep all kinds of bacteria and fungal infections away. Maybe the odd smoke with sulphur, which I try to remember to once a m onth helps, although I have only been doing that for 6 months, and I have been using Physan or an equivalent for more than 30 years.

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    ksriramkumar is offline Senior Member
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    you can try with a painting brush. Since it is a powder, it does not stick well if the cut/infection is dry.

    Quote Originally Posted by orchidmanmarin View Post
    HOW do you get cinnamon powder on a specific spot, is my question. With a toothpick? What prevents it from falling off, or falling into the base of the leaf/plant?

  7. #7
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    On cuts, if a fresh enough cut, moisture is present to hold cinnamon. I use a little dish and dump some cinnamon in it then try to get the edge that was cut into the cinnamon I dumped out. And it sticks. I also use a napkin to shield off the areas I don't want cinnamon on, then do targeted cinnamon application.

    If the cut is dry, then it's likely too late for the cinnamon to make a big difference, IMO.

  8. #8
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    From my "Home Remedies" page:

    Those of you who frequent the internet orchid forums know of my “crusade” for the use of cinnamon as a fungicide. I’ve done a lot of digging, and it turns out that the chemicals in the bark have all sorts of medicinal applications (I’ve even cured athlete’s foot with my alcohol extract!)Choose the consistency that is best for your situation:

    • Powder: Apply normal, household cinnamon powder directly to the affected part of the plant by dusting heavily. This has proven to be a good way to control slime mold and mushrooms in the mulch in my outdoor flower beds, too!
    • Poultice: Mix cinnamon powder with sufficient casein-based glue (Elmer’s) to make a thick, brown paste. Apply to the wound and let dry. The Elmer’s Glue is water soluble, but resists washing-off quite well. This is the preference for mounted plants that get watered or misted frequently. An alternative to the Elmer’s Glue, but just as waterproof and long-lasting is made by mixing cinnamon powder and cooking oil to form a thick paste. (Thanks to John Kawamoto!)
    • Spray: You can prepare a cinnamon spray using either alcohol or water as your solvent. The alcohol infusion is faster to prepare, and offers some insecticidal properties as well. This is my preferred method, and has been effective at eliminating all sorts of fungus problems, including damping-off of deflasked seedlings.

      Put 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of cinnamon powder in a pint (500 ml) of isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Shake well and let stand overnight. Filter the solution to remove the sediment (coffee filters work well), and use the brown liquid as a spray. (While it’s not a big problem for most orchid growers, I’ve heard that this is good for powdery mildew, as well.) or…

      Put the cinnamon powder in hot water. Shake well and let stand for several days. Filter and use as above. (Some feel that the alcohol can be too desiccating when used on seedlings.)

      Or you can simplify the process by using a 1%-2% solution of Cinnamon Vogue cinnamon LEAF oil. The leaves contain eugenol, which is a more powerful fungicide than is the cinnamaldehyde in the bark.

  9. #9
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    I know you do not want to use synthetic chemicals but .... if you want to save an orchid sometimes you have to resort to heavy guns. I have used Daconil antifungal which you can easily get just about anywhere (the big blue W store for instance), on some worrying black spots on leaves and pseudo bulbs of a few orchids that came from one seller. The orchids were hard to find, only had a few growths and I did not want to lose them.

    Hydrogen peroxide is my usual go to fungicide and I use it on rotten roots with pretty good success. I use cinnamon as a preventative rather than a cure. Neither one was working on these spots. Daconil dried them up and the spots have not grown and now a few months later the black spots have healed over. I used it on a tiny phal that appeared to have stem rot. The seller replaced it but I still tried to save it. It stopped dying and is finally showing signs of producing new roots. I have a young Sediera japonica that had a small spot of decay on the side of the stem near the roots. It lost a leaf there and I understand that these guys are very susceptible to rot so I was worried. Daconil and keeping the area dry cured it.

    Daconil could be unsafe if you drank a bottle of it every day and you don't want to dump it in waterways since it can be harmful to aquatic life. Used carefully the worse thing is can do to you is cause a mild allergic reaction. It is a jelly like stuff so doesn't spray very well even though it comes as a spray. I dab it on with a Q-tip (which I also use for cinnamon). I haven't died from using it.

    The active ingredient in cinnamon is a chemical maybe not synthetic but still a chemical. Many orchid enthusiasts that I follow decided that losing valuable orchids by going the biologic control route was not worth it. You will lose your plants.

    I had some dendrobiums that were infested with a tiny mealybug. None of the usual non-toxic treatments (alcohol or soap or Listerine) worked. The dens were slowly declining. So, it was either throw them out or get out the chemicals. Finally I dunked the entire plant in Bayer Tree and Shrub that has Imidacloprid as the active ingredient. That solved it. I never saw another one on the dens. I use it on all my ornamentals that come in for the winter or else I get white fly and other things infesting everything in the house.

    Synthetic chemicals are not bad things as long as they are used responsibly.

  10. #10
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    Love the glue method! I'll have to try the alcohol thing outside in the summer. The way the weather has changed has lead to huge mildew problems in my garden.

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