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My cymbidium of the month - another NOID

This is a discussion on My cymbidium of the month - another NOID within the Orchids of Other Genera IN BLOOM forums, part of the Orchid Photography category; The other cymbidium I posted is starting to fade after about 2 months. So back ...

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  1. #1
    wetfeet101b's Avatar
    wetfeet101b is offline It's not dead! It's just permanently dormant.
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    Default My cymbidium of the month - another NOID

    The other cymbidium I posted is starting to fade after about 2 months.
    So back it goes to the garden and in comes this other NOID that has just fully opened.

    It does not have the same monster foliage as the previous cymbidium, but the flowers are huge.


    Close up. It is still waking up.
    It is hard to capture on this camera, but the lip has a velvety texture to it.


    Here's my hand for size comparison.


    I am sure this had a proper tag long ago but was lost throughout subsequent dividing and repotting and miscellaneous mishaps.

    So for now I am calling it "NOID - March Bloomer"
    Any ideas on what it could be?

    I also have another cymbidium in the GH with buds starting to swell. If the timing works out it could be fully open by April.
    I might end up with at least one cymbidium in bloom for each month


    ~John

  2. #2
    wetfeet101b's Avatar
    wetfeet101b is offline It's not dead! It's just permanently dormant.
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    Just a follow up:
    From my experience, when I buy a cymbidium in bloom it would have dozens of flowers although each flower is smaller.

    Once I get them to rebloom, I cant get them to produce more than 12 flowers on a spike, but each flower is significantly bigger than the original flowers. In this case, the flowers are almost twice as big as when I originally bought it a few years ago.

    Could it be due to growing conditions? or am I having an excess/deficiency of certain nutrients?

    This is the same plant, on its first rebloom two or three years ago. The petals back then looked a bit skinny compared to flowers now - or maybe the new flowers just need more time to stretch their arms.
    Look I still have the same decorative pot

  3. #3
    Brutal_Dreamer's Avatar
    Brutal_Dreamer is offline Dreaming with my eyes open...
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    Interesting to see the same plant that way and compare the blooms. It really is a beauty of a cym.

    Cheers,
    B D

  4. #4
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    They sure are better this time nice and plump ? Very beautiful .. Gin

  5. #5
    ischel1's Avatar
    ischel1 is offline Senior Member
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    So lovely John. I really like cymbs but find that my buds blast, not enough cold, I suspect.

  6. #6
    Tmai's Avatar
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    Pretty cymb, John. Are they difficult to grow in S. Cal? I've been told that cymbs have a hard time here in north FL due to heat. And I have the opposite prob with bloom size - buy 'em big, they rebloom smaller.
    Tami

  7. #7
    wetfeet101b's Avatar
    wetfeet101b is offline It's not dead! It's just permanently dormant.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ischel1 View Post
    So lovely John. I really like cymbs but find that my buds blast, not enough cold, I suspect.
    You only need to keep them cold when they are growing new pseudobulbs - this is the time when they are forming the flower spike inside.

    Once the spike emerges, they will need to be kept "just cool" but not cold. At that point, take normal precautions that you would take for cattleyas and dendrobiums in spike.


    Tami,
    What are your temp highs/lows in your area?
    Over here in Riverside, summers can reach 110F with about 50% humidity. Winters are relatively mild, maybe 35F at the lowest except for some freak winter blasts.

    My cymbidiums go through these seasonal extremes just fine. I just have to make adjustments as necessary.

    Hot season:
    1. Water more often. The cymbidium foliage makes for a very thirsty plant. At the peak of summer I could be watering the cyms every 2-3 days.
    2. Provide shade - 40%-50%. Bright light plus hot weather forces the plants to transpirate more water. The large surface area of the leaves also speed up this transpiration so you need to replenish their water.

    Cool Season (transition to "cold"):
    1. I leave them outdoors in full sun - elevated from the ground to avoid ants/slugs/snails.
    2. Water less frequently as they dont transpirate much at this time.
    3. Also, watch out for new growth as they are susceptible to rot/insects when young.
    4. Spikes usually emerge as the cool weather fades and transitions into warm weather.

    *If it gets really cold (35F and lower), I bring them inside the GH.
    Usually, when my cyms get lower than 30F they drop all their leaves but mature pseudobulbs are ok. When this happens it is usually a 2-3 year wait before I see flowers again.

    *When spikes emerge during the cool/cold season, I bring them in the GH to protect the flower buds.
    When the flowers are open, I bring them indoors for display


    In the coastal areas of Southern California, you can leave cymbidiums outdoors year round and they love it.

  8. #8
    scopinox's Avatar
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    Nice job growing those John! I just love cymbidiums. They're so forgiving and grow really well here.

    As to bloom size, I'm no expert, but it could be that you grow them in higher light conditions than before you bought them. That would explain the heavier quality of the blooms and the fewer flowers compared to previous years. How bout pushing it somewhere darker (say against a north facing wall) next year when you see the first signs of spiking, and then we can compare?

  9. #9
    Kerry's Avatar
    Kerry is offline Too much to learn, let alone re-member!
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    Very nice!

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