How to bloom Cattleya amethystoglossa ?

[tucker85]

I've had a c. amethystoglossa for a couple of years. It grows well and has lots of good strong roots but it's never bloomed. Has anyone been successful blooming these orchids? Whats the secret?

[Brutal_Dreamer]

Seems like in Florida you should be able to easily bloom this orchid. I looked up some information for you:

Temp: 84-85 F day and 68-71 F night
Light 2500-3500 Foot candles and Strong air movement at all times is recommended.Charles Baker reports plants growing in full sun, but Fowlie reported that in the habitat their leaves are protected by a hard resinous coat of lichen which covers the leaf surface and prevents evaporation, so be careful when introducing this plant into brighter conditions when this lichen is not present.
Humidity 80-85% year round

A rest period is not indicated by the climate data, although Dr. Fowlie indicated that these plants bloom, "after a distinct, prolonged period of rest". Water should be reduced in winter, especially if light is low, days are short, or temperatures cool. However, they should not be allowed to remain completely dry for more than a few days. (Charles Baker)

Hope this helps!

cheers,
BD

[Halloamey]

I have never bloomed it, but last year I bloomed an interglossa (intermedia x amethystoglossa) And I had to stress it a lot to the point that the foliage was olive green in color and older leaves almost leathery due to dehydration.

[CVHorticulture]

I would think hardening off earlier in the fall for preparation of a winter rest could be one avenue. Decreasing nitrogen to retard the onset of new succulent growth around the same time should also be considered.
From Dr. Motes;
"Many cattleyas, laelias, oncidiums and phalaenopsis-type dendrobiums will be finishing their growths and should be hardened off with reduced water and fertilizer but not the Spartan regime of the deciduous type. Lower nitrogen fertilizer applied at a lower rate and with less frequency will make these genera happy and prevent them from breaking into unwanted off-season growth that frequently hampers flowering as well. Many growers tend to use higher phosphorus, lower nitrogen fertilizers of the "Bloom Booster" type during the cooler weather. But less frequent applications of the recommended 15-5-15 is a better strategy. These applications should be spaced further apart as well, at ten to twelve day intervals. Less frequent watering will also do for these genera.[......]Fertilizer high in phosphorus may still be of some value at the end of the growing season, perhaps not so much as stimulus as shock. One or two heavy applications in succession, a week or so apart will certainly provide all the phosphorus and all the stimulus(or wake up shock) our plants require to bloom."

[King Kjeldz]

"in the habitat their leaves are protected by a hard resinous coat of lichen which covers the leaf surface"...............hmm interesting....i know this lichen well from seeing wild orchids need very high humidity and dappled light to grow

[CVHorticulture]

Very interesting indeed. Lichen tend to proliferate in dying trees as they have more access to sunlight through defoliation. I imagine C. amethystoglossa already growing on these trees become covered with the lichen as the tree continues to diminish.
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[cdayinflorida]

Jeff, Have you repotted it in the past couple of years? When I moved mine out of a pot into a basket it took about three years for it to rebloom and then only a couple of buds. These darn bifoliates hate change. Be it just moving them around or repotting them.

[tucker85]

I agree, Cathy. Bifolates are very temperamental orchids. This one was repotted two years ago. You might be right about that being the cause for not blooming. I sure would like to see it bloom though.

[cdayinflorida]

I bet that is it then. It is extremely frustrating. That is why I moved mine to a basket so I don't have to do anything to it again...just plunk it into a larger basket when the time comes.