I've tried threatening it but...

[OrchidTraci]

still no flowers. My Laelia Anceps that is. I surgically removed a couple of the dead PB, kept it in the pot is was in (the roots are attached to the clay pot and other than not bloomimg it seems very happy). There are 2 new growths starting now. I was too afraid to leave it outside for too long, not knowing the lowest temp it could take. I really don't know what else to do. Maybe it is time to trade it for a different plant.

[Gilda]

Traci,(got it right this time)
Try higher light....higher than catts....I successfully bloomed mine growing in the home...but it did summer outside. If it is otherwise healthy ,and large enough to bloom, it has to be the light.

[OrchidTraci]

Traci,(got it right this time)
Try higher light....higher than catts....I successfully bloomed mine growing in the home...but it did summer outside. If it is otherwise healthy ,and large enough to bloom, it has to be the light.

I'm thinking about lowering my hid lights closer to the plants so they can get more light. The edges of the leaves are already burned a little. I guess this type of orchid can't rely on it's looks when it is out of bloom ....

[bench72]

I'm glad I found this thread. I've got a Laelia anceps which I thought was about to flower, ie it had a sheath but then all of a sudden it became a leaf

The plant grows in pure bark, gets morning light, ie till about 9am. I thought that was enough to ensure it doesn't get burnt by the higher light levels... but if it needs a little more then I think I will do the same... and send it to the light!

Do you think that fertilizers might have something to do with it as well? I only use 'worm juice', ie I have a worm composting farm and the liquid that comes out of it is what I use to fertilize... it has done wonders for my tomatoes and native aussie plants... but my orchids

[LJA]

anceps also needs a cool and relatively dry winter rest for it to bloom well, so in addition to increasing the light, cut back on the fertilizer and water for two months in the winter, watering only when the medium in the root zone has dried out. Tim, your plant looks very healthy to me, so it might be a maturity issue as well. I'd be willing to bet that your next growth blooms for you.

Traci, they supposedly can tolerate temps below freezing, but I personally wouldn't try that. Someone on here once mentioned growing orchids with an attitude of "benign neglect," and that's exactly what these need to thrive. Too much futzing, and they tend not to do what they're supposed to do. Let them dry out some before you re-water.

[bench72]

hmmm... too young aye... why do they grow so slowly aaarghhh!!! ok, well, will give it the winter rest and then, it better flower or else... it'll get composted or something crazy like that... or maybe it'll just get put back on the growing bench for next year... or the year after that... *sigh*

[OrchidTraci]

anceps also needs a cool and relatively dry winter rest for it to bloom well, so in addition to increasing the light, cut back on the fertilizer and water for two months in the winter, watering only when the medium in the root zone has dried out. Tim, your plant looks very healthy to me, so it might be a maturity issue as well. I'd be willing to bet that your next growth blooms for you.

Traci, they supposedly can tolerate temps below freezing, but I personally wouldn't try that. Someone on here once mentioned growing orchids with an attitude of "benign neglect," and that's exactly what these need to thrive. Too much futzing, and they tend not to do what they're supposed to do. Let them dry out some before you re-water.

I let it dry out, I guess not long enough though.... As far as neglect, I have been negecting it pretty much and whoa has it been dry, I guess when I least expect it, it will throw out a spike for me. Mt question is-- will it thorw spikes from all of the matures pb or just the newest matured pb? I have been pretty patient with this one, I'm giving it 2 more years, then it will be up for grabs.

[LJA]

Traci, has it bloomed before? If not, you may be growing it just fine and it hasn't reached blooming size yet. Once new growth has started from an old PB, that old PB is not going to bloom. There may be exceptions to that general rule, but I've never seen it here. A growth starts from an eye, matures, and in that same growing year, buds and blooms. After active growth stops, the plant rests for a couple-three months, doing absolutely nothing but sitting there frustrating people, then the cycle starts all over again.

[OrchidTraci]

Traci, has it bloomed before? If not, you may be growing it just fine and it hasn't reached blooming size yet. Once new growth has started from an old PB, that old PB is not going to bloom. There may be exceptions to that general rule, but I've never seen it here. A growth starts from an eye, matures, and in that same growing year, buds and blooms. After active growth stops, the plant rests for a couple-three months, doing absolutely nothing but sitting there frustrating people, then the cycle starts all over again.

I'm actually not to sure if it has bloomed before, it was a plant I won from my local orchid society raffle. Maybe it has been to immature. The last PB seemed to be huge compared to the others, so maybe in a year or two, it will bloom for me.

[LJA]

If the leaf axils (where the leaf joins the pseudobulb) don't have any tough, dried out spike leftovers coming from them where the spikes have been cut off--you can never cut close enough to make them disappear completely--the plant's still a seedling and just hasn't matured enough yet to bloom. Like many standard-sized Catts, Laelias can take 7 or 8 years to go from flask to bloom. Assuming your plant has never been divided, subtract the number of PBs it has from eight, and that's just about how many years you have left to go until it flowers. It may flower sooner for you, but just don't expect it.