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  • 1 Post By Dorsetman
  • 3 Post By Dorsetman
  • 1 Post By catttan
  • 1 Post By moniluhum

300 watt LED full spectrum lighting system

This is a discussion on 300 watt LED full spectrum lighting system within the Semi Hydro / Lights / Greenhouses / Accessories forums, part of the Orchid Culture category; Purchased the above to experiment more with LED lighting. Have 13w single LED lights which ...

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  1. #1
    moniluhum is offline Senior Member
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    Default 300 watt LED full spectrum lighting system

    Purchased the above to experiment more with LED lighting. Have 13w single LED lights which I have used on pals and they seem to be doing well. With such high wattage what distance should there be from the plants. Does anyone have a similar system?

  2. #2
    ksriramkumar is offline Senior Member
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    not sure on this.

  3. #3
    Dorsetman's Avatar
    Dorsetman is offline Senior Member
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    I have been using a similar system on my cattleyas - actually mine is a 185watt system designed by Phillips, the Dutch electronic company, although not made by them - this has replaced several 400 watt metal ballast lamps on a light track, ( and reduced my electricity cost a large amount ).
    The normal reason for putting lamps high was that as well as light (good) they produce heat (bad). Since LEDs produce no heat at all ( well only a very tiny amount) I have the LEDs low enough to just miss hitting the top of the plants.
    I intend to get more , but the Company who made mine have gone bust, and I have not yet found an alternative ( in UK).

    ---------- Post Merged at 01:49 PM ----------

    I have been using a similar system on my cattleyas - actually mine is a 185watt system designed by Phillips, the Dutch electronic company, although not made by them - this has replaced several 400 watt metal ballast lamps on a light track, ( and reduced my electricity cost a large amount ).
    The normal reason for putting lamps high was that as well as light (good) they produce heat (bad). Since LEDs produce no heat at all ( well only a very tiny amount) I have the LEDs low enough to just miss hitting the top of the plants.
    I intend to get more , but the Company who made mine have gone bust, and I have not yet found an alternative ( in UK).

    ---------- Post Merged at 01:53 PM ----------

    I should have said that my 185 watt is made up of one infra-red LED, several red ones, a number of blue ones, and the rest white ; the proportion of each is carefully calculated ( that's where the design comes in). Phillips work - which you can find on the web, has shown that plants need light at one wavelength - hence colour - to produce sugars, another wavelength for other compounds needed by the plant, and a third for yet more.... thinking that the plant only produces sugars is an oversimplification. It is all fascinating stuff, and the lighting trade is not able to offer much help ( in UK at least) - but the info is there, if you go and look for it.

  4. #4
    Dorsetman's Avatar
    Dorsetman is offline Senior Member
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    Default More about my LED system

    Name:  Led1.jpg
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    I thought the pics would be useful. Self-explanatory ? The light is on a track - moves back and forth. Some plants are in S/H - in blue trays , the others not ( yet). The lighting unit is about one foot square.
    This is supplementary lighting . The natural daylight is good enough for most things in most of the greenhouse, but this is the darkest corner, and cattleyas need more than most orchids.
    I used to worry about trying to use lights in the winter but not in the summer, and what should I do ? Run for 12 hours a day from October to March and then switch off ? Or try to adjust the timer every month to go from say 12 hours in December to 5 in May before switching off until August, and so on. Now - because the running costs are so low, I have them on for 8 hours a day all the year except May-July. If anyone has any better ideas, just shout please, but btw, conventional photo-electric cells are no use , in the same way as a conventional photometer/light meter is no use , when you move away from full spectrum to selected wavelengths. There is appropriate kit, but it measures energy at specific nano-wavelengths - way over my head and way out of my budget !.
    I have just remembered what one of the wavelengths is for - it is the peak for production of atp - which is the powerhouse of the plant in growth ( adeno-tri-phosphate, from memory ). And how interesting- to anyone biology-minded (me) - its the same stuff as used in our bodies for the same purpose....

  5. #5
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    I don't need artificial lighting but thanks for the very enlightening info.

  6. #6
    moniluhum is offline Senior Member
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    I noticed the lights are very close to the plants. Mine is 300watts and I have them about 16 inches from the tallest leaf. It is set in one position. Name:  Led kight - 1.jpg
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Size:  52.6 KB Do not have plants in the middle for fear it might be to strong.

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