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Thread: Thrips are driving me mad....

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  1. #1
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    Geoff Hands
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    Default Thrips are driving me mad....

    I am getting flower buds, sometimes even whole spikes destroyed by thrips. Personally I cannot even see them, ( my eyesight is deteriorating with "age related macular degeneration" and some retinal damage caused by operations to repair detached retina etc) and they are extremely small. But younger visitors say they have seen them - tiny black dots.
    I think I have had them in my greenhouse for years, when I grew a different set of orchids, and I complained that I could not get clean foliage on my soft leaved oncidiums - the ones which used to be called odontoglossums. It was only when I started growing cymbidiums, with much thicker and harder leaves that the characteristic bulls eye markings, so obvious when the leaves are seen against a strong light, such as the evening sun shining almost horizontally into the greenhouse, that the thrips identification was made. Then I realised that the "dirty" leaves were actually the same thing but much smaller, and so many that they made the leaf look dirty. I had no problem with flowers though, nor did I with most cymbidium flowers, at least not the usual run of modern novelty hybrids. I did buy a few of some new Japanese bred hybrids like Eastern Bunny, and suddenly I was losing whole spikes.
    Most people seem to think that thrips means Western Thrips, which I understand are creamy in colour and a lot bigger than my kind.
    I read up about them, seems there are thousands of species, all different, and what kills one ( e.g. The biological cucumerin thingy,) doesnt work with others.
    So, when I had that cymbidium problem, and found out the life history - probably goes egg, grub which does the feeding, then a spell in the soil/compost doing the metamorphosis into the flying insect, I realised that spraying is only going to work by contact, and not on the larva in the soil. And another complication is that in warm weather, the flying stage lasts just hours, and the sap sucking and hence plant damaging stage may only last a few days - so the chance of catching them is not high.
    Enter systemics, and soil drenches to tray and catch them at all stages. That bad cymidium year, maybe 2015, I tried many different chemicals doing all of these things. With a large greenhouse it sometimes cost $25 to do the whole lot with one chemical, so I must have spent hundreds...and then I got problems with oncidiums not flowering or producing tiny distorted flowers due to chemical damage.
    My cattleya phase is very recent. I have now got upto maybe two or three hundred plants mostly at or approaching flowering size, and now have a dozen or more in flower most of the time- this is all very recent, as I say. But now I am getting spike damage on the cattleyas, and at a count today I found almost one in three of the newly opening spikes have damage.
    I sprayed all plants in the house with Provado systemic (Bayer) in Seprember, so it looks as though it was ineffective. There is one other systemic easily available in UK (Bug Clear) and I'll try that tomorrow.
    Obviously my sulphur vapour weekly treatment is not helping this problem. I wonder if any other fumigant might ? Or anything else ? Help !

  2. #2
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    I used to use nicotine smoke bombs in the greenhouses Geoff but they are no longer available here along with most anything else. Sticky strips will work to some extent and parasitic wasps might be an option.

  3. #3
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    Ray Barkalow
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    Default

    Geoff,

    Imidicloprid and acephate are both effective on thrips, but you do have to do three treatments at one-week intervals, as they only kill adults.

    One way to extend/expand the effectiveness of your treatment is to add an insect growth regulator to the insecticide. I have only used kinoprene S, sold as Enstar here in the US. It is pretty pricey as well, but so are your plants!

    Don't forget, insects don't just damage flowers, they are very effective disease-spreading vectors, as well.

  4. #4
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    Yew-Sung
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    I can vouch for imidacloprid. Very effective on thrips.

  5. #5
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    Sorry to hear about that Geoff. I have had reasonable success with pheromone coated glue traps along with imidacloprid. I just hang glue traps at foliage height and gives me a reasonable assessment of pests in the grow area. Most of the adult thrips and white fly get caught there and striving ones gets killed by Imidacloprid or a bi-weekly neem extract spray.

  6. #6
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    Geoff Hands
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    I hung a dozen traps as near to the cattleya bench as i could get them , ( i have lamps on light tracks, travelling back and dorth above the plants as close to the leaves as i can get them ) and 12 hours later found 4 or 5 very small flying insects on th one trap nearest half a dozen plants in flower. This looks like the best possibility, in view of the limitations in number of applications of sprayed stuff ithout damage, although maybe Neem would be an exception.

  7. #7
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    Traps do work if implemented right Majorly they are 3 different colors (hot pink, bright blue and yellow) and each of them attract a different pest and secondly some are quoted with pheromone and some are not. Yellow and Hot pink are found suitable for thrips and blue for white flies, winged aphids, leaf miners and midge. Can you help understand which one you are using?.

  8. #8
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    Ray Barkalow
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    What limitations are you concerned about with insecticides, and what damage? Unless I have used a product known to be toxic to a particular plant (copper-based stuff for example for delicate plants), or improperly mixed the product, I have never seen damage.

    Neem oil is "OK" at best, in my book, and the oil can burn plants. Purified azadirachtin (the active ingredient in neem), on the other hand (I buy Azamax) is actually quite good.

  9. #9
    Real Name
    Geoff Hands
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksriramkumar View Post
    hey are 3 different colors (hot pink, bright blue and yellow) and each of them attract a different pest and secondly some are quoted with pheromone and some are not. Yellow and Hot pink are found suitable for thrips and blue for white flies, winged aphids, leaf miners and midge. .
    Thank you for all this Sriram - it is news to me ! I thought they were just flue on a yellow plastic strip.

    Will go shopping on the internet now, and see what I can find. Targeted glue trips ! I need them.

  10. #10
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    Suggest you mix match colors but buy ones with pheromones. May be there might be a few color blind ones :-)

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