Cattleya Hybrids - Blind Sheaths

[mauraec]

I've read on some of the other threads that catts with blind sheaths can fill them with buds at some point - but I have a few that still seem empty after 4 or 5 months. They're still green and healthy looking, but I'm fairly sure there's nothing inside. Is there anything I should be doing to encourage them? A bloom-boosting fertilizer? More light? More water? Less water? (I have a feeling the answer is just to wait and see, but I'd hate to miss an opportunity to learn more about cultivating these monsters.)

Thanks for any help -

Maura

[eorchids]

This could be normal, depending on the parentage of your hybrid.
The large flower Cattleya with autumn/winter rest (trianae, schroederae, lawrenceana, mossiae, mendelii...) and Cattleya (Laelia) from crispae section, fill their (green) sheath after several months. Now, trianae/schroederae are in bloom or with buds in the sheath. Buds will appear in February/March/April for lawrenceana, mossiae, mendelii, purpurata...
Some others fill their sheath when growing the new PB or just after the growth of the new PB (gaskelliana, lueddemanniana, warscewiczii, warneri, rex...). Now at home, new PB begin to grow for gaskelliana, are already well developed for warneri.
The Guarianthe fill their sheath after several months even if the sheath seems to be dried.
In principle, the hybrids are more tolerant. And therefore less sensitive to the lack of respect for the rest period needed for some species.
I hope this help you.

[cdayinflorida]

Eric...that was an excellent response.

[pavel]

And since your dealing with hybrids, no telling when they may finally fill their sheaths. I have an Slc that has had sheaths for about a year, I think. And it is only in the last month or so that it has begun the process of filling them.

[tucker85]

On most cattleya hybrids the sheaths form when the psuedobulbs form. Blooming season could be many months away and you won't see buds in the sheaths until it's time to bloom. There are a few other things to know about sheaths. The fact that a sheath exists does not mean that psuedobulb will bloom. It may or may not. Buds can form in green sheaths or old dried up sheaths. And to make things worse, buds can form on psuedobulbs that have no sheath. Never cut a sheath off until you're absolutely sure that the plant is through blooming. I've had buds form in an old dried out sheath two months after the rest of the plant bloomed. Some catts will only bloom on the very last psuedobulb on the rhizome. Others will bloom on most or all of the years new growths. One thing that can keep a cattleya from blooming is an abundance of nitrogen. So many growers decrease the amount of fertilizer during blooming season or use a low nitrogen fertilizer.

[mauraec]

Thanks so much everyone! Only two of mine are species - a trianae var. alba, and a walkeriana, also var. alba. The rest are hybrids. They're all looking pretty healthy, and as I said, nearly every single one has at least one sheath and not a bud in sight - maybe I should invest in an x-ray machine. They've been getting the weekly/weakly treatment with a balanced fertilizer, so maybe I'll switch to one with lower N. They're all going into S/H in the near future, anyway - I may well be sacrificing buds, but I figure it's better than spending hours watering them (they actually dry out COMPLETELY within 3 days), or having them die on me. And, so far, my orchids in S/H seem to be making the transition well (fingers crossed!).

[mauraec]

Thanks so much everyone! Only two of mine are species - a trianae var. alba, and a walkeriana, also var. alba. The rest are hybrids. They're all looking pretty healthy, and as I said, nearly every single one has at least one sheath and not a bud in sight - maybe I should invest in an x-ray machine. They've been getting the weekly/weakly treatment with a balanced fertilizer, so maybe I'll switch to one with lower N. They're all going into S/H in the near future, anyway - I may well be sacrificing buds, but I figure it's better than spending hours watering them (they actually dry out COMPLETELY within 3 days), or having them die on me. And, so far, my orchids in S/H seem to be making the transition well (fingers crossed!).

[tucker85]

Thanks so much everyone! Only two of mine are species - a trianae var. alba, and a walkeriana, also var. alba. The rest are hybrids. They're all looking pretty healthy, and as I said, nearly every single one has at least one sheath and not a bud in sight - maybe I should invest in an x-ray machine. They've been getting the weekly/weakly treatment with a balanced fertilizer, so maybe I'll switch to one with lower N. They're all going into S/H in the near future, anyway - I may well be sacrificing buds, but I figure it's better than spending hours watering them (they actually dry out COMPLETELY within 3 days), or having them die on me. And, so far, my orchids in S/H seem to be making the transition well (fingers crossed!).

It's not really necessary to buy a new fertilizer. To decrease the nitrogen that the plant is getting just use the same fertilizer strength but fertilize every two weeks instead of each week. That will cut the avaiable nitrogen in half. In the spring, when the growing season starts, you'll want to be using your normally fertilizer routine.

[Halloamey]

It's not really necessary to buy a new fertilizer. To decrease the nitrogen that the plant is getting just use the same fertilizer strength but fertilize every two weeks instead of each week. That will cut the avaiable nitrogen in half. In the spring, when the growing season starts, you'll want to be using your normally fertilizer routine.

But this way you also reduce the amount of Potassium and Phosphorus you give to the plants. If the plants are in an organic compost then it will be ok as most media will have enough P and K, but if they are in rather inorganic media then it will be best to use a low N high P and K fertilizer. High K does affect bloom quality and number.

[mauraec]

High K does affect bloom quality and number.

Thanks, Amey - I assume you mean negatively? Also, most of my orchids are either in, or going in, to S/H strictly with clay aggregate - what balance and strength of fertilizer/nutrients would you suggest? What do you think of adding superthrive to their feeding schedule? This is my first foray into semi-hydro, but so far it's going well, and I like the concept of not being able to overwater the plants.