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Temperatures and Semi-Hydro

This is a discussion on Temperatures and Semi-Hydro within the Semi Hydro / Lights / Greenhouses / Accessories forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; I would very much like to see the photo....

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  1. #11
    Cinderella is offline Senior Member
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    I would very much like to see the photo.

  2. #12
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    Hi Garland,

    Same thing with my newly repotted Paph venustum. I cut the leaf that had the brown spot (actually half the leaf but in the middle part). Then flushed the whole pot with water, about three times. The leaf with the 'burn' kept dying after I had cut it back to the green bit, but at least now, none of the other leaves are showing the same signs... I can only put it to a new fertiliser which I got becoz I was told at the hydroponics shop that it was good for growing plants by hydroponics.

    Good luck with the phrag.. hopefully it gets through it...

    Cheers
    tim

  3. #13
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    Thought I'd throw in a few cents here.... Leaf tip die-back isn't always caused by applications of too much fertilizer. It can also happen if you let a plant's roots get too dry and then you water. The sudden moisture intake will rush the dissolved solids *already inside the plant* to the leaf tips, so make sure, especially with phrags, that you keep the moisture levels as even as possible. Same goes for tiny seedlings: a series of wet-dry cycles instead of consistent dampness is a no-no.

  4. #14
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    Good info, Louis - thanks!

    Julie

  5. #15
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    Hope I am not thread-stealing here but I was very interested in what you posted, Louis, because one of my L. Anceps plants that I just repotted has leaf die-back and I did not fertilize it at all (after the repot about 2 weeks ago). I also have it in my Brassia. What do you do, just cut off all the tips about an inch into the green? Thanks!
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  6. #16
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    Just re-posting this leaf die-back issue in case anybody sees it....

  7. #17
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    Yes cut it back about 1" below the effected area .Treat the end with cinnamon or anti-fungal.Cross your fingers & hope it stops !

  8. #18
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    Debbie, yes, that's about all you can do at this point. To keep the problem from recurring, water more often so that the wet-dry spells aren't so distinct.

    Oops, just saw uncasteeb replied already.... ok!

  9. #19
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    Default Phrag Die-Back

    Here are the photos of my poor plant as requested. After two weeks, the "infection" seems to have stopped. I was ready to whack it again and apply the anti-fungal if necessary. I'll still keep an eye on it and cut it off proper when the plant blooms.

    This thing began with the tips turning yellow then brown as shown. The yellow moved QUICKLY down the leaf but I was keeping an eye on it. The first cut I did apparently did not do the trick. The infection progressed. I cut it again and it seems to have stopped in spite of the yellow section still apparent.

    Here is one more reason to not have too many plants so that you can easily keep a sharp eye on them all! I may have missed this plant had it been jammed in a corner somewhere.

    After reading Louis's reply regarding letting phrags go dry...this plant has a voracious thirst and it has gone dry in a day or two on many occasions. Either this or the fertilizer burn is to blame so I'm watching BOTH conditions!

    Hope this helps!
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  10. #20
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    When you cut off a burnt or brown leaf tip, do you really need to go 1" below as Steve suggests? My reaction would be to cut through green healthy leaf just below. Why would you need to go more than that?

    Julie

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