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Thread: Culture Transfer

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  1. #1
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    Brandon
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    Default Culture Transfer

    Hello, this is V. Mimi Palmer “WOW” it arrived to me in this condition except for the basket that was my doing. It came bare root no basket. Also with the fungal spots on the leaves unfortunately . Now my question is when I initially transfered into the cedar basket root tips emerged. However now they’re stalling. I’ve upped the humidity and stayed consistent with watering. I think with a temperate climate and bare root culture it’s difficult for these to thrive unless in a greenhouse. So should I give up bareroot and go ahead with potted/ vase culture? My other vandaceous types love it. I was hoping for success with atleast one bare root but oh well.
    Pics of: full stem, root mass, emerging root growth.






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  2. #2
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    Looks like it is drying out.

  3. #3
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    Brandon
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    @YUG I know she looks sad , I’m soaking everyday for an hour but this is what it’s doing. I give it the correct dosages of feed and still root growth is stagnant. I’m wanting another opinion. Is it time to stop with the hanging baskets and just switch over to pot/ vase culture or should I still give it a chance.
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  4. #4
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    Zainal Abidin Bin Othman
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    I know the plant is dehydrated not to worry regular spraying twice a day do help and I also got the plants even worse than yours put under the shade with sphagnum moss cover at the roots level it's will take at least 12 weeks or more for the leaves back to normal provided the roots system improve.

  5. #5
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    Papilionanda Mimi Palmer (formerly Vanda Mimi Palmer) will grow as a giant plant, that's why they are always grown bare root here. It looks dehydrated, but since you said that you have soaked it, maybe the wrinkles just won't go away (it always happened).

    May I know how long you have this plant? When I first bought my Pda. Mimi Palmer it took more than 5 months for it to grow a single new root. If you just received it, I would not expect it will grow so quickly since it needs time to adapt to new home. New root tips are sensitive to fertilizer sometimes, so you may want to consider to use more diluted fertlizer.

    Since my Pda. Mimi Palmer is a slow grower, the only way to know if it is doing alright is by monitoring the new leaf growth. If the new leaf is growing longer with time, it's a good sign. Patience is a virtue.

    Give it plenty of sunlight, warmth and high humidity, it will be happy. I grow mine with direct sunlight but lots of air movement because stagnant air makes the heat to be unbearable for the plant.

    You can cut the leaves with black spots if you want by using sterilize equipment and use fungicide.

    Hope this helps.

  6. #6
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    Arne Schon
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    I agree with what everyone has sad so far. I just want to point out that the plant is probably going through a period of serious adaptation from wherever it was grown before. Maybe it was grown in Florida or in a greenhouse with perfectly controlled humidity. That means that if you just can keep up with the hydration for some months through the summer when the humidity is going to be much higher anyway, you probably have a plant that is more tolerant to your conditions. It has happened several times with my Vandas after I just bought them. I have only had one single plant that never could adapt and that one was imported directly from Thailand.

  7. #7
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    Brandon
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    She’s been with me two months. Agreed it’ll take a couple more moths to acclimate. But I want you to have a look at one in vase culture. This is V. denisoniana. I find in Canada( other temperate climates aswell) where we dont benefit from a consistently warm and humid environment vase/ potted culture is more successful from my experience. I will transfer Mimi Palmer into a pot/ vase soon. It’s too difficult to provide the necessary humidity the roots need to thrive in my part of the globe bare. So I conclude bare root and hanging is appropriate for those in areas such as Florida or those with greenhouses. Others that are not as fortunate to be with those advantages are better of potted/ in a vase.


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  8. #8
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    I know this method but not very experienced with it. If you think the vase method works for you and suitable for your growing environment then go for it. Bear in mind that most Vanda alliance has the potential to grow as giant plant, so along the way you will need bigger container as it grows.

    And I forgot to mention that, don't expect they will flower so soon either. Most of my Vanda took 1.5 to 2 years (some even longer than that) to rebloom. One more thing, if your tap water is hard water, don't use it because it will damage the roots of Vanda.

    Living in temperate climate isn't such a bad thing. I'm sure there are orchids that could benefit from temperate climate. Maybe you could venture into those type of orchids instead of the warm growers (not a discouragement though). Always do research before buying an orchid, whether it would suit your growing environment.

  9. #9
    Real Name
    Brandon
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    @Azizan yes its one of the features I enjoy very much about these orchids. The large and long foliage. I can be patient with the flowers. I use distilled water for them and they get soaked 3x a week when in the vases. Yes there are beautiful cool growers out there but growing up with phals the vanda caught my eyes right away. I have a crush on them and many monopodials. I should give miltonias, zygopetalums and masdevallias a try.
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  10. #10
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    Arne Schon
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    I like your attitude Brandon. If you find that the vase will work then do that.

    I live in Baltimore so our climate is a bit warmer than yours but far from subtropical. I would not recommend Miltonias or Masdevallias because they are not very forgiving of low humidity. Since you like spectacular flowers and can provide high light (I'm assuming), why not Cattleya, Brassavola, Broughtonia etc? For instance, my avatar is a Broughtonia sanguinea that I bought in 2003 while I lived in an apartment without even a balcony. Since then I have divided it into five plants that are as big as the mother plant

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