Challenged Sharon King 'Yuki'

[fbashplant]

I have a Catleya Hybrid rescue that I got from a friend last fall. The potting mixture she had it in was pretty nasty looking so I repotted it and removed all the dead roots back in September. It has been in a mixture of bark and charcoal for a bout five months and has produced very little new growth over that time. Recently the pot it was in tipped over on a windy day and dumped it out along with the medium it was in. It turned out that it was really two plants so I cleaned it up and repotted the two separately in 2 three inch pots in the same kind of mixture. My question is does anyone have an opinion on how best to care for these two youngsters and is there some way to stimulate new root growth. Or should I just relax and be patient.

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[opaline]

Hi Fred. Have seen a fair few catts and laelias in this state, I would certainly say that the pressure is on as the plant is very dehydrated and appears to have drained its storage/ reserves.

High humidity essential and no sun and on cooler side to help plant transpire as liitle water as possible. If you have anything like or near size of a vanda vase, would be good. With some canes and string suspend the plant so its bald base hovers above 1"- 2" of water. the whole plant needs a temporary enclosed humid enviro but room for air to move around. Vanda vase, or clear freezer bag or a 2 ltr pop/ soda bottle. Being bald and dry at its feet it may fight for its life and send out new roots- instinct but also to reach the mini reservoir at the bottom of vase/ or moss if a bag. It will seek a moisture source using its sensors (green tips of roots).

Note, while ferts/tonics/ fungicides etc etc are applied with good intentions the new roots are valueable so lower risk of root burn as green tips will dry, brown and whole root aborted. Roots often show symptoms of toxicity from tap water, fertilizers if not diluted enough.

Often listed under diseases but more an infliction of what we may have done - fusarium wilt - wrinkled. limp thin leaves

[fbashplant]

Thanks Matt. That sounds like very good advice. I can easily make a humidity chamber for each as they are in small pots that would fit inside a large soda bottle. I will keep them in reduced light conditions for a time. I use rain water as I don't trust city water in our area. One never knows what the administration will decide to put in it for our own good. When I fertilize my other orchids I delute to 1/4 strength and use twice a month. Do you think that is OK? I won't fertilize this one until there are signs of new root growth/ recovery. How long do you think it might take to see some root recovery? Thanks again for you good advice.

[opaline]

Yeah! Fred quart strength is quite sufficient - little and often - over feeding is fatal. I personally and just my opinion would suspend bare feet/ rootless ball above a water chamber or pool of water or wad of moss or other improvised water/ humidity chamber without isolating critical area of concern (the bare rootless ball) in bark in pot. At this stage organic media whilst moist will be prolonged exposure to wet for the plant and as its not functioning down there direct contact may encourage rot. That bare feet or rootless ball could be a sitting duck and vulnerable.

Plants can also be staked with varying props just above bark/ media level in pot so direct contact is avoided but high humidity is present in that close vicinity.Could try hormone products such as rooting powders dusted on bare foot, liquids painted on or a full hardcore good old fashioned dunk leaves canes and all, in superthrive diluted in water bath. Some people add beer or honey?

Seaweed extract is one product i rave about and encourages strong healthy growth roots and all.

You will find new roots emerge quite quickly 4-6 weeks depending on season, weather, length of photoperiod, humidity levels. However acclimatizing periods are quite variable so the wait could be much longer. Sooner rather than later is a must for your rescues as they have undergone neglect and its taken its toll.

Tropical aquariums are useful tools if there is sufficient room to nurse plant. warm and humid. If you have a bureau, garage, workstation or office, flourescent tube lights (tropical aquarium aswell) can help support/ sustain plants bio processes.

Tube lights that are white bright whiter than white or cool white emit blue spectrum for plant usage. Blue is used for vegetive growth.

[fbashplant]

Thanks Matt for the very comprehensive reply. I hope that now that day length is increasing there may be some response from these little guys if I can provide the right conditions. I am quite new at orchid growing so I value communication with people like yourself who have some expertise in this. I never thought of an aquarium. Excellent idea.

[GenevaDad]

Seems like a few of us are rescuing Catts lately. Thanks, Fred for asking the question! Thanks a lot Matt for the great reply, explanation!

[Cjcorner]

When I repot and have a section dried out, I put them into a clay pot and sit them under my misting towers. I love the plastic bottle idea...I may have to try that.

[opaline]

If maura sees that i have still not invested in her valuable info on point and shoot cameras instead of using mobile shell go nuts!

Was supposed to do this before for a request and since its a quick easy tool heres 4 pics. The pop bottle chamber.

1 - cut base where curve meet str8 vertical 3 - 4 " up from base (i think but then you know what men are like with inches.)
2 - Wad of media (jute, sphag, knickers) anything that retains moisture as a humidity aid. Up turn severed base and place pad on platform
3 - Length of wire/ string - allocate sufficient for both functional ends. Out of top to hang and down into bottle to suspend helpless victim in space.
4 - Use screw cap to secure.
5 - Dependant on patient either position on moist pad platform or use wire to dangle psb.
6 - Slide/ push base using your palm into bottom of bottle - severed plastic edge maybe sharp.( now the opposite way) You will find it quite tight and secure but wont be 100% water tight.
7 - position warm and shady.

I used to do a superthrive bath with cup full of milk for fungicide and give victim a dunk and soak.
I use systemic fungicide in my care routine now anyway and use seaweed extract to replace superthrive. I find S.Thrive easy to overdose (and i know its commonsense to be more careful but i need to live in a world that screws up on occasion). S.Thrive can distort leaves of catts and laelias and burns roots of most epiphytes esp those thick with velamen. Be warned. I dont even flush mounts now with plain water with seaweed extract.

[GenevaDad]

Great photos, but I got a few questions. I your last pic are you hanging the "victim" psb. down? You say "depending on victim" to determine which way to hang in bottle. What tells you which way to suspend the plant?

[Kassie]

Be warned. I dont even flush mounts now with plain water with seaweed extract.

Matt, can you elaborate on the above? Do you find that seaweed extract is causing problems similar to SuperThrive? I haven't noticed any irregular growth issues with it. The only downside to seaweed I've identified is that it gets gunky if not used the same day, which makes my friend with the automatic injection misting system less thrilled with it than I am.