Bllra as I bought it
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Uggghhhh....then should I treat all my plants since they're in close proximity? Can someone recommend a specific product, or will soapy water spray be sufficient? (I'm sorry Matt I had a bit of a difficult time deciphering some of your post).
Both my bllra and brsdm had dark spots on the leaves when I bought them, but the leaves don't seem to be damaged (no indentation) except for the discoloration. It almost looks like freckles. I assumed it was a result of living "outdoors" at the greenhouse where I bought them. These seem to be the only two affected, everyone else is doing just fine. I think I actually posted a photo of the brsdm leaves in an older thread wondering what - if anything - I should do about it. Here's a couple just for reference. Is this all the same affliction? Thanks again for all the help folks!
Older leaves of the brsdm
Newer brsdm leaf
Bllra as I bought it
The very last picture would, from my point of view, initiate a response to mite attack. The outter epidermal layer of the leaf has undergone pest damage and would recommend a systemic fungicide to prevent secondary infection by bad fungal/ bacterial pathogens spiralling out of control. Many plants we buy have the very easy potential for introducing mite infestations, doesnt matter if from auction seller supermarket or specialist nursery.
Safe to say that the risk of other plants becoming contaminated by 1 poor infested cultured plant is highly probable.
Financially variable, a firm wipe with a warm soapy cloth of all leaves including undersides is a good strike and repeat temporarily for regular intervals 4 or 5 day apart. This will help obstruct reproduction cycle as eggs become targetted also.
I do not believe for one minute that spidermites can be removed so easily or infact simply go away. Those tiny white dust particles are old mites coats/ dead cells. Webs appear only in severe infestation and not at all if air is warm/ hot and dry. The webs protect eggs/ young from humidity/ moisture.
Miticide - Forbid 4F product. - advanced mite treatment.
Neem oil - organic, application will suffocate mites - repeat application. Remove plants from sun exposure.
Rose clear ultra - systemic 3 in 1 fungicide/ insecticide.*
*mites are not insects - insecticides useless for mites but still a good care measure nonetheless.
Plant vitality + - marketed as organic, but its not. Uses a good miticide once popular in USA in its mix.
Hope its more clearer. Post not intended as a fear mongering panic. SpiderMites attack plants of any type using many methods to spread plant to plant. Vital they are treated with extreme caution as they will ruin your enjoyment in orchid/ plant cultivation if left to breed.
Thanks very much!! I will get some miticide right away and treat all my plants I very much appreciate your straight forward answers!
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BTW the black spots on the leaves of the oncidiinae family may not be a result of mite attacks.These spots occur quite frequently on the leaves that are exposed to a lot of light. They may be unsightly but do no harm to the plants.
That's kind of what I thought catttan
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I sometimes visit a very good nursery where everything looks clean and healthy, and moreover most of their plants are seed-raised by them from their own mother plants ; they don't just "buy-in" from the plant factories of Holland. Of course they have mostly species rather than hybrids, and incidentally a lot of unusual stuff .
I asked them for advice about spraying and pests and so forth - what did they use ? The remarkable answer was that they don't use anything ; they don't do "routine" spraying.
Why not, says I ?.... The answer - all sprays - insecticides, miticides, fungicides, you-name-it-cides are poisons. Admittedly rather weak ( as compared to what you might put in your rich aunt's tea after she had made a will in your favour,) but poisons nevertheless. If you keep spraying poisons, there must be residue left behind which in the course of time builds up to unhealthy levels. "We ( the proprietors of the nursery) spend a lot of hours in there - working. It's not good to spend time in a poisonous environment."
But don't you ever get pests , says I ? Only when we import plants or bring plants back from a show - they said. Everything coming into the nursery ( plants) even if it is the same plant that went out a week ago , goes into a quarantine house and we watch it very carefully for a month before we return it to the main nursery . If we don't import pests, everything remains clean, the environment is pure, we are all happy.
And btw, spraying a plant with a poison to kill the pests also weakens the plant...our plants look good bevause they are good, and they are neither weakened by pests , nor by anti-pest measures.
A policy of perfection - but personally I take the hint and I don't spray "just in case" - only if there is real need.
Thanks for that Geoff. I will leave my den at home for a bit and watch it closely, but my gut feeling is I won't find anything. I may take a soapy cloth to the leaves but I am concerned about spraying a plant needlessly.
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Last edited by TwoStems; March 8th, 2012 at 06:50 AM.
The oncidium with spots is nothing to really worry about. It simply means your orchid is getting enough light to bloom. The spider mites on the dendrobium can be removed with rubbing alcohol and cotton swabs. Then, remember to keep the humidity up around the orchid and provide good air circulation.
cheers,
BD
The dendrobium orchid looks like it might have mosaic virus. I have had several start expressing it similar to that first pic. I would get a test and test for it.
I have tested all of my orchids for virus about a month ago and have thrown out 4
I do not want diseased orchuds in my collection because it could cause problems down the road. The tests are not that expensive.
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