Gorgeous blooms, Bob. Will definitely be on the lookout for them. Unfortunately our vendors here have the bad habit of not having any ID of the plants they sell. Thanks for the info.
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Oh, love green flowers. I especially like the lip on the Peterborough.
Gorgeous blooms, Bob. Will definitely be on the lookout for them. Unfortunately our vendors here have the bad habit of not having any ID of the plants they sell. Thanks for the info.
I have a chen's ruby which bloomed for me my first year, then i divided it, since it was bursting out of the pot. Two years later I only have 1 new bulb and no new spikes to show. It's a golden tiger and i love the flowers, though think there must be something I'm "missing". It's in a south facing window and I usually let it approach dryness before watering (soaking). It's in a bark mix and I fertalize once every 3 waterings. Suggestions??
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A few thoughts. First when you divided it did you repot each division (a division should have a min of 3 pseudobulbs) in a pot slightly larger than the division? Second, did you keep the inactive bulbs on or remove them? Each one you remove can be germinated. Third I water about 2x a week. Do not let the roots dry out.. this is something cym growers have to understand. The roots must stay somewhat moist, but not too wet. So I use styrofoam peanuts in the bottom and make sure the bark mix is sufficient size to allow good drainage. Fourth you can fertilize with a weak solution every other week. But be sure you use one with high N for the months from Jan to May and then low N from July to November. Fifth Cyms need LOTS of light. So I'd put them outside in the spring after frost date and allow them to get light at least 4-6 hours a day of direct sun.
Hope that helps. Cyms will grow very rapidly if fed watered and given lots of light.
I've seen in the nursery where one cymbidium actually bloomed, here where the temperature is between 25-33 degree celsius. Here is the pic...
Cymbidium ensifolium [L]Swartz 1799 SECTION Jensoa [Raf.] Schlechter 1924
Cyms here are so expensive and hardly bloom, nobody wants to grow them.
Cheers
Vincent
Orchidpeople - thank you very much! I did keep the inactive bulbs on the divisions, and have 3 inactive bulbs in the division that I was refering to. Would a pot that's too large inhibit growth? I'm wondering if I went too big. From the sounds of it, I need to water more and fertalize more.
The only other question would be about temp. The temp upstairs in our bathroom ranges between 59/60 at night - 65 during the day. I usually move it outdoors in the late spring and keep it out till night temps start hitting the 50's.
Here are some that I own that I think are warm growing, please correct me if I'm wrong; Cym. aloifolium, Cym. aloifolium var. album, Australian Midnight, Malpaso Creek, Peter Pan x suave, Tracey Reddaway 'Geyserland', atropurpureum, canaliculatum var. sparksii, Little Black Sambo, Golden Elf 'Sundust', Meg Lee 'Miss Taipei' or Miss Taipei Unveiled 1, Glady's Whitesell 'The Charmer', Caitlin 'Pink Delight', (Phar Lap x canaliculatum).....there might be more that I can't think of right now.
It would be great if everyone would list their heat tolerant cyms that they are currently growing and blooming.
Golden Elf 'Sundust', Peter Pan, Peter Fire, Valentines Love, Rosy Cloud, Autumn Green, Summer Elf, Golden Apple, Milton Carpenter, madidum, Sticky Business x atropurpureum, Kusuda Swamp, Kusuda Shining, Summer Love, Diane Falk, Peterborough, Willunga Eyecatcher, King Arthur, Maureen Carter, Nut, Street of Gold, Mad Irishman, Gordon Gibbs, Parish Madness, Arts, and some more that I can't think of off hand..
I know a grower specialising in and breeding these warm-tolerant cyms. He used mostly ensifolium and some of the warm-tolerant species in his breeding (canaliculatum and its hybrids, mostly, maddidum etc).