My condo has rough bone dry heat air. I wonder if this is why my phals don't ever spike. Should I attempt to make a humidity tray? Or does that encourage rot?
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My condo has rough bone dry heat air. I wonder if this is why my phals don't ever spike. Should I attempt to make a humidity tray? Or does that encourage rot?

Desiree, I am in Texas, and use humidity trays whenever I bring my orchids in for more than a day. I also try to never place the orchids right where to vent from the air conditioner is blowing right down on them. I have a stand in my breakfast nook, which I place off to the side. This is where I place some of my blooming orchids, plus Phals. which are stressed. I place the stressed Phals. in the tray, and cover loosely with a plastic bag. Hope this helps...Betty in Texas
A humidity tray will not hurt at all, but low humidity may not be the problem. Phal's are encouraged to spike by a temperature/light drop during the off season. Many growers will place their Phal's in a north light, close to the window during the winter to keep them near 60 degrees. That is what I do and it works for me. These are all re-blooms.
The Phals that do not get that treatment usually do not spike consistently or strongly for me.
those are beautiful blooms....since I've moved mine to a brighter, yet, diffused eastern window, my phals have come to life...new growth, new roots..etc. I just re-potted them. So I pulled them away from the window for a little while. Maybe a week or two? I just think they might get to spiking soon, especially maybe if the air quality is a tad more humid..

Yes, I agree about the temperature drop. I'm talking about orchids which are IN THE HOUSE OR APT. not the greenhouse... When I know for sure it's time for an orchid to spike, ( late Fall )I put it on the window ledge and drop the insulated blind behind the plant, so that it gets about a 20 to 25 degree temp. drop at night. I also start giving it a weak ( 1/4 to 1/2 of what is written on the directions) blossom booster, weekly...I personally use 10-30-20. Works like a charm for me! Betty in Texas
99% of the time when a mature preveously bloomed orchid doesn't rebloom it's not enough light. Plants need to be rearanged seasonaly as the sun changes in the sky. the area where you grow your orchid, and where you place it to enjoy the blooms should be 2 different spots. Higher lite and warmer temps prematuely age the flowers.

Well, I assumed that everyone knew that part about the light, Kitty. However, you could give any Phal. the PERFECT amount of light, and without at least a 20 degree temp. drop at night, no orchid/Phal. I've ever had would bloom! But who knows, you may have a new type of orchid; one that will bloom without a drop in temperature at night! If this is so, then I offer you my congradulations! Betty in Texas
The fan is actually beneficial. All plants need some air movement to prevent the air around them from becoming "stale." Also, considering the way orchids grow in their natural environment, they probably appreciate the faux wind more than other plants might.

I concur with your statement about the fan, Jason...That is why the fan in my greenhouse is running 24/7. Actually, I only grow orchids as a hobby, and only bring them into the house when in bloom for family & friends to enjoy. I do have a small stand set up for rescues in the breakfast nook. If next winter is as brutal as the previous one, ALL the orchids may live in the breakfast nook for a while! LOL! Fourteen degrees is a little too low for my greenhouse heater to keep up with...Betty in Texas