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Thread: Red root tips on phals and another question

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  1. #1
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    Default Red root tips on phals and another question

    Hi folks!
    I recently moved my 3 largest phals (all NOID hybrids) to a large window that gets sun most of the day. I was hoping maybe it would force them to spike since I'm not sure they're getting enough light where I normally keep them. I noticed that the tips of the roots on the healthiest one are a deep maroon. Is this just from getting lots of light, like the leaves do sometimes? Should it take it as a sign to move them a bit further away from the window?


    On another note: I'm concerned about one of the others (that only seems to ever have 3 leaves at a time); the newest leaf is green and looks healthy but is much softer to the touch than its other leaves - or the leaves of any other phal I have. I have it in s/h and the roots were pretty good when I put it in there. I can see a couple of thick green roots through the translucent pot, but I don't think it has a whole lot of roots to begin with. Should I just keep an eye on it? It's in the same big window with lots of light.

    Thanks!

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    Chlorophyll occurs in Phalaenopsis roots - probably one stage in its production happens there- which by the way does not mean that they must be grown in trasparent pots to allow light to get to them - the chlorophyll cannot actually do anything in roots,I won't go any further about why not, just at present, but will explain if so asked.
    But there are actually two forms of chlorophyll ; one is red, the other is green. Most plants have a mixture of both , and differences in the colour of leaves is due to different proportions in the mixture. Plants turn red with excess light, because the red form of chlorophyll is being favoured.
    Here in UK by the way we have some red leaved trees - Copper Beech for example, and I have an ornamental apple ( Malus something or other) outside my front door, with very dark red, almost black leaves. I guess the green form of chlorophyll hardly exists in them.

  3. #3
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    And by the way, light is not very important for production of Phalaenopsis flower spikes ; temperature is the key. Below60 degrees F., flower spikes will be initiated, but the plant won't grow. Above 70 the plant will grow well, but won't flower. Commercial production is geared around th4se known facts - the plants are kept permanently warm until of the required size, then permanently cool until the spikes are started and growing nicely, then the plants are sold. Light is only important in the sense of some light is needed for growth- but Phals are not high light plants.

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    Thanks Geoff! I've basically been trying everything I can think of, this was just a new "abuse" to attempt getting spikes. At the very least, the temperature will be higher than it is in my normal grow area and once I move them maybe the shift will initiate spikes. I'm thinking my basement would be a great place for a temp drop, but I need to get some more grow lights if I move them there. They won't get enough (if any) light otherwise.

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    Also with temperature duration of light is a key factor in flower spike initiation in Phalaenopsis. Most Phal. species are subtropical where every fall they are subjected to shorter days, these shorter days coupled with temperature differences initiate spikes. The same is true of most sub-tropical orchids.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dorsetman View Post
    And by the way, light is not very important for production of Phalaenopsis flower spikes ; temperature is the key. Below60 degrees F., flower spikes will be initiated, but the plant won't grow. Above 70 the plant will grow well, but won't flower. Commercial production is geared around th4se known facts - the plants are kept permanently warm until of the required size, then permanently cool until the spikes are started and growing nicely, then the plants are sold. Light is only important in the sense of some light is needed for growth- but Phals are not high light plants.

  6. #6
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    Geoff even though the two chlorophylls exist (A and B) the dark red color of the leaves or roots is not due to Chlorophylls but due to anthocyanins.Chlorophyll A is green in color and Chlorophyll B is yellow in color. There exists a Chlorophyll C which is reddish brown in color but it is found only in certain marine algae but not in any land plants. Chlorophyll B and C can only act as accessory pigment, Chlorophyll A constitutes the main reaction centre, so the green chlorophyll is essential for all plants and algae. Anthocyanins on the other hand are color pigments that act as a natural sun screen just as melanin does in animals. The dark red/ brown color absorbs the UV and the blue light which has the most amount of energy and can cause photo damage to chlorophyll reaction centres.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dorsetman View Post
    Chlorophyll occurs in Phalaenopsis roots - probably one stage in its production happens there- which by the way does not mean that they must be grown in trasparent pots to allow light to get to them - the chlorophyll cannot actually do anything in roots,I won't go any further about why not, just at present, but will explain if so asked.
    But there are actually two forms of chlorophyll ; one is red, the other is green. Most plants have a mixture of both , and differences in the colour of leaves is due to different proportions in the mixture. Plants turn red with excess light, because the red form of chlorophyll is being favoured.
    Here in UK by the way we have some red leaved trees - Copper Beech for example, and I have an ornamental apple ( Malus something or other) outside my front door, with very dark red, almost black leaves. I guess the green form of chlorophyll hardly exists in them.

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    I can't add anything other than fat jewel tipped roots are usually an indication of a healthy plant. Good growing.

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    In an attempt to answer my own question regarding the leaves, I think it was simply too hot where I had them. Or maybe too bright. I moved them back to my normal growing space and they've started to stiffen up again. Looks like I may have sunburned a couple of leaves, but otherwise they seem alright. Looks like I'll have to try plan E haha

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    as long as they were not in full sun, they should bloom better and grow stronger with more light. but this depends on really whether or not they were getting enough light before moving them. the red root tips are from stornger light, and not really harmful in my experience. when moving orchids to stronger light, do it gradually and you will have better luck. suddenly going from shade to bright light is an adjustment, and can cause problems with growth, by stunting leaves, going dormant and stopping growth, and burn marks even if not in full sun. as for the 'soft growth' all my phals's new leaves are soft at first, then harden off when they stop growing, so unless the leaf is otherwise growing unusually, might not be an issue at all.

  10. #10
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    I noticed after a few days that all the leaves on all 3 phals were softer, so I think they were in too strong of a light. I may be able to move them back a little from the window with better luck.

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